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Old 12-21-2012, 07:27 AM   #9301
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
Well Im playing with 2 hole 1,3 in the fronts working really well, but Im indoors an a smooth carpet track.
Not sure youll wan 2 holes on bumpy tracks
4 hole would seem to have a wider range? for outdoor or rough tracks?
thinking thats were my testing would start
as for two hole front and maybe a 3 hole rear on really smooth prepped or carpet would be nimble!
thanks for the feedback
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:03 AM   #9302
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Well Im playing with 2 hole 1,3 in the fronts working really well, but Im indoors an a smooth carpet track.
Not sure youll wan 2 holes on bumpy tracks
We've had 2 holes in Cush's buggy for some time now and they have been very nice. Fairly smooth, super tacky clay track. 2 x1.6 front with 30-32.5 and 2 x 1.7 rear with 32.5-35 losi oils. Handles undulations in the track surface very well, but has enough high speed damping (pack) to allow harsh landings to be soaked up well without bottoming/bucking.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:12 AM   #9303
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Originally Posted by majorsmx521 View Post
Zipper
Heavy b and i would like to know your results?
2 hole 4 hole?
give us some feed back brother?!
from what i am seeing in set ups there dose not seem to be a sure thing for shocks?
oil wt/piston holes and size very from driver to driver?
wich is good! the buggy is good with most set ups? so driver style will play into set up a lot!
thanks
Rob
I have not tried 2 hole. Was interested as you guys are, so I asked a few pages back. It appears few people are trying 2 hole. So far there has not been enough feedback to convince me to try 2 hole. I currently run 4 hole 1.3 all around, and play with springs. I bought the complete Avid set, Durango set, and various Losi springs. So far Avid red rear, yellow front (Batch 1) seem to do a great job on various outdoor dirt tracks with a shorty pack. If anything, the set up may seem a little stiff with 35wt Losi oil in the front and 30wt Losi oil in the rear, but I find it to be a compromise. I run at one track track, that is very technical and fast, so the stiffer set up works well, and another with a large triple, where the dampening soaks up a lot.

I will be visiting an indoor track in the near future, that may require another set up. Im reading Losi and AE guys are using 2 hole 1.6 or 1.7. I may give one of those a try.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:13 AM   #9304
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
We've had 2 holes in Cush's buggy for some time now and they have been very nice. Fairly smooth, super tacky clay track. 2 x1.6 front with 30-32.5 and 2 x 1.7 rear with 32.5-35 losi oils. Handles undulations in the track surface very well, but has enough high speed damping (pack) to allow harsh landings to be soaked up well without bottoming/bucking.
Are the pistons tapered?
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:27 AM   #9305
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Whats the best way to increase rear traction. I am running RM3 with pretty much the box setup and a shorty in the middle with no added weight. I shifted the battery from front to back but it did not help with rear traction. I am running 3 degree rear toe and 3 degree kickup with the rear carriers in the mid position. I have the gear diff with 3k oil, will the ball diff be better for a slippery clay track. The Losi 22's I was running against seemed to have heaps of traction when I was sliping all over, we had the same tires. I wonder if i need to go back to the ball diff?
This is a loaded question that you will get lots of different answers to because without seeing your entire setup and knowing what the fast guys are using for tire, foam and traction compound it is really hard to know what the problem is. One thing I do know is that it is not the car, it is the setup, so don't get discouraged, you are just going to have to do some work to figure it out. The first thing I can tell you is the box setup is not good(in my opinion) for RM. I believe it is a setup based for the Mid Motor configuration, you would be better off copying one of the setups off Petit RC. I know that if you are runnig the shock setup from the box, that is probably 1/2 your problem, as that is not good(IMO) for what you are running. I also agree with the other guys that said find out about the tires the fast guys are using. Foam, tires, and traction compound(if any) are the most important place to start, because if they are wrong you will never fix your problem. Once you have determined that they are correct, I would post your setup here and let us evaluate which change we think will benefit you most.

If you want to do some tests to see if you can help yourself, I would try a couple of things. Assuming that your tires are not the problem; I would start by checking your rear camber. I like to run mine at around -1.5 deg. Look at the wear pattern you are getting on your tire and see if the contact patch is in the center of the tire. If it is, then you are in the ball bark, if it is off to the side, then you need to readjust.

The next thing is to change the rear toe to 3.5 deg. This will difinetly yield you more traction without too much negative affect. Expect that the buggy will feel like the rear doesn't rotate as well through the corner, but that is the trade off. After that you can try to move your hubs forward. This will absolutely give you more traction, especially forward bite, but once again it will have the same ill affect that the rear toe gives you, so it is a trade off.

You also should check your rear spring and shock setup, as if you are too stiff, this could also be your problem(as a matter of fact, I would check this before you mess with the rear toe or hubs). Does the buggy seem like the rear end is not settling or is it hopping(could be too stiff) or does it settle down immediately after an obsticle and look like it squats down and is planted(then it is probably good), these are the things you need to look at. Once you get your traction, you will probably find that the buggy is going to push, and that is the next thing that you will need to work on, and that can be compensated for without undoing these changes.

Hope that gives you some idea of how to attack your problem.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:39 AM   #9306
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I've been doing a little reading up on the car and noticed that a common upgrade is to get the Carbon Fiber shock towers. I noticed that the Tresrey are actually lowered 1mm and 2mm front and rear respectively, while the Exotech are not.

Can you guys share your experiences with each?

I know that I was helping Fred tune his DEX210 and decided to try laying the front shocks all the way down and the rear shocks down to a 4th hole that we drilled. This was on stock towers. That combined with an increase of antisquat improved his lap times a ton.

Interesting that almost every setup I have seen lists the shock positions in the middle hole on the towers.

