R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree23Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-23-2012, 07:54 AM   #9346
Tech Master
 
zipperfoot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,113
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC10Nick View Post
Ok, so next question for you gear diff guys. Do you have the same problem with your outrdives wearing out?

It seems the TD gear diff will be out of stock for a bit. Should I wait for that, or go with the AE gear diff? Is there a difference in quality between the two?
On a side note, i upgraded my rear shock shafts to the ti-nitrate ones. This is an option part and i found them to be 3mm shorter than stock.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...aft-Set-Gold-2

After they were mounted i noticed the driveshafts were further in on the outdrives at full extension. But even before the upgrade i did not have any outdrive issues.
__________________
If slow is fast, how come I'm still slow?
zipperfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 08:01 AM   #9347
Tech Regular
 
The Czechexican's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 279
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

So when using the rear ball stud mount from tresrey does it shorten the rear camber link even in the inside hole?
__________________
:DEX210:
:DEX410V3:
MARCCA Carpet Racer.
"I Huff SXT 3.0"
The Czechexican is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 08:19 AM   #9348
Tech Master
 
zipperfoot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,113
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Czechexican View Post
So when using the rear ball stud mount from tresrey does it shorten the rear camber link even in the inside hole?
Nope. It lines up perfectly over the original hole. The only difference is that instead of the ball cup mounting on the stud from the top down, it is now mounted from the bottom up onto the Tresrey part.

Take a look at the pics of my 210 in my profile album. If have a top down shot where you can see the inner holes on the Tresrey mount are directly above the mounting holes on the tranny.
__________________
If slow is fast, how come I'm still slow?
zipperfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 08:28 AM   #9349
Tech Regular
 
majorsmx521's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 306
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default camber fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Czechexican View Post
I ripped a ball stud out of the transmission case tonight. this was my fix Does anyone run this http://www.tresrey-usa.com/tresrey-a...est210desc210/ If so how do you like it and is it worth it. It got me threw the night and I even took 2nd in the main but it pushed like a school bus.
Thanks
RCshoxs makes a very trick fix? with extra camber holes
worth checking out
__________________
521DESIGNS PAINT

R.I.P TQ Speedway Boise
majorsmx521 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 09:08 AM   #9350
Tech Elite
 
rcjunky1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 2,184
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
I was replying to rcjunky but you got in there first. Happy you got your solution
Thanks, looks like I'll probably give the HT pads a try, I'll never run anything schumacher
__________________
Official distributor of Dan-O-Mite Custom Parts- Durango 210 RF pivot blocks
Andrew Butters' Burghgraef
Team Durango Canada
Great Hobbies, Hobbico, Skyrc, Exotek
rcjunky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 09:17 AM   #9351
Tech Master
 
RC10Nick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,297
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
On a side note, i upgraded my rear shock shafts to the ti-nitrate ones. This is an option part and i found them to be 3mm shorter than stock.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...aft-Set-Gold-2

After they were mounted i noticed the driveshafts were further in on the outdrives at full extension. But even before the upgrade i did not have any outdrive issues.
I may go this option, as I noticed today I bent a rear shock shaft as well.

Kinda bummed, looks like fixing the diff won't be cheap, no matter what option I go.
__________________
JT RC Products
https://www.facebook.com/JTRCProducts/
RC10Nick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 09:31 AM   #9352
Tech Master
 
CRFXXXT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 87 (99%+)
Default

I am giving the DEX210 and 410 a try, they will be here tomorrow. I had a couple questions:

Which shock shafts do I want to run? Do I want to run the ti ni black or ti ni gold?
Are most running the 1.3/1.4 tapered pistons, or shall I just drill the blanks that come in the shock piston kit?

Thanks
Dave
CRFXXXT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 09:36 AM   #9353
Tech Champion
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,376
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CRFXXXT View Post
I am giving the DEX210 and 410 a try, they will be here tomorrow. I had a couple questions:

Which shock shafts do I want to run? Do I want to run the ti ni black or ti ni gold?
Are most running the 1.3/1.4 tapered pistons, or shall I just drill the blanks that come in the shock piston kit?

