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Old 07-10-2013, 05:55 PM   #11596
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I have a rtr and i am trying to get alot more steering out of it. light on power steering is about a 6 to 8 foot turning radius. I have the stock setup with the front 1.5x2 35wt losi hole up front, 1.5x3 30wt hole in the rear, 20 gram exotek weight under the servo.Ive tried ball diff to see if helps but about the same as gear diff. Ive tried shorty and long packs all the way to the servo. Running indoor in clay. Ribs gave the most steering and rears had hole shots, and suburbs. Is there a setup to start with that gives more steering.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:26 PM   #11597
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Hi,

Exotek caps are designed with an internal ball radius so they mount right up to the stock shock mounts or aftermarket shock mounts;



FYI- new carbon +8mm chassis is in stock!

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-8...n-chassis-set/

Thanks!

Yeah the Exotek caps are sweet. I'm running them with the Lunsford titaniums with great results. The chassis looks awesome. Definitely going to pick one up.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:00 PM   #11598
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I guess there is no factory or after market DEX210 sway / anti-roll bar as of yet. Tried looking for them online. Only ones are custom made by individual users. Anyone know?
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:54 AM   #11599
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Hi,

FYI- new carbon +8mm chassis is in stock!

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-8...n-chassis-set/

Thanks!

Wow! Nice Mike! Best price compared to all the others out there too! Exotek FTW!
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:08 AM   #11600
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Wow! Nice Mike! Best price compared to all the others out there too! Exotek FTW!
Best price but I think the RDRP is the better value. Like the CF look but don't like th front kickup.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:16 AM   #11601
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Best price but I think the RDRP is the better value. Like the CF look but don't like th front kickup.
I would be concerned about the front kick up on it as well, my RDP came in yesterday, just need to build it up. The CF one would be great for indoors or a track that is not abrasive but I prefer the alum ones.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:17 AM   #11602
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Default Aluminum Servo Horn?

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We run the aluminum servo arm off of the TLR 22 as I have not yet seen the TD arm yet. If you have a quality metal gear servo the bellcranks will break before the servo breaks. But of course the simple solution is to not crash... if only it were that easy.
Has anyone tried any of the other aluminum servo horns out there? Ofna has one that is clamping style. Seems the offset may be a little different however.
Thanks for the help in advanced!

Dave
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:12 PM   #11603
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Has anyone tried any of the other aluminum servo horns out there? Ofna has one that is clamping style. Seems the offset may be a little different however.
Thanks for the help in advanced!

Dave
THe Losi one is nice for the 22 because it is almost identical to the stock Durango plastic servo horn so it makes it a great fit. You will need a horn that is not much longer than stock or it won't fit. Once of the Duratrax aluminum arms could fit but you may have to sand it down a but if its too long.

Best thing about the Losi is it already has the angle bent into the servo arm just like the Durango. Also works great on the B4.1 and B4.2. Also used it on my Tamiya TRF201.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:34 PM   #11604
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Originally Posted by EvanAZ View Post
I would be concerned about the front kick up on it as well, my RDP came in yesterday, just need to build it up. The CF one would be great for indoors or a track that is not abrasive but I prefer the alum ones.
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Best price but I think the RDRP is the better value. Like the CF look but don't like th front kickup.
Concerned with what on the alloy front kick up?
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:36 PM   #11605
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Concerned with what on the alloy front kick up?
I actually thought it was plastic. Alloy makes sense but I still don't like it being separate. Just personal preference.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:11 PM   #11606
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Originally Posted by Cspencer225 View Post
I have a rtr and i am trying to get alot more steering out of it. light on power steering is about a 6 to 8 foot turning radius. I have the stock setup with the front 1.5x2 35wt losi hole up front, 1.5x3 30wt hole in the rear, 20 gram exotek weight under the servo.Ive tried ball diff to see if helps but about the same as gear diff. Ive tried shorty and long packs all the way to the servo. Running indoor in clay. Ribs gave the most steering and rears had hole shots, and suburbs. Is there a setup to start with that gives more steering.
Here is my setup, its a easy drive setup for indoor clay. Tires are the most important. Up front I like scurbs when i need more steering, Suburbs when i need a relaxed steering feel. Rear i use Suburb and if i need a less grip I run suburb slicks.

Most of the time if you have a issue with not enough on power steering its because you have to much rear traction. Easy steps to try to gain more on power are: Moving your rear hubs back, Lowering your inside camber link down are easy ways to gain more steering.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:25 PM   #11607
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Here's a quick video I took today of my buggy in mm4 config on a very bumpy and loose/dusty track. Despite being so rough and loose, the car drove and handled very well (except for it wanting to nose dive on jumps, as you can see). It tracked straight, the back end felt very planted and confident, and jumped very nicely (again, except for the slight nose diving). I am running a gear diff, too!

I was able to put down times 1-1.5 seconds faster than in my rear motor rc10t3 that I had raced the week before, and the track was in better condition when I ran the t3! Later on after this video was recorded I was able to nail the triple a few times. I thought rear motor was supposed to be faster on this type of track

I'll be racing it tomorrow on a slightly smoother and higher bite track that I have also previously raced my t3. It will be interesting to see how my lap times compare at that track, too. The following week I'll have a new dimec20 +8 type b chassis on the car as well (right now it is a standard chassis).

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:30 PM   #11608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiseRC View Post
Easy steps to try to gain more on power are: Moving your rear hubs back, Lowering your inside camber link down are easy ways to gain more steering.
You want to move your hubs up and shorten your wheelbase for more on power traction.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:52 PM   #11609
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looking for a little advice guys. I currently have a 22 and I'm looking for some input of of what the handling characteristic between the two are. No matter what I do with the losi it just doesn't feel right to me, and frankly it's getting a little annoying to me. Thank you in advance.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:16 AM   #11610
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Quote:
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You want to move your hubs up and shorten your wheelbase for more on power traction.
Actually, he is trying to lose rear traction and gain steering, so the statement is correct.
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