Anyway, looking forward to playing with this car next month after CRCRC. I was considering running it there but I won't have any time at all on it as the kit probably won't be here until next week.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:56 AM   #9307
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Are the pistons tapered?
Yes, forgot to mention that. His buggy has the single taper pistons in it.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:04 AM   #9308
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I've been doing a little reading up on the car and noticed that a common upgrade is to get the Carbon Fiber shock towers. I noticed that the Tresrey are actually lowered 1mm and 2mm front and rear respectively, while the Exotech are not.

Can you guys share your experiences with each?

I know that I was helping Fred tune his DEX210 and decided to try laying the front shocks all the way down and the rear shocks down to a 4th hole that we drilled. This was on stock towers. That combined with an increase of antisquat improved his lap times a ton.

Interesting that almost every setup I have seen lists the shock positions in the middle hole on the towers.

Anyway, looking forward to playing with this car next month after CRCRC. I was considering running it there but I won't have any time at all on it as the kit probably won't be here until next week.
We had the Cream towers on the buggy since they came out and almost always ran 2mm under the front ballstud. When the Tresrey mounts came out we put them on and kept the setup the same otherwise. Our track is very high grip sticky clay, and wound up needing another .5mm to smooth out the steering and help with traction rolling. While we may not have needed the 1mm lower mount at our home track, it's certainly nice to be able to further tune the buggy when we travel to other tracks. And achieving the same height as stock simply means one more washer than the stock setting requires.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:27 AM   #9309
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
We had the Cream towers on the buggy since they came out and almost always ran 2mm under the front ballstud. When the Tresrey mounts came out we put them on and kept the setup the same otherwise. Our track is very high grip sticky clay, and wound up needing another .5mm to smooth out the steering and help with traction rolling. While we may not have needed the 1mm lower mount at our home track, it's certainly nice to be able to further tune the buggy when we travel to other tracks. And achieving the same height as stock simply means one more washer than the stock setting requires.
Interesting. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the height that they are referring to on the shock tower the mounting position? Or are you saying that the 1mm and 2mm lowered tower is actually the ball stud is lower?

I interpreted it as though the ball stud was the same, but the mounting positions at the top were lowered. Kind of like you used to see on 8th scales back in the day, 2 sets of holes on the tower to mount the shock, an upper and a lower. Is this incorrect?

From their site:
"Lower the shock mounting position 1mm down to reduce the role and to improve steering response. " <--front
"Lower the shock mounting position 2mm down to reduce the role and improve rear grip." <-- Rear

Also just remembered that the ballstud is independent of the tower so that just leads me to believe that the mounting holes are what was different. Anyway thanks for any feedback. I love reading and absorbing as much as I can
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:34 AM   #9310
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Interesting. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the height that they are referring to on the shock tower the mounting position? Or are you saying that the 1mm and 2mm lowered tower is actually the ball stud is lower?

I interpreted it as though the ball stud was the same, but the mounting positions at the top were lowered. Kind of like you used to see on 8th scales back in the day, 2 sets of holes on the tower to mount the shock, an upper and a lower. Is this incorrect?

From their site:
"Lower the shock mounting position 1mm down to reduce the role and to improve steering response. " <--front
"Lower the shock mounting position 2mm down to reduce the role and improve rear grip." <-- Rear

Also just remembered that the ballstud is independent of the tower so that just leads me to believe that the mounting holes are what was different. Anyway thanks for any feedback. I love reading and absorbing as much as I can
Hmmm.. I thought the ballstud mount had been lowered, but I could be wrong. We actually still have the Cream towers on, just got the new ballstud mounts. Now I'm gonna have to check into it.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:39 AM   #9311
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Hmmm.. I thought the ballstud mount had been lowered, but I could be wrong. We actually still have the Cream towers on, just got the new ballstud mounts. Now I'm gonna have to check into it.
It doesn't say anything on the product description on Tresrey's site for the Cream Tower.

Please let me know. I would think this is a pretty significant change if it is the shock positions and people are assuming it's the ball studs or vice versa.


One other question, has anyone played with AE big bore springs? I have most of them already and really liked them better than the Losi springs on my 4.1. Judging by the setups I have seen, Orange front Yellow rear seems to be a solid starting point for Losi springs.... That translates over to Brown and Green AE springs.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:07 AM   #9312
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Dose anybody know if there are any other differences between the kit or RTR minus electronics?
I see the next differences:
1) chassis - plastic tub or metal middle
2) Diff- Ball or Gear
3) Orange alum. spacers or plastic
4) body

any other differences?
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:15 PM   #9313
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Dose anybody know if there are any other differences between the kit or RTR minus electronics?
I see the next differences:
1) chassis - plastic tub or metal middle
2) Diff- Ball or Gear
3) Orange alum. spacers or plastic
4) body

any other differences?
I have bought the rtr for my sons Xmas present. The chassis is the std dimec version I'm led to believe, gear diff is supplied, plastic spacers throughout, can forward body for +8mm is supplied. The rear wing is also a different style compared to the std kit and is a thinner lexan. The parts needed to go mid motor such as extra bearings and idler gear shaft plus some fixings are also not included as far as I can see but I haven't opened the bags as its now wrapped up

Overall I'm really impressed with it for the money!
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:10 PM   #9314
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What kind of slipper set up is everyone running? i'm now running all stock running on high grip astro turf with a 8.5. It seems like some people are running the avid set up on there 22's locally, so I'm wondering if going to the AE high torque pads could be advantageous? Has anyone tried the HT pads or what would be the best pads to run? The vented slipper plates are a little pricy, do they help at all though? A local machinist can probably do the same thing on the stock plates without an issue.
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:27 PM   #9315
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There are other brand compatible mount?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...l-O-Ring-Set-8
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