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Old 03-22-2013, 07:54 AM   #10666
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Thanks for the info! I'll be sending some photos soon.
I sent the email with photos yesterday to support@durango.com for replacement of the ball diff outdrives. I will keep you all posted on the progress.

As far as the ballcups, I have had issues with them on my 210 but some reason the same HD ballcups have resulted in no issues on my 410....weird. I too have only experienced the issue in two places, the ackerman plate and the tranny case locations. I just replaced those with Losi's I had on hand and the problem went away.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:10 AM   #10667
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I like this setup, its right where I am at with my setup. Very responsive car. I am running the DIMEC20, exotek chassis weight, Tresrey front alloy bulkhead (adds some weight), Cream front Tower (more weight). And also run a shorty in the center of the chassis, and the speedo under the rear bulkhead. Keeps the bulk of the weight in the center of the car and my jumping improved greatly! I also moved my shocks to the back of the towers which gave me a more stable car on power!

Attachment 1046770
I'm also thinking about switching up to MM4 and moving my shocks to the rear of the arms. I'm starting to feel some stability issues on RM3. Hopefully this will smooth things out.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:11 AM   #10668
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The stock ball cups sucks. It can not be, that i need 3 tools in the same time to adjust the turnbuckles like dirango shows on there site.

If i try to adjust the turnbuckle wirh one tool, the ball cup pop off. This sucks. I never had rc car, where the ball cups pop off by adjusting the turnbuckles.
I have brand new hd ball cups on my dex210.

This thinks let me thinking about to switching the brand.
Don`t change to the B44,2 or B4.2 then, I read they have the same problem with their ball cups. Xray dont have this problem, but their owners wish they had, because they are breaking stuff instead of the ball cups coming off.
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:15 AM   #10669
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Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
I like this setup, its right where I am at with my setup. Very responsive car. I am running the DIMEC20, exotek chassis weight, Tresrey front alloy bulkhead (adds some weight), Cream front Tower (more weight). And also run a shorty in the center of the chassis, and the speedo under the rear bulkhead. Keeps the bulk of the weight in the center of the car and my jumping improved greatly! I also moved my shocks to the back of the towers which gave me a more stable car on power!

Attachment 1046770
Very nicely done.
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:29 AM   #10670
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I'm also thinking about switching up to MM4 and moving my shocks to the rear of the arms. I'm starting to feel some stability issues on RM3. Hopefully this will smooth things out.
Let us know how it goes! I will be going MM4 when our outdoor carpet track is dug out. cmon spring!
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:30 AM   #10671
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Very nicely done.
Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:42 AM   #10672
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Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
I like this setup, its right where I am at with my setup. Very responsive car. I am running the DIMEC20, exotek chassis weight, Tresrey front alloy bulkhead (adds some weight), Cream front Tower (more weight). And also run a shorty in the center of the chassis, and the speedo under the rear bulkhead. Keeps the bulk of the weight in the center of the car and my jumping improved greatly! I also moved my shocks to the back of the towers which gave me a more stable car on power!

Attachment 1046770
are you flipping the arms for this?
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:47 AM   #10673
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are you flipping the arms for this?
Yep, I explained how a few pages back. I did it right after I saw Jorn do it at the last EOS.
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:19 PM   #10674
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thinking of getting back into 2WD, like the look of this DEX210... can anyone summarise this thread as ain't reading through 712 pages, lol. also looking at the rc10 any pros and cons between the two. cheers
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:12 PM   #10675
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Let us know how it goes! I will be going MM4 when our outdoor carpet track is dug out. cmon spring!

I have MM4 on mine running indoor carpet and its on rails. It's not to bad on dirt in MM4 either. I change ride height, springs, oil, tires, and add the brass weight to the rear and it's pretty good.
I will have to make some visits to LITH's when the Outdoor carpet is ready. What was the tire of choice last year? I'm running dboot nano's front and Schumacher minpin on the rear, and slicks once and a while.
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:12 PM   #10676
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If you gonna run in to situations like indoor carpet tracks or astro you'd want to run a midmotor setup. That would not be possible with the rc10

this buggy has so much fun things to play with setup wise. when you take it easy and get to know the dex, you would find it easy to drive with in every situation
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:19 PM   #10677
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I received my 8-Racing carbon chassis that I ordered direct from 8-racing.
9 total days from Germany to IL! Plus saves $60 when you count shipping costs.

Now, I love this thing it took a little to get use to the added flex and light weight. I'm now sitting at 1505 grams in full race trim.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:55 PM   #10678
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I received my 8-Racing carbon chassis that I ordered direct from 8-racing.
9 total days from Germany to IL! Plus saves $60 when you count shipping costs.

Now, I love this thing it took a little to get use to the added flex and light weight. I'm now sitting at 1505 grams in full race trim.
Think about putting a front skid plate on that pretty chassis. I have seen many break up front including the one sitting on my workbench.......
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:06 PM   #10679
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Think about putting a front skid plate on that pretty chassis. I have seen many break up front including the one sitting on my workbench.......
Did it break from a wicked hit or just the normal stress for racing? The main reason I got it is weights savings as its a 17.5 class buggy.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:23 PM   #10680
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Did it break from a wicked hit or just the normal stress for racing? The main reason I got it is weights savings as its a 17.5 class buggy.
The front kickup wears and becomes fragile. It cracks right at the bend. I could help you with that. Cheap insurance for a normally $180 chassis. Pm if your interested. Thanks....
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