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Old 12-18-2012, 10:42 AM   #9271
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Originally Posted by Atomicsickness View Post
Avid Yellow and Yellow on large outdoor medium traction track. I also run the DIMEC+8 and a Shorty.
are the yellows batch one or two?
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:53 AM   #9272
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are the yellows batch one or two?
Batch 2.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:15 AM   #9273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
This one I have is brand new , was something wrong with these from the factory? So after looking at the exploded view in the manual is the supplied layshaft spacer to short not allowing it to hold the inside slipper disc out far enough so as you tighten it doesn't create tension?
Ya it wont pinch the slipper plates enough. I would take a pic of it and email it to team durango if it is new, they would probably be more then happy to replace it for you.

How I fixed this temp while I waited on layshaft bracer is I put tape on the back of each slipper pad till it pinched enough.

**If anyone has a new layshaft spacer could you measure its length so WideOpen can have something to go off of in case the print isn't precise.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:21 AM   #9274
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Well I just ordered a couple, gonna pull everything apart while I wait for them to arrive. Really like the design concept of the buggy but if everything else looks fine and this doesn't solve the problem this baby is going down the road.
Try the temp fix while you wait by adding tape to the back of each slipper pad to extend it them out and it should allow you to drive while your waiting for them to come in.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:31 AM   #9275
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Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Well I just ordered a couple, gonna pull everything apart while I wait for them to arrive. Really like the design concept of the buggy but if everything else looks fine and this doesn't solve the problem this baby is going down the road.
I was tryin to think of a way of explaining what I am thinking the problem is but it's difficult.

The slipper plates are keyed - meaning they have to fit in the slot on the shaft properly. If you don't, it seems that things dont fit right and you can't tension the slipper properly.

Take a pic of the setup as you had it and maybe we can see better.

The back slipper plate ends up being REAL close to the motor plate (less than 1/8") when properly seated and you will have about 1-3mm of screw sticking out of the nut on the back side once snugged up.

This is one good and bad thing about this car - it's VERY precise but it's also a very advanced build. More often than not, I see people having problems due to build issues, rather than bad parts.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:33 AM   #9276
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Has anyone tried flipping the rear hubs around?

I did it on mine different from the manual and it seemed to help with the movement of the rear quite a bit.

You have to use a different ball stud though (the longer one), but it straightens out the link quite a bit.

This is just an FYI to the thread, because I've since changed to the Exotek rear hubs which mount from the top.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:49 AM   #9277
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Originally Posted by M3Man03 View Post
Has anyone tried flipping the rear hubs around?

I did it on mine different from the manual and it seemed to help with the movement of the rear quite a bit.

You have to use a different ball stud though (the longer one), but it straightens out the link quite a bit.

This is just an FYI to the thread, because I've since changed to the Exotek rear hubs which mount from the top.
I have seen people do this, I did it for a little while but had no advantage really other then straightening the link.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:49 PM   #9278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Man03 View Post
I was tryin to think of a way of explaining what I am thinking the problem is but it's difficult.

The slipper plates are keyed - meaning they have to fit in the slot on the shaft properly. If you don't, it seems that things dont fit right and you can't tension the slipper properly.

Take a pic of the setup as you had it and maybe we can see better.

The back slipper plate ends up being REAL close to the motor plate (less than 1/8") when properly seated and you will have about 1-3mm of screw sticking out of the nut on the back side once snugged up.

This is one good and bad thing about this car - it's VERY precise but it's also a very advanced build. More often than not, I see people having problems due to build issues, rather than bad parts.
I appreciate your response, the slipper pads are indeed in the correct spot, I can crank the nut down till the spring no longer compresses and the car still unloads under power, not saying I didn't make a build error as this is probably only my 3rd electric build but I raced nitro for 10 years and built at least 30 kits, I'm a machinist by trade so I tend to have an eye for the details . I'm going to pull it all apart tonight to inspect it but may try doubling up pads or the tape idea because no matter how much tension is on it it's not grabbing.
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:06 PM   #9279
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doubling them up wont work well unless you glue the pads together, they will slip from each other which will cause you to DNF in a race. That was my first mod to eliminate it. But if you do glue them it could work but then your loosing the other side you could use down the road once one side gets to glazed over.
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:55 PM   #9280
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Originally Posted by nolimit208 View Post
I have seen people do this, I did it for a little while but had no advantage really other then straightening the link.
Swapped my hubs around just to use straight ballcups....no performance/tuning gains
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:07 PM   #9281
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mine are switched also with a straight turnbuckle i did lightly tap the wall one day and the stud on the hub pushed into the next hole over it seemed the angle didnt help but its not built to slide into walls ether
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:55 PM   #9282
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Hi guys

Thought I would share some pics of my Dex210 Super Ranga

Went a bit overboard with red Tresrey,Lunsford and 8ight Racing Carbon parts.

Our PM is a red headed chick,so,Meet the Julia Spec Ranga

Enjoy
















This was it a month or so back,will post some pics of its current form after beating on it for a month
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:30 PM   #9283
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+8 mm Carbon chassis...worthy upgrade,more flex,more traction outdoors,all I run.Plus,its nearly on the 1500 weight limit with this.



Was ripping ballstuds out of the gearbox every heat...crap engineering and plastics,went for the Tresrey CF brace or the Rango was getting binned.



Electrics layout,REC sits vertically behind shorty,super neat,no wiring outside battery tray



Avid springs and Tresrey red spacers everywhere,new Hitec servo



Brass Ballstud mount 8ight racing CF V2 towers



TSR racing wheel nuts and clear shock seal sets with red bleeder screws....
The TSR seals are magic....just run a 4hr enduro on the weekend,probably run for 1 and half hrs,no leakage anywhere.they have already done 4 club days.
Ghea Tapered pistons inside shocks



The AE 12mm big bores spring retainers are the same...few colour and material options then.




Love the DEX210,but its definetly overrated in a few area's,strength being 1 of them.
I ripped probably 6-8 ballstuds out of the gearbox in 2 weekends.
The sidepod plastics are shit.Strip so easily,just from use.
The gearbox removal is a nightmare.
The arms and hub inserts slop out super quick compared to 2 yrs running a B4.1.
Can't handle the torque hit down low from Mod motors as well as a B4.1,it will twist the chassis up,the B4.1 just drives through the torque hit.

Shocks are awesome
Slipper is great
Balldiff is in another world,love it.
Steering is amazing,so much,and so sharp and slop free.
Now I have a setup on it,it flys,and will kick my B4.1s ass easily....
Incredible car in the air,can whip it hard,the torque hit that upsets the chassis on the ground can save some huge angles in the air,and level itself for the down ramp....

Now it is strong enough to deal with my 7.5 and my hack driving,it's unreal!! Faster,easier to drive,but far from stock,and super exxy!!
I LOVE THIS CAR!!!!!!!!
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Last edited by Peli; 12-18-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:34 PM   #9284
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Great looking car Peli, I was curious about those shock seals, did you use the x-ring style?.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:50 PM   #9285
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Great looking car Peli, I was curious about those shock seals, did you use the x-ring style?.
Thanks man...Have to give credit to the paint to Habib's Bodies.My scheme,his paint work.

The Orings are TSR "Pro Seal" Clear Series pure silicon seals.Part No OS100003-C
Normal round style,no x ring
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