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Old 06-21-2013, 10:31 AM   #11446
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I know with my 210 if i over tighten the gear box screws it binds a little. i did notice tho is that my buddy's desc210 gear box was different cause i tightened the screws down a lot more that mine and it was still free.
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:46 PM   #11447
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I know with my 210 if i over tighten the gear box screws it binds a little. i did notice tho is that my buddy's desc210 gear box was different cause i tightened the screws down a lot more that mine and it was still free.
I have the same problem on the DEST210/DESC210. All three us the samw gearbox. Maybe he added a washer or two for the screws. Just use threadlock and don't over tighten.
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:47 PM   #11448
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Posted some thoughts on the new chassis over in the DESC210 thread. I'm running +10 aluminum and I'm not switching.

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Old 06-21-2013, 01:41 PM   #11449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shagino View Post
I have the same problem on the DEST210/DESC210. All three us the samw gearbox. Maybe he added a washer or two for the screws. Just use threadlock and don't over tighten.
I think I was lucky as I tightened mine up pretty tight and no binding.
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:02 PM   #11450
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Sometimes not everything is lined up in the gear box, the pins and bearings need to "seat" after assembling the gearbox spin the spur an lightly tap the outside of the case, this will "help" free up the tranny.
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:55 PM   #11451
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Originally Posted by AmiSMB View Post
It would seem you have a problem on your top layshaft. Check to see if the heads of the screws that go all the way through the gearbox are protruding past the motor plate. These screws should have thread lock on them and only done up finger tight so that the head of the screw just mates up with the plastic on the outer of the gear box casing. Next check the aluminium spacer. Durango made a running change to a hard anodised one. The original one which I have is not and when you tighten the slipper the spacer ends up riding up the layshaft where the gear should be binding the shaft. I dremeled mine down and placed a 8th clutch shim either side. Make sure that there is a 3mm washer at the end of the layshaft before the spring goes on as if this is missing the spring will bind up against the bearing. You also need to check the inner slipper plate and see if it is binding on the motor plate and if it is you will need to place an 8th clutch shim after the bearing before the inner slipper plate. I use AE slipper pads as well as they are thicker than the Durango ones but make sure that they are inserted so that they are flat in the spur otherwise when the spur gets hot the spur will move and then strip. When you have the gearbox and slipper built make sure that there is a very slight amount of play in the shaft which should exist even when you tighten up the slipper nut. I put a 2mm washer after the spring and before the nut as well. Hope that helps.

No worries, thanks mate. I'll start pulling it apart and sorting it out. I guess I was hoping it would be something simple like a screw over tightened or something like that.

I'll keep you posted as to how I go with it. Thanks heaps though I really appreciate the help. I haven't even had a chance to drive this thing yet. I can't wait.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:58 PM   #11452
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What brand are you guys using?
Sorry for the delay dude...i use dubro its around 50 bux to outfit the whole car
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:03 PM   #11453
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I was having tons of bump-steer on my 210. Wasn't sure at all how to alter that (be nice to have some info in the manual; have any of you seen the Schumacher manuals, they have a huge tuning section specific to the car at the end?).

Anyways, tried this:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...erElimination/

No luck with the stock set-up, still waaaaay too much with my 20 degrees of caster.

Tried the original RDRP steering rack; still tones of bump-steer, but I really didn't expect a change as it is the same as stock but doesn't suck (cheap plastic vs aluminum).

I tried the RDRP R2 rack; still tones (which, I read "does away with the need to use countless shims on the outer steering blocks in order to achieve zero bump steer"). I found the opposite. Plus, if I read this right, I loose A LOT of adjust ability:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

Seems like wasted money (although, they say 25 degrees plus in their write-up vs my 20 deg.; I also want to add that it is the first item I've bought from RDRP that I didn't dig).

Now, from playing with every adjustment I could conceive, I found that zero washers on the steering arm (on the wheel end), and a 3mm washer between the ball-stud and the original RDRP steering plate has given me the least amount of bump-steer with 20 degrees of caster. Very little, but just/still a bit.

Am I doing something wrong; should other adjustments deliver different results? I wonder as most set-ups on Petit-RC show cars with 4-5mm spacers on the steering-arms (I tried this and found awful amounts of bump-steer - although I will say that most use 25-30 degrees of caster).

