Durango DEX210 Thread
What chassis is that.. Is anybody making a +8 alum chassis ?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
Last edited by shagino; 05-28-2013 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Added link
So I'll be getting a wrap for my buggy done by Mick at rctagz.com, so if anyone wants a wrap for there buggy, we'll have the die lines for the durango +8mm body in the near future. A local has one of his wraps already and it looks like good stuff, I look forward to getting mine in the near future (well, probably end of June as he needs a body to copy and that won't be in for another couple weeks)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Which 12mm hex I can use for the rear of the DEX210?
Buy the SC10 hex adapters and use the thicker of the 4. Sand off a bit of the raised end till the hex sits nicely on the pin without excessively rubbing on the bearing - it isn't quite flush, but pretty close.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
If anybody has an extra stock aluminum chassis they want to sell off on the cheap...shoot me a pm. I see they are still readily available...but if you have one sitting around I could use one.
I have been using the avid 12mm hexes. This pack has two wide and two narrow hexes another option for track width.
Set up questions
Hello All !!!! My first post. I'm sure this is a repost but really 780 pages??? Moderaters can you say sub folders??
Anywho's not to get off on the wrong foot.
I have a kit verson DEX210 w/Viper VTX10 - 13.5
Outta of the box stock settings, front end pushed so bad it wasn't even fun to drive. shocks 35F 30R, AKA Rebars F/R, standard battery all the way forward, RM3.
Added 27g weight to the front, changed front tires to PL Ribbed. Better, drivable now. Front caster 35* w/ 3mm trailing. Rear is stock. With this change noticed some front tire wear to the inner ribs of tire.
I'm looking for more off power front steering and turning radius. I run a small indoor clay track that can be a little bumpy with marbles as it dries. I also have a large outdoor track with regular dirt which is dusty and slick without water. How different is the setup going to be for the two tracks?
I was pondering the +11 chassis, switching the rear shocks to the rear (Mod).
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Anywho's not to get off on the wrong foot.
I have a kit verson DEX210 w/Viper VTX10 - 13.5
Outta of the box stock settings, front end pushed so bad it wasn't even fun to drive. shocks 35F 30R, AKA Rebars F/R, standard battery all the way forward, RM3.
Added 27g weight to the front, changed front tires to PL Ribbed. Better, drivable now. Front caster 35* w/ 3mm trailing. Rear is stock. With this change noticed some front tire wear to the inner ribs of tire.
I'm looking for more off power front steering and turning radius. I run a small indoor clay track that can be a little bumpy with marbles as it dries. I also have a large outdoor track with regular dirt which is dusty and slick without water. How different is the setup going to be for the two tracks?
I was pondering the +11 chassis, switching the rear shocks to the rear (Mod).
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Hello All !!!! My first post. I'm sure this is a repost but really 780 pages??? Moderaters can you say sub folders??
Anywho's not to get off on the wrong foot.
I have a kit verson DEX210 w/Viper VTX10 - 13.5
Outta of the box stock settings, front end pushed so bad it wasn't even fun to drive. shocks 35F 30R, AKA Rebars F/R, standard battery all the way forward, RM3.
Added 27g weight to the front, changed front tires to PL Ribbed. Better, drivable now. Front caster 35* w/ 3mm trailing. Rear is stock. With this change noticed some front tire wear to the inner ribs of tire.
I'm looking for more off power front steering and turning radius. I run a small indoor clay track that can be a little bumpy with marbles as it dries. I also have a large outdoor track with regular dirt which is dusty and slick without water. How different is the setup going to be for the two tracks?
I was pondering the +11 chassis, switching the rear shocks to the rear (Mod).
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Anywho's not to get off on the wrong foot.
I have a kit verson DEX210 w/Viper VTX10 - 13.5
Outta of the box stock settings, front end pushed so bad it wasn't even fun to drive. shocks 35F 30R, AKA Rebars F/R, standard battery all the way forward, RM3.
Added 27g weight to the front, changed front tires to PL Ribbed. Better, drivable now. Front caster 35* w/ 3mm trailing. Rear is stock. With this change noticed some front tire wear to the inner ribs of tire.
I'm looking for more off power front steering and turning radius. I run a small indoor clay track that can be a little bumpy with marbles as it dries. I also have a large outdoor track with regular dirt which is dusty and slick without water. How different is the setup going to be for the two tracks?
I was pondering the +11 chassis, switching the rear shocks to the rear (Mod).
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
what tracks do you race at if you dont mind? someone may be able to help with setup if they are familiar with your specific track. tire choice sounds like it could be most significant change between the 2 track surfaces.
also when you change caster, you should check your bump steer up front as it will change if you dont add/subtract spacers to outside steering link. more caster requires more spacing between ballstud and knuckle since the increase in caster drops ball stud down some. that could have caused your inner fronts to wear possibly depending on how you were setup or maybe the caster and 3mm trailing changes slightly altered your camber settings so maybe double-check camber with a gauge after making front end adjustments especially when the c hub location changes from trailing axle adjustments.
also, rdrp makes a new steering plate (r2) which changes the position of inner steering link attachment. i havent played with mine much but it may be worth looking into to see how it alters steering radius and off power steering.
also you can increase off-power steering by increasing droop up front.
hopefully some of these suggestions can help you out a bit.
Last edited by glenng; 05-29-2013 at 05:58 AM. Reason: adding another suggestion
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
I've been using a 4mm lowered rear tower on the buggy, pretty nice. Seems to be more stable over bumps and jumps and IMO easier to drive.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)