Thanks
Dave
Hey Dave, I run the black, my kid uses the gold that came with the dex410v3 kit. Both are nice. Either way wit the pistons, plug the drilled ones with CA and toothpicks, or drill the blanks..I haven't tried the tapered, but would like to..
flame56mx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 09:41 AM   #9354
Tech Elite
 
EvanAZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,912
Trader Rating: 99 (100%+)
Default

Anyone know if the Finnisher body fits the +8 chassis?
__________________
**Over The Top RC - Cars for Kids Program**

***Looking for a responsible person to help run the track and program***
EvanAZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 10:15 AM   #9355
P6
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: il
Posts: 683
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

is their any disadvantage to ball studs not being titanium i can get tlr22 super duty titanium turnbuckles with cups then tlr22 studs for $46.38 vs the $79.99 for the dex210 kit, studs are different lengths but no reason not to work that i can see im starting to get play and popped cups so ill probably change them soon and i could always replace the studs if they ever snap for alot cheaper than other broken parts might cost
P6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 11:06 AM   #9356
Tech Champion
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,376
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanAZ View Post
Anyone know if the Finnisher body fits the +8 chassis?
It fits, but its not perfect..The side pods on the +8 chassis has bumps that are not designed into the Finnisher..
Quote:
Originally Posted by P6 View Post
is their any disadvantage to ball studs not being titanium i can get tlr22 super duty titanium turnbuckles with cups then tlr22 studs for $46.38 vs the $79.99 for the dex210 kit, studs are different lengths but no reason not to work that i can see im starting to get play and popped cups so ill probably change them soon and i could always replace the studs if they ever snap for alot cheaper than other broken parts might cost
Ti studs are stronger, but more $$. If you are concerned about breaking the steel ones, or have already, then thats your fix. I have been running the stock ballstuds and cups, and had no issues, no popoff's and very little play, maybe it has to do with pre-assembly. It has been mentioned plenty of times, but most use a 3mm tap before assembling them, and you can almost adjust them by hand..
flame56mx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 11:22 AM   #9357
Tech Elite
 
8ight-e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,164
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
It fits, but its not perfect..The side pods on the +8 chassis has bumps that are not designed into the Finnisher..


Ti studs are stronger, but more $$. If you are concerned about breaking the steel ones, or have already, then thats your fix. I have been running the stock ballstuds and cups, and had no issues, no popoff's and very little play, maybe it has to do with pre-assembly. It has been mentioned plenty of times, but most use a 3mm tap before assembling them, and you can almost adjust them by hand..
I little ea black grease on the threads makes a difference too.. at least for me.
__________________
Tekno ET48, EB48.2
Durango Fleet - Dex410 v3, Dex210, Desc410, Desc210
8ight-e is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 11:57 AM   #9358
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Janesville, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,857
Trader Rating: 112 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanAZ View Post
Anyone know if the Finnisher body fits the +8 chassis?
Yes, the Finnisher does fit the +8mm body. The only thing is the side pods are a little different than the side pods that are used Alum. chassis. So there mite be some tight spot with the body hitting the chassis. I have all three bodies for the DEX210(Proline, Jconcepts and Stock Cab forward +8 body).
Dave
__________________
Sponsors: YuK-Foo Tire Prep
dragracer72nova is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 03:35 PM   #9359
Tech Master
 
fullsyzz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 1,569
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
Default

Speaking of Finnisher body's, I have a really nice custom painted one FOR SALE HERE!
fullsyzz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 04:50 PM   #9360
P6
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: il
Posts: 683
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
It fits, but its not perfect..The side pods on the +8 chassis has bumps that are not designed into the Finnisher..


Ti studs are stronger, but more $$. If you are concerned about breaking the steel ones, or have already, then thats your fix. I have been running the stock ballstuds and cups, and had no issues, no popoff's and very little play, maybe it has to do with pre-assembly. It has been mentioned plenty of times, but most use a 3mm tap before assembling them, and you can almost adjust them by hand..
no concern about breaking them thats why i want cheaper and the ones on my dex came with when i bough are purple turnbuckles and i did rebuild them with grease because they were tight but their popping im guessing partly from the pliers ridges on the sides that make the cup tear drop shaped and since its cold here i would preffer to leave some weak points so i dont make it to hard on F/R hubs or the steering knuckle
P6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
St Ives RC Club B4Bandit Australian Racing 16562 Yesterday 05:07 AM
EPMTs check in here. (a subsidiary of TNT) overtki11 Singapore R/C Racers 55470 05-07-2017 11:57 PM
Team Durango DEX410 ASH93A Australian Racing 925 04-08-2013 09:51 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:19 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net