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Old 03-14-2013, 08:57 AM   #10561
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My car keeps wearing out outdrives, particularly the nut side drive. The funny thing is that its the braking direction that c's out rather than the drive side. Has anyone noticed this same thing, or have any ideas as to why the outdrives don't wear evenly?
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:42 AM   #10562
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I got a 210 when they were first released and both the outdrives lasted a long time. In recent months I'm lucky if I get 3 race day's on just the one side. As an experiment I flipped the diff around to see if the same side wore out or the same outdrive wore out, turns out the same outdrive wore out. There is clearly a manufacturing issue with that 1 side outdrive.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:47 AM   #10563
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Can a couple of you fine folks please post some of your cars with the lids off? I'm getting a 210 soon and I'd like some ideas for clean wiring.
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:08 AM   #10564
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Rear shock mounting worked as i thought! Big success on the same setup with just the rear shocks mounted on the back of the rear arm. Last friday i was lucky to pull a 10.9sec lap. Last night was pulling 10.2 laps! This was on dusty small track med traction dirt/clay mix. The car was way more stable on power and still retained proper rotation.
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:41 AM   #10565
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Rear shock mounting worked as i thought! Big success on the same setup with just the rear shocks mounted on the back of the rear arm. Last friday i was lucky to pull a 10.9sec lap. Last night was pulling 10.2 laps! This was on dusty small track med traction dirt/clay mix. The car was way more stable on power and still retained proper rotation.
So do the arms remain on the same side and you just flip therm over?
Did you do anything other than that? (like add any shims to the shock mount at the tower or make adjustments to the position of the arm on the hinge pin?)
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:42 AM   #10566
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Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Rear shock mounting worked as i thought! Big success on the same setup with just the rear shocks mounted on the back of the rear arm. Last friday i was lucky to pull a 10.9sec lap. Last night was pulling 10.2 laps! This was on dusty small track med traction dirt/clay mix. The car was way more stable on power and still retained proper rotation.
Was this with re-drilled or flipped arms?
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:44 AM   #10567
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You may wanna buy some spare plastic servo horns I have the 1251 and i stripped the gears soon after I replaced a striped plastic horn with aluminum just not thinking about it being weaker than the titanium and now I had to replace the gears in the servo ,,, and wouldn't moving the shocks to the back just change the point where the weight is over the rear tires just like if you had a heavyier motor or RR block with a shorty lipo compared to full size
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:10 AM   #10568
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You may wanna buy some spare plastic servo horns I have the 1251 and i stripped the gears soon after I replaced a striped plastic horn with aluminum just not thinking about it being weaker than the titanium and now I had to replace the gears in the servo ,,, and wouldn't moving the shocks to the back just change the point where the weight is over the rear tires just like if you had a heavyier motor or RR block with a shorty lipo compared to full size
I would never use a 1251 servo without servosaver.. Go for the 1268 in the DEX210 and the alu horn. Just stripped the gears in a brand new 1251 in a touring car with a plastic horn, no saver. Have read that several others also stripped their 1251`s with plastic horns also
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:10 AM   #10569
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You may wanna buy some spare plastic servo horns I have the 1251 and i stripped the gears soon after I replaced a striped plastic horn with aluminum just not thinking about it being weaker than the titanium and now I had to replace the gears in the servo ,,, and wouldn't moving the shocks to the back just change the point where the weight is over the rear tires just like if you had a heavyier motor or RR block with a shorty lipo compared to full size

I put a little lock tite on my servo screw and i haven't stripped the plastic horn and I run a Savox 1257. The 1251 gears are not titanium it's just a metal gear set.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:13 AM   #10570
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Can a couple of you fine folks please post some of your cars with the lids off? I'm getting a 210 soon and I'd like some ideas for clean wiring.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:02 PM   #10571
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Originally Posted by P6 View Post
You may wanna buy some spare plastic servo horns I have the 1251 and i stripped the gears soon after I replaced a striped plastic horn with aluminum just not thinking about it being weaker than the titanium and now I had to replace the gears in the servo ,,, and wouldn't moving the shocks to the back just change the point where the weight is over the rear tires just like if you had a heavyier motor or RR block with a shorty lipo compared to full size
It all depends on what you do I guess. If you flip the arms, you will create a slightly longer wheel base, provided that you don't change your hub shimming.
I also bet that during acceleration the arms are twisting, and they will twist differently depending on if the damper is attached in the front or the rear.
And of course you will be moving the damper mass. Which effect that makes the biggest difference is the big question I guess.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:11 PM   #10572
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
Can a couple of you fine folks please post some of your cars with the lids off? I'm getting a 210 soon and I'd like some ideas for clean wiring.
Heres mine.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:02 PM   #10573
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Originally Posted by patrick View Post
I got a 210 when they were first released and both the outdrives lasted a long time. In recent months I'm lucky if I get 3 race day's on just the one side. As an experiment I flipped the diff around to see if the same side wore out or the same outdrive wore out, turns out the same outdrive wore out. There is clearly a manufacturing issue with that 1 side outdrive.
Good to know at least someone else is experiencing the same issue. Weird how it is just the one outdrive. I was hoping it wasn't something in my bench work, or maybe I was to resolve the issue. You're right, my kit outdrives did last longer than any replacements. Hopefully this issue gets resolved, or maybe the availabilty of just purchasing the single side as these things are getting expensive to replace in pairs as only one is needed.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:41 PM   #10574
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Originally Posted by GregerL View Post
It all depends on what you do I guess. If you flip the arms, you will create a slightly longer wheel base, provided that you don't change your hub shimming.
I also bet that during acceleration the arms are twisting, and they will twist differently depending on if the damper is attached in the front or the rear.
And of course you will be moving the damper mass. Which effect that makes the biggest difference is the big question I guess.
The Team Durango guys are doing this in the mid motor setup only. I can see this helping that chassis setup, but rear motor would be best to leave them in the stock location and work on the rest of the setup improve rear traction.
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:08 PM   #10575
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Originally Posted by patrick View Post
I got a 210 when they were first released and both the outdrives lasted a long time. In recent months I'm lucky if I get 3 race day's on just the one side. As an experiment I flipped the diff around to see if the same side wore out or the same outdrive wore out, turns out the same outdrive wore out. There is clearly a manufacturing issue with that 1 side outdrive.
Sounds like u guys are not setting the rear droop. At a min droop should be set enough to limit the excessive vibration and wear that u will get with no limit. Outdrives will last a long long time if u do this.
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