Oasis

iTrader: (38)

I just picked up a set of Durango taper pistons (4hole 1.0) and was wondering if you guys had a good starting point on oil & springs.. I run on a small medium traction indoor track..thanks..

P6

iTrader: (5)

i just bought some 4x1.0 with a gmk drill set ,, right now my current is 27.5wt-35wt ae oil 4x1.3 front ..... 22.5wt-27.5wt ae oil 4x1.2 rear oil differs depending on springs your using im dark green all around basically and right now its cold around me so im on lower wt oils now,, im gonna drill the tapers to 1.2 and 1.3 and test for the taper only then later i planed to close 2 holes and drill to 1.6 all around ,, if you can't drill them then i would try 20-22.5wt rear 25-27.5wt front ,, its an experiment to get the oil to pack enough for jumping but rebound fast enough for rough sections or bumps , thats why i wanna try 2 hole it will give the fast rebound with the lighter oils but pack faster with the less holes so best of both worlds without a dual stage piston

nitro-rob

I think everyones experience is a bit different. We find the Losi's on our track are indestructible (90% losi there) and I went to another area last night and they say the durangos are the solid trucks and the losi are brittle. We also have a cement outer wall on half of the course which isn't helping.

There seems to be some inconsistency in the manufacturing. For a long time it was ball cups and the C-hubs were fine and then all of a sudden C-hubs broke like crazy.

I am running the regular dimec. The losi was bought as insurance. My fear of snapping the durango effects my driving now and I need to get better.

Cream - I will look at the towers but the breakage problem is pretty spread out over the truck.

I kind of wish my only problems were the ball cups.

This is an interesting truck. It handles well and it takes a bit more to figure it out and get it to work for you but its very worthwhile to take the time to get into this truck. I just need to keep it in one piece.

P6

iTrader: (5)

im breaking down the buggy now for the weight ive changed compared to stock ,, ive been very lucky with parts i guess ,, my buggy's box is marked 2009 and since ive bought it i only broke one rear hub from a sliding the back of the rear tire into the wall trying to stop and turn before i hit the wall ,, ive also noticed the plastics they use are brittle and dont have much tolerance compared to other brands

P6

iTrader: (5)

(weight) s=stock/kit... s hinge pins 13.7g lungsford kit 8.8g,, s front tower 4 screws 13.3g diggy design cf with 4 screws 17g,, s rear tower 11.8g exotech cf 10.8g,,, s rear front toe block 3.9g i have 30g brass rf,, s steering rack and hardware 12.3g cf rack titanium turnbuckles and hardware 13.8g,, s front suspension block 6.4g revolution design 21g,, i had purple turnbuckles so i dont know the brand but they used kit balls and cups they weigh 14.5g lungsford 50mm turnbuckles and losi steel 4.8mm ball studs 17.8g,, kit alum chassis 105.8g,, countersunk washers are 0.7g for 4,, the standard 3mm lock nuts are 3.2g per 4 not sure about the low profile lock nuts

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

Quality stuff here! I have both front and back towers, but use the exotek gold aluminum piece up front for looks

Chrisg23

iTrader: (2)

My stock shocks are constantly leaking at the rubber seal on the caps. Would someone fill me in on a better way? Is there a way to keep them from leaking?

glenng

iTrader: (1)

get these orings:

http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...s100003-c.html

glenng

iTrader: (1)

right on Raul. you get all the fun parts! im running the carbon +8 with Bman's braces, i think he used your carbon as the template to make my front skid. the chassis is like bulletproof with the bracing to the point im constantly snapping a-arms now (im a crappy driver, cant lie). better off a 10 dollar a-arm over a 100+ chassis though. but anyway, how did that chassis work out?

glenng

iTrader: (1)

and use green slime around the orings. if its the top cap you are talking about, use an exacto blade to score the inside ridge of cap lightly so the oring can seat itself better.

Cream

iTrader: (2)

Try putting a little chamfer on the leading edge of the thread on the cap, It helps to retain the 'o'ring. I had the same issue with both mine and my Son's car, This cured it.

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

I was going to mention this also but didn't know if he was talking about the upper cap (where this mod helps alot you just take sand paper to the inner edge of the cap) or if he was talking about the lower caps.

Chrisg23

iTrader: (2)

Created the chamfer in the shock cap, worked like a charm! Thx

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

Glen,

The RcJunky chassis works great. My car feels more stable than ever. I also received my Tresrey chassis yesterday so there is going to be a +8 car and a +10 car. The Tresrey chassis is like a piece of fine jewelry.

Boadazofa

iTrader: (33)

Put up a pic of the + ten when you get it together! Will you still use the +8 body?