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Old 04-15-2013, 10:59 AM   #10891
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most do 3 gear unless your on a really loose track then you run 4 gear for more traction, but most conditions 4gear is too much rear traction
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:13 AM   #10892
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most do 3 gear unless your on a really loose track then you run 4 gear for more traction, but most conditions 4gear is too much rear traction
Adding a little more traction certainly won't hurt at all
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:19 AM   #10893
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I have read few pages back lowering roll center on this car is by adding shims inside by the bulkhead is this correct?. When I look at the camber link angle of the car removing shims inside will lower the roll center on the rear, But somehow when I remove shims on the inside link by the rear bulkhead I had the oppsite effect and loose traction instead of gaining.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:20 PM   #10894
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Have a question for you guys that have done the shock flip on the rear of the buggy. Did you swap the rear hubs also? The reason I ask is because when the hubs are left on the correct sides the camber link has alot of angle, if the hubs are swapped also the camber links stay lined up with the lower arm. All in all I liked the buggy pretty well, very loose on power though needs a lot more rear traction, if I bearly touched the throttle coming out of a slow corner I was going around. 1/8 ebuggy spoiled me I broke a rear hub on about my third practice lap. Moved the camber link to the outside hole and kept running though. After I relearned myself to drive 2wd, I stopped crashing every corner, lol, still need a little more traction though coming out of the corners, maybe a lighter trigger finger would help most, lol.

Hubs on correct side




Hubs flipped on opposite side


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Old 04-15-2013, 07:08 PM   #10895
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Now that I have looked at the manual for the first time I think the hubs were on backwards to begin with.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:31 PM   #10896
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Now that I have looked at the manual for the first time I think the hubs were on backwards to begin with.
Hub direction does not matter, the toe insert within the hub is critical! The hubs themselves can be installed left or right depending on youre wheelbase setting, as the turnbuckle can mount easier.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:36 PM   #10897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morpheus847 View Post
Have a question for you guys that have done the shock flip on the rear of the buggy. Did you swap the rear hubs also? The reason I ask is because when the hubs are left on the correct sides the camber link has alot of angle, if the hubs are swapped also the camber links stay lined up with the lower arm. All in all I liked the buggy pretty well, very loose on power though needs a lot more rear traction, if I bearly touched the throttle coming out of a slow corner I was going around. 1/8 ebuggy spoiled me I broke a rear hub on about my third practice lap. Moved the camber link to the outside hole and kept running though. After I relearned myself to drive 2wd, I stopped crashing every corner, lol, still need a little more traction though coming out of the corners, maybe a lighter trigger finger would help most, lol.

Hubs on correct side



Hubs flipped on opposite side

If you're loose on power a few things can help: shorter rear camber link, moving the lower shock mount in, and lowering the rear inner ballstud. Try one at a time as they have other effects on handling elsewhere on the track, so you need to find the balance that works for you.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:22 AM   #10898
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
I have read few pages back lowering roll center on this car is by adding shims inside by the bulkhead is this correct?. When I look at the camber link angle of the car removing shims inside will lower the roll center on the rear, But somehow when I remove shims on the inside link by the rear bulkhead I had the oppsite effect and loose traction instead of gaining.
Just remember its always possible to go too far in any direction when adjusting RC. You could be rolling so much that the outside tire starts to ride on the sidewall and looses traction because there's no tread.

Another thing to try would be moving the link on the hub to the next outer hole. That will reduce the amount of camber gain so you won't ride on the sidewall of the tire.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:28 AM   #10899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
I have read few pages back lowering roll center on this car is by adding shims inside by the bulkhead is this correct?. When I look at the camber link angle of the car removing shims inside will lower the roll center on the rear, But somehow when I remove shims on the inside link by the rear bulkhead I had the oppsite effect and loose traction instead of gaining.
You are getting a little confused on your terminology here. Lowering the inner camber link does not lower the roll center, it raises it. That is why when you removed shims from the inner camber link you lost traction. You raised the roll center, which causes an increase in roll stiffness, which reduces body roll, and therefore traction. Make sense?
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:02 AM   #10900
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Just remember its always possible to go too far in any direction when adjusting RC. You could be rolling so much that the outside tire starts to ride on the sidewall and looses traction because there's no tread.

Another thing to try would be moving the link on the hub to the next outer hole. That will reduce the amount of camber gain so you won't ride on the sidewall of the tire.
That's a bit backwards. A longer link will promote more body roll, and IF he is riding on the outer edge of the tire, that will only make it worse. To reduce that, either more static negative camber needs to be added, or remove inner ballstud washers to increase camber gain.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:55 PM   #10901
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well after putting the buggy back together, my idea above in the 2nd pic keeping the camber link strait with the lower arm didn't work. When putting the tire on the ballcup end rubbed the inside of the rim. Ended up leaving the hubs turned that way and just mounted the camber link on the backside, now it's lined up above the axle so nothing rubs.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:34 PM   #10902
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Bman's chassis are the bomb!!!
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-b1.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-b2.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-b3.jpg  
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:49 PM   #10903
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I found this picture interesting.
It's from the book,
MOTOGP Technology by Neil Spalding

(notice the directions the arrows point)

This shows that a motor spinning in the same direction as the wheels will tend to lift the front.
A motor spinning in the opposite direction as the wheels will tend to hold the front down.

I found while applying about 1/2 throttle on a high grip clay track with the car set in MM4 and a Reedy 10.5, it would could easily flip over backwards.
I've changed it to MM3 to see how this setting works.
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Durango DEX210 Thread-spin.jpg  
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Last edited by Tdiddy; 04-16-2013 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:18 PM   #10904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Smash View Post
You are getting a little confused on your terminology here. Lowering the inner camber link does not lower the roll center, it raises it. That is why when you removed shims from the inner camber link you lost traction. You raised the roll center, which causes an increase in roll stiffness, which reduces body roll, and therefore traction. Make sense?
Thank you for anwering my for the roll center adjustment for this buggy. Now I undestand when you add shims on the inside ball stud you lower the roll center instead of removing it to induce more roll into the buggy. thats why I ask because the camber link angle from the center line of the car is higher from the outside link when you add shims in the inside ball stud which for me raise the roll center higher.

I have't really played with setup changes on 2wd buggy but now I understand. Coming from touring car for the 11 years and I have only driven
4wd buggy setting up TC and 4WD buggy is similar.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:51 PM   #10905
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I'm wondering if anyone has a good gear-diff set-up for loose-to-mid traction dirt?

I know I know...I should be running the ball diff (which I have), but I'd like to give the gear-diff a shot as our club moves from indoor carpet to outdoor dirt.

I run Calibers in the rear, ribs in the front, and have yet to configure the geometry.

I ran 1000cst in my diff for the whole of the 7 month indoor season (high-grip carpet), and I expect to initially try 2000cst outdoors but would love to hear ideas!

I will be doing the rear-shock mod, and may try RM4 as traction can be low at the start of the season (later on the track get "sealed" with some, I don't know, glue or something).

Thanks for your time thinking of this!
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