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Old 05-22-2013, 03:35 PM   #11191
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I hate to ask again, but, can the stadium truck chassis fit this, and would it help?
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:29 PM   #11192
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I hate to ask again, but, can the stadium truck chassis fit this, and would it help?
it would bolt up if you found a body to fit... but why? Get one of the available +8 +10's out there already.. stick w/ the aluminum as well iMO. I like them better in all conditions.. just my 2c though
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:50 PM   #11193
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I hate to ask again, but, can the stadium truck chassis fit this, and would it help?
I have used the truck chassis on my 210. I used a modified +8 body. The car was too long it didnt drive very well.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:32 AM   #11194
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Default +8 Chassis

Hey to all, Can anyone verify if the RTR comes with the +8 chassis already installed. I watched some video review and the guy says it comes with the +8 on it? Also,If you go to the Durango site and look up standard replacement parts it does not show the stock chassis # that is in the manual, only the +8?? I recently picked up the RTR and dropped a Reedy Sonic 9.5 in it, did my set up and and I'm having a blast with it. Takes me back to 84 when I used to race the gold pan RC10!
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:36 AM   #11195
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Hey to all, Can anyone verify if the RTR comes with the +8 chassis already installed. I watched some video review and the guy says it comes with the
+8 on it? Also,If you go to the Durango site and look up standard replacement parts it does not show the stock chassis # that is in the manual, only the +8?? I recently picked up the RTR and dropped a Reedy Sonic 9.5 in it, did my set up and and I'm having a blast with it. Takes me back to 84 when I used to race the gold pan RC10!
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yes the RTR has the +8 chassis.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:39 AM   #11196
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yes the RTR has the +8 chassis.
Thanks for the info! Really like the way this buggy works
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:40 AM   #11197
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If any of you guys are having trouble with breaking the ears on your tranny case that hold the ball stud, check out my brace. Haven't broke one since. Works on all configurations. Fits under the inner ball stud. 1.4mm thick. Braces and skids

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Old 05-23-2013, 08:53 AM   #11198
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Just ordered one! Thanks!

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Originally Posted by honda_stuntboy View Post
If any of you guys are having trouble with breaking the ears on your tranny case that hold the ball stud, check out my brace. Haven't broke one since. Works on all configurations. Fits under the inner ball stud. 1.4mm thick. Braces and skids

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Old 05-23-2013, 07:50 PM   #11199
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If any of you guys are having trouble with breaking the ears on your tranny case that hold the ball stud, check out my brace. Haven't broke one since. Works on all configurations. Fits under the inner ball stud. 1.4mm thick. Braces and skids


You should make that with a weight kit or make it in a few weights... just a thought
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:37 PM   #11200
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Have not seen much talk about the dual tapered pistons, but I have been running them on a few different tracks and I'm sold on them! I got the 4x1.0 pistons and I kept my entire setup the same aside from
: front pistons were stock 4x1.3, switched to 4x1.2 Dual tapered
: rear pistons were stock 4x1.4, switched to 4x1.3 Dual tapered

My buggy has more pack and lands better, but feels ultra glued to the track. I have better exit steering now, the rear rotates like a dream and squares up as soon as I punch the throttle coming out of the corner. I had a really great setup prior to the piston change, but wanted more pack without sacrificing rear sidebite/roll. I switched to the 2x1.6 pistons but my buggy seemed lazier and didn't change directions as aggresively without trying to wash out. I am really happy with the DS pistons and plan to put them in my DESC210 as well. Hoping for the same results.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:42 PM   #11201
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Originally Posted by nismomike View Post
Have not seen much talk about the dual tapered pistons, but I have been running them on a few different tracks and I'm sold on them! I got the 4x1.0 pistons and I kept my entire setup the same aside from
: front pistons were stock 4x1.3, switched to 4x1.2 Dual tapered
: rear pistons were stock 4x1.4, switched to 4x1.3 Dual tapered

