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Old 06-13-2013, 11:57 AM   #11401
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Originally Posted by Raul Garcia View Post
Ok so I installed my new chassis on my SC. It was super dialed everything worked great. Youare able to ccontinue to use the original RF mount if you have a alloy one, bit the RR block has to be modified to use if you want alloy ones to fit. The front bulkhead must use the new plastic ones. The truck drove better that ever last night. For those who are using the +8 plastic chassis you wont be disappointed.

Go to your local hobby shop to order the parts, they will have a GP dealer account, and they can find the parts.
Good news! At least I have options Thanks
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:16 PM   #11402
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All attached!





Shown with the stock body, fits well enough but may need something new...
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:42 PM   #11403
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Which one? The original or the r2 plate? Looks like the r2 plate was designed to be run with no washers under the steering block ball studs. Perhaps that is your problem? If you're running an original style plate did you make sure to use the same ackerman position? (I know, stupid question, but needs to be asked anyway).
It was the R2 steering plate which changes the ball cups to the rear or side of the mount (if that is how you would describe it).

Hard to diagnose with limited info. I haven't had the chance to take it all apart to see what may be wrong. Just thought I would throw it out there to see if it was a common problem.

Thanks for the input

Matt
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:12 AM   #11404
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I have my Durango all ready. Just putting in esc tonight and will get the diff broke in some and then run a few laps to see what I need to adjust.

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Old 06-14-2013, 04:37 PM   #11405
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Looking at your rear motor makes me want to try it out, looks more balanced than mm.
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Old 06-15-2013, 03:56 AM   #11406
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Nice buggy wyd! I really like the way the shocks look with those gunmetal grey STRC parts. Can't wait for you to beat me with it!
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Old 06-15-2013, 04:56 PM   #11407
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Looking for some gearing advice. Running a 210 kit with a murfdog 8.5T on a medium size track.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:59 PM   #11408
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One more question. if you had $50.00 to spend on hop ups what would it be? I already have the front and rear cf shock towers,cf ackerman plate,cf battery strap, 12mm rear hex conversion,alum chassis and +8 chassis,lunsford ti tierods and ball ends, and a huge assortment of tires. What would you get next?
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:19 PM   #11409
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Originally Posted by durangoman View Post
One more question. if you had $50.00 to spend on hop ups what would it be? I already have the front and rear cf shock towers,cf ackerman plate,cf battery strap, 12mm rear hex conversion,alum chassis and +8 chassis,lunsford ti tierods and ball ends, and a huge assortment of tires. What would you get next?
get some good tires, I do recommend rear 12mm hex, some pre-mounted aka tires are cheaper than glue them yourselves.
rebuild the car and put on a good setup.

Finally got some good new tires this weekend, pretty much stock kit version, using gear diff because I know the track very well. No CF upgrades, no +8mm chassis, no lunsford rods. (previous owner put on kyosho ball cup and ball stud though).
Car's performing really good in the small indoor track, easy to kick the tail out, predictable when tail sliding.
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Old 06-16-2013, 04:29 AM   #11410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durangoman View Post
Looking for some gearing advice. Running a 210 kit with a murfdog 8.5T on a medium size track.
I've used 81/24 in the past. Ditch the kit 87T spur and get smaller ones if you haven't already. Avid just released their Triad conversion. Which is what I will be using.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:47 AM   #11411
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Nice buggy wyd! I really like the way the shocks look with those gunmetal grey STRC parts. Can't wait for you to beat me with it!
Thanks. I like the Gun Metal as well. I did do a few laps and at least to start out its not bad. Learning new car, new tires, new speedo and soon to be new motor and new tapered pistons to try. Overall I think its a very nice car.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:10 AM   #11412
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Was messing around with the front of my dex this morning. Had the front of my b4.2 apart already...so...
Just about bolt in. I just had to drill out the AE mounting hole to 3mm thus ruining the arms..(putting carbon arms on the b4.2 anyway).

Was wondering what the more experienced suspension dynamic guys thought of this.
The only major geometry differences I could see was knuckle outer ballcup height (its about 2mm lower on the ae knuckle). I was able to get the car shimmed enough to get zero compressed bump-steer..but I get some toe out when the front is lifted (full droop). Not sure what adjustment would help with this.

I run on high traction carpet and generally run ride height lower than 21mm. I was wondering if the non "gull wing" front arms would be of any advantage when running low ride height.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:14 PM   #11413
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Did get to run a few packs tonight. I can say I guess I did the tie rods right as I did take a nasty tumble at high speed tonight and the ball cup didn't pop pff and nothing broke. My STRC 4mm towers help up like a champ against out super hard packed clay. Must of tumbled 8 to 10 times down the damn back stretch. Slight error on my part. My new tires still need a few more runs to break them in but when I put on a used set in the rear the traction came right up so I know I just need to get the new stuff broken in some so no major changes for now.
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:13 PM   #11414
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would 87/18 or 17 work for gearing?
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:20 PM   #11415
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would 87/18 or 17 work for gearing?
Depends on mod or stock.
I run 17.5 blinky and in my dest 78/26 is good and in my dex I ran 72/33 it ran great and was about 150* full can boost 7min main and about 1min practice laps.
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