Love to hear your thoughts!
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:36 PM   #11454
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I've always used Capt.America's bumpsteer elimination mod, only my own version with only 1mm under the steering rack pivot arms and 2mm under the steering rack ball studs. That way it was 2mm outer and inner underneath the ballstuds. I would imagine if you try that, but use no shims on the outer steering knuckles that should be the correct formula to eliminate the bump steer for 20 caster.

Here's the post I posted back in December showing how it should look.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:48 PM   #11455
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Built up a new kit with the DIMEC20 "B" chassis along with the upgraded parts that go along with. Looks like there was a running change to the ball studs and ball cups. The ball studs look diff and the call cups seem to be made of a harder material as they hard to get on. Don't remember them being that difficult...
Ran today at my local track. Had no durability issues. Car handled well. started out 1.3x4 pistons all around, but found the rear too soft so went to 1.2x4. Was working with shock oil and found losi 32.5 fr/30 rr to feel pretty good.
Will hit up Factory tracks series next weekend at Stateline raceway. Gonna be a good one.

Off to build up the DESC210R kit with the upgraded chassis...

Last edited by kwiksi; 06-22-2013 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:20 PM   #11456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
I've always used Capt.America's bumpsteer elimination mod, only my own version with only 1mm under the steering rack pivot arms and 2mm under the steering rack ball studs. That way it was 2mm outer and inner underneath the ballstuds. I would imagine if you try that, but use no shims on the outer steering knuckles that should be the correct formula to eliminate the bump steer for 20 caster.

Here's the post I posted back in December showing how it should look.
Thanks a bunch, I'll look into that!
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:29 PM   #11457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerCow View Post
I was having tons of bump-steer on my 210. Wasn't sure at all how to alter that (be nice to have some info in the manual; have any of you seen the Schumacher manuals, they have a huge tuning section specific to the car at the end?).

Anyways, tried this:

%!$@#

No luck with the stock set-up, still waaaaay too much with my 20 degrees of caster.

Tried the original RDRP steering rack; still tones of bump-steer, but I really didn't expect a change as it is the same as stock but doesn't suck (cheap plastic vs aluminum).

I tried the RDRP R2 rack; still tones (which, I read "does away with the need to use countless shims on the outer steering blocks in order to achieve zero bump steer"). I found the opposite. Plus, if I read this right, I loose A LOT of adjust ability:

@#!$@

Seems like wasted money (although, they say 25 degrees plus in their write-up vs my 20 deg.; I also want to add that it is the first item I've bought from RDRP that I didn't dig).

Now, from playing with every adjustment I could conceive, I found that zero washers on the steering arm (on the wheel end), and a 3mm washer between the ball-stud and the original RDRP steering plate has given me the least amount of bump-steer with 20 degrees of caster. Very little, but just/still a bit.

Am I doing something wrong; should other adjustments deliver different results? I wonder as most set-ups on Petit-RC show cars with 4-5mm spacers on the steering-arms (I tried this and found awful amounts of bump-steer - although I will say that most use 25-30 degrees of caster).

Love to hear your thoughts!
Hmmmmmm

Well thanks Mr Cow

As to my prior question regarding the RD2 rack, seems I was running the ball cups to the rear rather than to the front as shown on FB. I'll have to switch this around and give it another shot.

Matt
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:12 PM   #11458
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A very good day at the track
The fastest guys were driving 2wd and the B4.2 is supposed to be the fastest chassis at our track, dusty low grip, but my dex210 easily matched them for grip and phase.
Just saying
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:32 PM   #11459
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Any of you guys run into any problems with your motor wire routing when using a c/f rear shock mount? I am running the standard body and my motor wires seem to be holding the body up. I can push it down to get the body clip in but was just a little concerned.
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:04 PM   #11460
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Default Found out a little something last night

I ran my car with the shortest wheelbase possible...i.e stock metal chassis and hubs as short as they can go and WOW my dex was amazing except for a broken hub and ball stud(it is a Durango) any way this is all on a outdoor 1/8th scale nitro track that is BIG....just though I'd let you all know. I see a lot of talk about huge wheelbase on these cars. Give it a try
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