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Old 01-10-2013, 11:05 AM   #9616
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I actually have 2k in the Ae gear diff I had no plans to change it the track I've ran it on uses slicks so its usually high bite damp or wet clay where u can wheelie most spots and it still would rotate in the corner if I needed it to I just got my spare circlips in the mail so one day ill be doing them both back to back so I can make the final decicion on what I'm gonna keep in my dex
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:25 AM   #9617
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Originally Posted by pete48 View Post
....and just when you thought you had already seen the dumbest thing in your life..... along comes the 'Los-i-rango'.

Actually, I think it turned out pretty nice.
Love it. Looks retro. I have XXX-CR bodies I never painted. Wonder if they would fit. Hmm, I wonder if a protech RC 10 body would fit a +8 chassis? Could retro it out!
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:34 PM   #9618
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Originally Posted by Brushless420 View Post
Just picked up the Lunsford kit with turnbuckles and ball studs. Which ball cups seem to be the best? Are the lundsford worth a shot? Or should I go with the white J Concepts?
I installed kyosho on my Lunsford tit rods and studs. They are so great I just bought a bunch to do all my other cars. Not just that one has NEVER popped off...but they still feel like new. No play yet after a lot of usage. May want to get 2 kits cuz some are short and not usable.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nd-Gunmetal-18
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:36 AM   #9619
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I installed kyosho on my Lunsford tit rods and studs. They are so great I just bought a bunch to do all my other cars. Not just that one has NEVER popped off...but they still feel like new. No play yet after a lot of usage. May want to get 2 kits cuz some are short and not usable.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nd-Gunmetal-18
4.8 is also the size of the Losi 22 cups. You could go that route as well.

Me personally, i went with the lunsford turnbuckles, tc5/tc6 tinitrate studs and rpm long cups. I have taken some hard hits, and not one cup has popped off, and they wear great.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:47 AM   #9620
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just made the switch to the +8 dimec 20 chassis over stock aluminum. ( I run carpet so i wanted the stiffer plastic)
I have seen a lot of pics of chassis breaking in the front. I had same issue when I ran a team c tc02c. a little aluminum plate fixed it all up. The furthest screw back on the plate has a nut on topside of the chassis. unfortunately the 2 screws in front of that one have no room on the top side for a nut.
just a strip of aluminum from lowes cut down. it was less than 5 bucks for 3 feet of it


rear brace.


new +8 body


I did just stumble across the tbone rear skids today. about time someone released these to the world. need to make one for the front as well
http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-N-Z/T...o/DEX210-c375/
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:09 AM   #9621
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
4.8 is also the size of the Losi 22 cups. You could go that route as well.

Me personally, i went with the lunsford turnbuckles, tc5/tc6 tinitrate studs and rpm long cups. I have taken some hard hits, and not one cup has popped off, and they wear great.
I'm inthe middle of replacing my 22 ones with kyosho. The Losi ones work well but they get slop in them very quickly. The kyoshos seem to stay tight.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:18 AM   #9622
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per another forum member I am running this setup on my dex210 and desc210r with great results. FYI any 1/10 scale ballcups will work but i like the jconcepts ones since they include bent ones for around gearbox



Replaced team durango ball cups and ball studs with

jconcepts ball cups
TowerHobbies.com | JConcepts 1/10 Ball Cups Black (20)

Ball studs (sold in pairs)

Part #ASC31293
Associated Titanium Nitride Ball Studs M3x10 Long
(need 8 of these ball studs)
TowerHobbies.com | Associated Titanium Nitride Ball Studs M3x10 Long (2)

Part #ASC31289
Associated Titanium Nitride Ball Studs 8mm Short (need 2 of these ball studs)
TowerHobbies.com | Associated Titanium Nitride Ball Studs 8mm Short (2)

Part #ASC31290
Associated Titanium Nitride Ball Studs M3x10 Short (need 2 of these ball studs)
TowerHobbies.com | Associated Titanium Nitride Ball Studs M3x10 Short (2)

the above ball studs go in these locations on truck

ASC31293

X2 front shock tower
X4 front hubs
X2 gearbox7

ASC31289
x2 Ackerman plate 8mm

ASC31290
x2 rear hubs 10mm ASC31290

also when building your links use grease on the threads( i use the clear td grease included in kit)
and thread them in and out a few times . This is a pain in the ass for sure and takes some time but if you do this then you can actually adjust them on the vehicle without them popping off.

I really like this ball cup/ball stud setup.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:52 AM   #9623
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Hey guys what pinion should I start with? I will be running a Orion 8.5 motor and the r10 pro speedo. Also using the stock 81 spur. Thanks.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:48 PM   #9624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discgolferlee View Post
just made the switch to the +8 dimec 20 chassis over stock aluminum. ( I run carpet so i wanted the stiffer plastic)
I have seen a lot of pics of chassis breaking in the front. I had same issue when I ran a team c tc02c. a little aluminum plate fixed it all up. The furthest screw back on the plate has a nut on topside of the chassis. unfortunately the 2 screws in front of that one have no room on the top side for a nut.
just a strip of aluminum from lowes cut down. it was less than 5 bucks for 3 feet of it


rear brace.


new +8 body


I did just stumble across the tbone rear skids today. about time someone released these to the world. need to make one for the front as well
http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-N-Z/T...o/DEX210-c375/

hey man, car loooks great! im bout to install my second dimec20 tonite. i ordered the front bumper for the desc210 that needs to be cut down up front and i ordered the t bone rear piece, both the rear skid and rear bumper as well as the front mini bumper, but still waiting on them. was hoping it was gonna come today, but its cool. i really like your graphite rear skid and the body looks great too. nice work dude
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:08 PM   #9625
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Hey just a little FYI, I wanted to share some info with you if you are grinding and cutting Carbon pieces. The stuff is seriously bad news, so BE CAREFUL. It is really bad to inhale the dust, so do it in either a ventilated area, and/or use some type of respirator if you can.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:00 PM   #9626
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Originally Posted by glenng View Post
hey man, car loooks great! im bout to install my second dimec20 tonite. i ordered the front bumper for the desc210 that needs to be cut down up front and i ordered the t bone rear piece, both the rear skid and rear bumper as well as the front mini bumper, but still waiting on them. was hoping it was gonna come today, but its cool. i really like your graphite rear skid and the body looks great too. nice work dude
Looks good dude! Did you cut down your front wheels to accept the schumacher cut staggers?
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #9627
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Hey just a little FYI, I wanted to share some info with you if you are grinding and cutting Carbon pieces. The stuff is seriously bad news, so BE CAREFUL. It is really bad to inhale the dust, so do it in either a ventilated area, and/or use some type of respirator if you can.
Good advice, but I told him the same thing a page earlier. He said he was aware and took precautions.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:02 AM   #9628
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Looks good dude! Did you cut down your front wheels to accept the schumacher cut staggers?
Nope. Stock wheels
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:10 AM   #9629
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Anyone have a good set up for a indoor high bite clay track? Just getting ready to finish the build on my buggy and could use a really good starting point...
Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:42 AM   #9630
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Anyone have a good set up for a indoor high bite clay track? Just getting ready to finish the build on my buggy and could use a really good starting point...
Thanks!
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...ngoDEX210.html im using cush's setup for indoor futuba just adjusting the spring rates for weight difference and shock oils/pistons depending on jumps & bumps and laying down the shocks more for the higher speed corners our track is high bite most are using slicks for the wet-damp clay this setup was working really well for me it seemed better the harder i pushed it
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