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Old 06-07-2013, 04:08 PM   #11326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shagino View Post
Nice! You might not need it but watch this before building the diff.

http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...rticle_id=4771
Thanks. I did check it out today before I built mine. Went together very easily. Don't want to have to take it apart for awhile because damn did Durango over due it with the amount of screws holding it all together thats for sure. Overall the car built well. Just finishing up shocks now. Will need to get some different pistons but for now I used the kit ones and closed off 2 holes for the setup I wanted.
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:22 PM   #11327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekt View Post
4mm of spacers under the ballstud give the same height as the plastic piece, for heights under 3mm you'll need to cut down the ballstud
Awesome. Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:23 PM   #11328
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Originally Posted by wyd View Post
Thanks. I did check it out today before I built mine. Went together very easily. Don't want to have to take it apart for awhile because damn did Durango over due it with the amount of screws holding it all together thats for sure. Overall the car built well. Just finishing up shocks now. Will need to get some different pistons but for now I used the kit ones and closed off 2 holes for the setup I wanted.
If it's not fully together, do the bfast break in.

B-FAST R/C PERFORMANCE
Differential Break-In Procedure
1) Clean all parts and work area

2) Follow owner’s manual for assembly instructions

3) Lightly Coat Diff Balls with B-Fast Pro Diff lube, thoroughly lube Thrust Bearing with
B-Fast Pro Thrust grease. (or equivalent)

4) Snug diff screw just until gear will not turn while outdrives are held.

5) Hold one outdrive from spinning, a hex wrench that fits into the outdrive slot, clamped to your bench or in a vise works good.

6) Use a power drill or Dremel (the cone shaped cotton polishing tip works great) to spin the diff for about 20 seconds (HIGH rpm on drill, LOW on Dremel). Reverse rotation for another 20 seconds.

7) Tighten diff screw about 1/16 of a turn and repeat step 6

8) Repeat step 7 at least two more times.

Follow owner’s manual to set slipper
Slipper should slip BEFORE the diff
Do Not let the Diff Slip at anytime!!
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:48 PM   #11329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulepic View Post
I run a viper vtx10r w/ the viper 17.5 and love it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
You can change the timing on the Speed Passion Cirtix ESC that it comes with. Just have to buy the program card.

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...ay27th2010.pdf

http://www.speedpassion.net/eu/produ...PESCPB01&c=OPT

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Programing-Box
Thanks guys, I'll do some investigation. Cheers.
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:56 PM   #11330
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Originally Posted by Heavy B View Post
I recently picked-up a pair of TD vented slipper disks. Upon installation, I think the groove to seat the top shaft pin in is machined too deep. I cannot get the slipper to tighten. I think it's the groove because if I shift the roll pin so it does not seat in the groove I can get it to tighten properly.

Has anyone ran into this issue? I am going to email support for replacement, but I thought I'd ask in case it's operator error.
I've had this issue too, placing a shim on the layshaft before putting on the slipper plates fixed it.
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:11 PM   #11331
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Check it out guys, new chassis available with improved strength and better flex characteristics: http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD320229

It's been hard to stay tight lipped about this to say the least, but the new chassis' are really, really good.

Link updated guys. Sorry bout that!
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Last edited by Jonny5; 06-08-2013 at 06:44 AM.
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:33 PM   #11332
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bad link try again...
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:52 PM   #11333
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bad link try again...
its on the front page of team-durango.com
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:51 PM   #11334
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I added a 110 gram lead sheet under the battery and it handles great! I picked up some lead sheets off ebay to see what it would handle like and will find out more tomorrow at the track. I got enough sheets to do 30 cars or more.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:53 PM   #11335
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Lutz and any other team drivers using the new chassis at the Worlds Warmup?
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:28 PM   #11336
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DIMEC #TD320229 - http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD320229
DIMEC20 #TD320247 - http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD320247
There are pictures of the reinforced areas of the chassis on each of the pages.
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:31 AM   #11337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
Check it out guys, new chassis available with improved strength and better flex characteristics: http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD320231

It's been hard to stay tight lipped about this to say the least, but the new chassis' are really, really good.
Does anyone know if the Alum. bulkhead (Tresery/Exotec) fits on the new chassis?
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Old 06-08-2013, 04:24 AM   #11338
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Originally Posted by glenng View Post
its on the front page of team-durango.com
I know I was just being lazy...wish I knew that before my dimec 20 came off back order...oh well guess ill get this one too
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:06 AM   #11339
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Is that 330599 -2 rear block new?
Must have missed it...
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:14 AM   #11340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellvis View Post
Looking for some motor-esc advice.

Just grabbed the DEX210 RTR and ran it at WCRC in La Mirada. Not impressed with the Speed Passions RTR setup. Looking for more speed and punch.
Running 2cell 5000mah 40c Lipos and would like to keep up with the other guys.

Also looking for a different body then the cab forward one that came with it. Bought the DEX210 kit body and it does not fit since its a different chassis.
Any advice?

Cheers
Hey Bellvis. I was in the same boat. I didnt want to pop for a new motor/ESC combo so I picked up a Reedy sonic 9.5. running between 24 -25 pinion and it works perfect. The stock speed passion ESC will run down to a 9.5 and as of yet I have no problems. I run 6800 70c trak power packs and no thermal shut down
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