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Old 12-23-2012, 06:28 PM   #9361
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Anyone know if the Finnisher body fits the +8 chassis?
Fits fine, it just flares out in one spot but works just fine.

Read you can take a heat gun to it and mold it to fit perfectly if you want to spend alittle extra time doing it.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:45 PM   #9362
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Thanks guys, I just didn't want to buy a new body since mine is in great shape still.
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:41 PM   #9363
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My DEX210 is a year old and I am loving it. Ran it all year with the stock aluminum chassis and nothing has broken. My buddies have been running the DIMEC +8 chassis so I decided to try one out. Not even one pack and the chassis broke at the front kick-up. I don't remember any big hits but I must have clipped a pipe or something. Kind of bummed, because I picked up a DESC210 and it has a similar chassis.




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Old 12-23-2012, 10:22 PM   #9364
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i havent seen a buggy chassis break like that before. ive seen the sc chassis break at the rear corner but thats about it.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:26 PM   #9365
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same thing happen to my 8racing carbon fibre chassis. Broke on the same spot
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:30 PM   #9366
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We have several races on our Dimec, and Dimec 20 with no breaks..
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:36 PM   #9367
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same thing happen to my 8racing carbon fibre chassis. Broke on the same spot
Noooo ... I just recieved an 8 Racing CF chassis. Well hopefully your was a fluke, I still want to try it out. I heard the mid chassis spacers are the weak point with the 8 Racing chassis?
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:34 AM   #9368
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Originally Posted by Shark413 View Post
My DEX210 is a year old and I am loving it. Ran it all year with the stock aluminum chassis and nothing has broken. My buddies have been running the DIMEC +8 chassis so I decided to try one out. Not even one pack and the chassis broke at the front kick-up. I don't remember any big hits but I must have clipped a pipe or something. Kind of bummed, because I picked up a DESC210 and it has a similar chassis.
I had the same thing happen on the buggy AND the stadium truck in the same night. The Short Course is holding strong. Not sure why or what would make that one hold up, but it does.

I am making a carbon piece out of some scrap that will go over that area just to tie it all together with those 4 screws up front, but not sure it will work...
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:14 AM   #9369
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same thing happen to my 8racing carbon fibre chassis. Broke on the same spot
+2 my Carbon 8racing same spot lasted 2 months
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:32 AM   #9370
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Crashed HARD yesterday while practicing. Put a 7.5 in my buggy, was feeling invincible and went for the huge triple after just 2 laps. Track was dry and hadnt been swept. Landed off center, nose first. Broke the front bulkhead. Bent the chassis, broke a steering knuckle. Ripped the top deck bushings right out of the chassis. I had just put on fresh arms. They somehow did not break but took a big part of the impact. I hit so hard, that the front of the chassis twisted.

Stock chassis is tuff! Instead of going to carbon or plastic, i just ordered a new stock chassis. I drive agressive, but what i did was just plain stupid. A few seconds of screwing around cost me $90 in parts.
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:33 AM   #9371
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Default minimize the chances of the dimec chassis breaking

I have noticed that on a bunch of dex210's with the dimec chassis, the front of the chassis after the front side braces is bowed down a little because the chassis side pieces are slightly too long. This puts extra pressure on the front kick up and will cause it to break in the event of a nose in crash. The solution is to slightly sand the bottom of the chassis side pieces where they meet the webbing at the front of the chassis. You need to sand it about .25-.5mm. See the enclosed pic.

In addition, I would also suggest putting a longer screw into the front brace where it screws into the chassis side pieces (about 2-3mm longer that stock.)

For the back, DO NOT Overtighten the rear cap screws that go into the rear aluminum suspension block. Use locktite on the screws and make them snug. Also, make sure that you use CAP screws and not countersunk screws.

If you did this and the chassis still breaks, consider not driving the car like an 1/8th scale buggy or 4wd sct.
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Durango DEX210 Thread-dex210f1.jpg  
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:51 AM   #9372
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
Crashed HARD yesterday while practicing. Put a 7.5 in my buggy, was feeling invincible and went for the huge triple after just 2 laps. Track was dry and hadnt been swept. Landed off center, nose first. Broke the front bulkhead. Bent the chassis, broke a steering knuckle. Ripped the top deck bushings right out of the chassis. I had just put on fresh arms. They somehow did not break but took a big part of the impact. I hit so hard, that the front of the chassis twisted.

Stock chassis is tuff! Instead of going to carbon or plastic, i just ordered a new stock chassis. I drive agressive, but what i did was just plain stupid. A few seconds of screwing around cost me $90 in parts.
Yeah, but I'm sure it was fun and this is what this hobby is all about!
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:01 AM   #9373
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After breaking my DIMEC chassis I am going to give the 8 Racing chassis a shot. It is very thin (2mm?) and flexible. Seems to be well made.


8 Racing CF chassis next to a DIMEC chassis


Front of the 8 Racing chassis


Rear


With everything bolted on
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:54 AM   #9374
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After breaking my DIMEC chassis I am going to give the 8 Racing chassis a shot. It is very thin (2mm?) and flexible. Seems to be well made.


8 Racing CF chassis next to a DIMEC chassis


Front of the 8 Racing chassis


Rear


With everything bolted on

its only 2mm thick ?
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:23 PM   #9375
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its only 2mm thick ?
Sorry, I checked and it is closer to 3mm in thickness. It was just so flexible I thought it was thinner.
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