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Old 12-16-2012, 11:38 PM   #9241
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ya just hack saw it and on the front just drill out the holes just a little bigger not much, and bevel the front facing sides to prevent it from catching on the ground.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:42 PM   #9242
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so much to learn from you, guys!
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:57 AM   #9243
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Nolimit, that is a great idea. I would like to know how much weight that added to your car. I would think that any weight loose would be regained by adding the braces just to keep the chassis from breaking. There is a team mate that uses the plasic chassis and they keep breaking on him. I will pass this idea along and hopefully he will be able to stay together.
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:15 AM   #9244
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Wow this might just solve the breaking plastic chassis




http://www.area52.cc/news/3129-rdrp-...m-chassis.html
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:11 AM   #9245
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Wow this might just solve the breaking plastic chassis




http://www.area52.cc/news/3129-rdrp-...m-chassis.html
Hmm, would like to get a better look at that, looks like they switched the pivot responsibilites around. Wonder if it'll be $34.99...probably not, huh? lol
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:21 AM   #9246
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Default very cool!!

[QUOTE=nolimit208;11563801]Here is the mod I did to the front and rear of my chassis to make it stronger since I seen some people posting pics of the chassis cracking.
The front you have to hone out the holes just a hair and then it snugs up. rear is direct bolt on.

Easy since you'll already have the alum Chassis.


i just did this will not be able to try for a bit?
are there any draww backs to adding the 2.5mm?
dont see any huge problems? how does it compare to reg chassis?
do you still keep the same grip?
thanks
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:23 AM   #9247
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Originally Posted by nolimit208 View Post
Here is the mod I did to the front and rear of my chassis to make it stronger since I seen some people posting pics of the chassis cracking.
The front you have to hone out the holes just a hair and then it snugs up. rear is direct bolt on.

Easy since you'll already have the alum Chassis.

This also makes it A LOT stiffer just FYI.
Damn thats genius!
I have been ready to make the move to the +8 chassis and wanted the stiffer dimec20 chassis but have been scared of it breaking in like 2 seconds lol. I may have to just do that mod. People are questioning weight but you are only putting weight in the LOWEST possible spot on the buggy in the rear. I have not really seen the breaking problem in the front. only the rear part of chassis.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:45 AM   #9248
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Seems the Losi & AE guys are going to 2-hole pistons. Has anyone tried those on their 210?
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:57 AM   #9249
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Seems the Losi & AE guys are going to 2-hole pistons. Has anyone tried those on their 210?
I have not. I have been very with 1.3 x 4.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:08 AM   #9250
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Originally Posted by Heavy B View Post
Seems the Losi & AE guys are going to 2-hole pistons. Has anyone tried those on their 210?
someone else just mentioned that ae and losi are using 6 hole so im pretty sure its just use what works for you im gonna buy 4 hole taper pistons and try along with the 6 holes that came with the kit so i can get a base setup
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:23 AM   #9251
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[QUOTE=majorsmx521;11564803]
Quote:
Originally Posted by nolimit208 View Post
Here is the mod I did to the front and rear of my chassis to make it stronger since I seen some people posting pics of the chassis cracking.
The front you have to hone out the holes just a hair and then it snugs up. rear is direct bolt on.

Easy since you'll already have the alum Chassis.


i just did this will not be able to try for a bit?
are there any draww backs to adding the 2.5mm?
dont see any huge problems? how does it compare to reg chassis?
do you still keep the same grip?
thanks

I have the Dimec and not the Dimec 20 so this mod made the buggy feel more like the Dimec20. I got added grip and buggy felt more consistent, I run on a med-high bite indoor clay (IRCR April Fools Track) so stiffer is better.

The 2.5mm addition CAN be a problem if you do not bevel the forward facing edges, it will catch if there isn't a slant there and throw your car around. I did it to both the rear piece and front piece to prevent this and haven't seen any issues with it yet.

As for the weight I'll have to weigh them both next time I am at the track dont have a digi scale here.

This also adds an additional tweak/adjustment point to the buggy. High bite smooth track keep bracers on. Track is blown out, remove bracers.

This is really easy to do and I recommend it, you also dont need to use as much material as I did. You can really just have the front piece bolt on to the bulk head only an the rear into the gearbox but I figured I wanted to start big then work my way down and found the added stiffness made a difference for the track conditions I run on.

As for the +11mm chassis. looks great but probably costs A LOT more then a Dimec/20 chassis though but does look very nice, they make some quality stuff!
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:30 AM   #9252
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Can someone do me a favor and measure the length of their slipper spring uncompressed? I'm having a issue with my new build, the car unloads on the carpet unless I ease into the throttle extremely gently. The diff feels like it should, I put a smaller aftermarket spur that recommended associated pads on it for stock gearing, thought that might be the issue but switched back to the included spur and pads but it still won't grab hard like it should. My spring measures 10.85mm long uncompressed, its strange even with 4 threads outside the back of the nut I can push the spur in towards the motor mounting plate and create a gap between the disc and pad.

Anyone??
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:39 AM   #9253
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Anyone??
mine is 11.84mm
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:59 AM   #9254
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While this is probably not it, I had that happen on my DESC. As funny as it sounds, the slipper plates weren't seated fully even though it looked like it was and would rotate properly. Took it apart and redid it all and works like a charm now. I also use the AE B4 slipper pads
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:28 PM   #9255
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Not too sure about the +11 chassis from RDRP, that makes it the same wheelbase length as a 22 and I know a couple guys who drive 22s and they use a -3 chassis.
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