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Old 10-21-2011, 01:34 PM   #931
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Add about 1.5 to 2.0 mm to remove the bump steer.
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:20 PM   #932
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1. Anybody else notice that you cannot run holes 1 or 2 (the outside two holes) on the rear hubs? The angle of the turn buckle doesn't allow it.

2. Factory setup introduces a lot of in-bumpsteer. 1 extra mm of washers needed under the ballstud on the turnblock to get closer to 0 bumpsteer (don't know exactly how much yet, haven't played)
Can you space the ballstud away from the hub carrier to gain the clearance you need? I'll look at the car tonite and see.
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:36 PM   #933
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Are the the losi xxx cr wheels fit to this car?
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:37 PM   #934
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Are the the losi xxx cr wheels fit to this car?
you can run the rear's if you switch to the pin drive instead of the hex drive. You just need the correct spacers and your set.
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:39 PM   #935
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
1. Anybody else notice that you cannot run holes 1 or 2 (the outside two holes) on the rear hubs? The angle of the turn buckle doesn't allow it.

2. Factory setup introduces a lot of in-bumpsteer. 1 extra mm of washers needed under the ballstud on the turnblock to get closer to 0 bumpsteer (don't know exactly how much yet, haven't played)
4mm of spacers gives you zero bump steer when running 30 deg of castor, factory setup is 3mm spacer. As you move the castor either up or down you'll have to adjust accordingly to maintain zero bump steer.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:08 PM   #936
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Can you space the ballstud away from the hub carrier to gain the clearance you need?
I'm sure you could, but I would guess that the spacing required to use hole #1, for example, would be pretty significant, putting a lot of leverage against the hole.

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4mm of spacers gives you zero bump steer when running 30 deg of castor, factory setup is 3mm spacer. As you move the castor either up or down you'll have to adjust accordingly to maintain zero bump steer.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:14 PM   #937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
1. Anybody else notice that you cannot run holes 1 or 2 (the outside two holes) on the rear hubs? The angle of the turn buckle doesn't allow it.

2. Factory setup introduces a lot of in-bumpsteer. 1 extra mm of washers needed under the ballstud on the turnblock to get closer to 0 bumpsteer (don't know exactly how much yet, haven't played)
to answer #1, just use the extra set of angled ballcups. They're longer so you'd have to use a shorter turnbuckle but I just eyeballed it against my car and they would work fine.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:24 PM   #938
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[QUOTE=Quad Racer 34;9810606]Wow, really? You must have the wrong tires or something? The first thing I noticed with this car is how much steering it had without breaking the rear end loose.QUOTE]

I have the soft rebars with proline foams on the front. It's all the local shop had at the time.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:43 PM   #939
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Originally Posted by KainK View Post
Did you only have one bearing in diff? If so that could be part of the problem. This diff should be one of the best if built right.

I am running the 3 gear tranny and my car has a little push to it. I have only got to try 1 set of tires so far. Ill have more wheels tonight to mount tires on so I will have to see if that helps. I only got to put 4 batteries through it last night but it was a lot of fun
I had to take the one out to get it to work. It was like it was not tightening all the way.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:56 PM   #940
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I had to take the one out to get it to work. It was like it was not tightening all the way.
if you had to take a bearing out to get the diff to work then something isn't built right. I would take it completely apart and rebuild it exactly by the instructions
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:28 PM   #941
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Quote:
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if you had to take a bearing out to get the diff to work then something isn't built right. I would take it completely apart and rebuild it exactly by the instructions
Thats what I did the first and second time. I made a half a lap and it was like I burned up the diff. It just slipped.
I loosened it up spun it a few times and tightened it back up n it seemed fine for a lap and did it again.
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:47 PM   #942
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Thats what I did the first and second time. I made a half a lap and it was like I burned up the diff. It just slipped.
I loosened it up spun it a few times and tightened it back up n it seemed fine for a lap and did it again.
what gearbox are you running? RM3, RM4, MM3, or MM4? Then, which side of the car is the diff screw in? I remember in my cougar, if you had the diff in backwards, the torque from the car would back the diff off... and this diff is very similar to the diff that comes in that car.

Anybody else seeing this?
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:47 PM   #943
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This sounds like you didn't install the thrust bearing properly. Make sure that you have the thrust washers faced the correct way. There is a "race" in the thrust bearing washer that must face the balls and cage.
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:48 PM   #944
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This sounds like you didn't install the thrust bearing properly. Make sure that you have the thrust washers faced the correct way. There is a "race" in the thrust bearing washer that must face the balls and cage.
Yep. and the thrust assembly goes down into the diff housing, and the Cclip goes in on top of it, holding it in.... then the bearing.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:06 PM   #945
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Here it is. The Austrian time travel machine
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