My buggy has more pack and lands better, but feels ultra glued to the track. I have better exit steering now, the rear rotates like a dream and squares up as soon as I punch the throttle coming out of the corner. I had a really great setup prior to the piston change, but wanted more pack without sacrificing rear sidebite/roll. I switched to the 2x1.6 pistons but my buggy seemed lazier and didn't change directions as aggresively without trying to wash out. I am really happy with the DS pistons and plan to put them in my DESC210 as well. Hoping for the same results.
Oil ?
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:29 PM   #11202
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Originally Posted by ridgeracer View Post
Oil ?
I have 35wt fr dark green spring, and 32.5 rr dark blue spring.
But if your setup is pretty good already, the only change I would recommend is .1 smaller piston holes front and rear with the Dual taper. Then just run it. I have ran them on 2 different indoor med bite clay/dirt tracks, and at SRS outdoor loamy med bite.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:35 AM   #11203
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Originally Posted by nismomike View Post
Have not seen much talk about the dual tapered pistons, but I have been running them on a few different tracks and I'm sold on them! I got the 4x1.0 pistons and I kept my entire setup the same aside from
: front pistons were stock 4x1.3, switched to 4x1.2 Dual tapered
: rear pistons were stock 4x1.4, switched to 4x1.3 Dual tapered

My buggy has more pack and lands better, but feels ultra glued to the track. I have better exit steering now, the rear rotates like a dream and squares up as soon as I punch the throttle coming out of the corner. I had a really great setup prior to the piston change, but wanted more pack without sacrificing rear sidebite/roll. I switched to the 2x1.6 pistons but my buggy seemed lazier and didn't change directions as aggresively without trying to wash out. I am really happy with the DS pistons and plan to put them in my DESC210 as well. Hoping for the same results.
4x? I thought most if the stock pistons were 6x.

Can someone school me on shock piston hole size vs displacement? What's the difference between 6x1.0/5x1.2/4x1.5/3x2.0?

Could NismoMike's handling change be due to the displacement area rather than dual taper?

On a similar note, would there be a difference between running these spur/pinion combinations? 69/23 and 81/27. Both ratio at 3.0.


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You should make that with a weight kit or make it in a few weights... just a thought
Good idea. I wouldn't want to buy more than one though May also want to consider moving the sumo name to the sides, can't see it when it's installed.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:04 AM   #11204
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Originally Posted by nismomike View Post
I have 35wt fr dark green spring, and 32.5 rr dark blue spring.
But if your setup is pretty good already, the only change I would recommend is .1 smaller piston holes front and rear with the Dual taper. Then just run it. I have ran them on 2 different indoor med bite clay/dirt tracks, and at SRS outdoor loamy med bite.
Will try. I use single taper 4x1.4 front and 4x1.3 rear now. Driving on a bumpy track with big jumps
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:04 AM   #11205
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
4x? I thought most if the stock pistons were 6x.

Who use the stock pistons?

Can someone school me on shock piston hole size vs displacement? What's the difference between 6x1.0/5x1.2/4x1.5/3x2.0?

Resistence (I think that's the right word), the smaller the hole, given the same surface area of displacement, the more pack & static dampening. It would be nice to have a conversion table, but a 6x1.0 would feel like a 3x1.4 (just an example, don't hold me to the exact numbers). Even though the 3-hole piston has a smaller displacement, the rate at which the fluid moves through the piston is similar.

Could NismoMike's handling change be due to the displacement area rather than dual taper?

On a similar note, would there be a difference between running these spur/pinion combinations? 69/23 and 81/27. Both ratio at 3.0.

The larger the spur, the more torque to the tranny. If you are on a loose surface, the 69 spur would be better as it has less torque and would result in less wheel spin. Also, the spur size will help you position the motor forward and backward which has an impact on the pendulum effect of a RM car and weight positioning of the motor.
Disclaimer: I'm not Bill Nye the science guy, nor an engineer or physicist, but that is what I've learned through years of experience.
Good idea. I wouldn't want to buy more than one though May also want to consider moving the sumo name to the sides, can't see it when it's installed.
Hope that helps with some discussion....
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