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Old 12-14-2012, 09:07 PM   #9211
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Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
They are an upgrade, the stock shafts are in fact too long. The shock body doesn't even have enough uptravel for the shorter 52mm shafts which is why I run two of those shock stoppers for the rear.
I noticed when I originally built my kit that the pistons stuck out of the top of the shock body a little bit, and now with the ti shafts they are just below the top of the shock body.

The instructions don't call for any limiters.

I installed them back on my car with the shorter shaft and noticed even with the shorter shaft I am getting full travel on the arms. So it appears the stock shafts were in fact too long.
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:11 PM   #9212
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So how is the quality of the Durango gear diff? Reason I ask I that I destroyed my associates gear diff tonight.
I have never heard of or read of anyone destroying a Durango gear diff, so they must be pretty durable. As a consolation, I am still running the original ball diff that came with the kit. I built the buggy several months ago, and it's still buttery smooth.
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:39 AM   #9213
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I've been running gear diff.....with no problems...durango's gear diff is light years ahead of A.E.
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:04 AM   #9214
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Originally Posted by tedstryker View Post
I've been running gear diff.....with no problems...durango's gear diff is light years ahead of A.E.
I hope so. Lol. For some reason the after switching to a 7.5T motor my diffs don't seem to like it. The spider gears are wearing out and skipping. I tried to shim the inside of the diff tighter and the is not much extra room under the sun gears to shim it. I was only able to add .1 mm more and that only lasted a couple pack.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:09 AM   #9215
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Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
you can start with 32/72

download the manual from the durango site, the printed version has mistakes in it.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...ngoDEX210.html
has all types of build tips & setups.
Cspurlock: Thanks for the link, lots of info on the site!

The rest of you whining about me asking "the same" question sorry for any discomfort I may have caused.
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:30 PM   #9216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
Mine broke, dimec20, at the rear where the RR toe block bolts on. No hard crashes either like you mentioned. Besides that I one issue I was really liking the +8. Waiting for a new chassis to arrive and will give it one more chance before I go back to standard aluminum. I have a feeling this will be an area that no matter what will always break. All other buggies with plastic chassis have t-plates in this area to prevent this from happening or at least circumvent it when it does happen, just no way around it.

good luck man. i have a new dimec20 chassis just sitting. dont have the heart to try it again. i only get one play day a week! lol going to wait for durango or some aftermarket company to release a either updated verison or a metal chassis. hope it works out for ya. keep us posted!
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:37 PM   #9217
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Originally Posted by ehartman_49348 View Post
For those that had the DIMEC or DIMEC20 chassis break where either the RF or RR hinge pin blocks bolt in, did you use button head screws like outlined in the installation instructions? (http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...on-the-dex210/)
yes i used the button head screws.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:52 PM   #9218
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Updated setup sheet. Easy to drive and pretty forgiving.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...de20121214.pdf
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:45 PM   #9219
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Anybody tried 1.6x2 or 1.7x2 pistons yet? Seems to be catching on with the 22 and b4.1 big bore crowd.
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:53 AM   #9220
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:41 AM   #9221
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Ya I run 1.6x2 hole all around with losi oil 30/27.5 and losi green front spring and yellow rr spring
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:31 AM   #9222
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1.2 6-hole front, 1.3 6-hole on rear is the best combo Ive found.. just tune your oil to your liking.. im at 45 & 35
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:39 AM   #9223
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Default dimec t plate?

looking at the rear of the 210 chassis thinking, a quick fix would be to use
the stock alum chassis and cut it like a t plate
then bolt it over the dimec? its 2.5mm thick a little down fall?
but should stop the failures?
pros /cons?
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:14 AM   #9224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
Anybody tried 1.6x2 or 1.7x2 pistons yet? Seems to be catching on with the 22 and b4.1 big bore crowd.
i drilled out some stock durango pistons..1.6x2 and used them front and back with losi 25 in the back and losi 27.5 in the front...
it made my car very lazy and was really hard to drive fast.
so i swithced out to using the stock 6 hole pistons with all 6 holes drilled out to 54..running losi 35 in the back and losi 37.5 in the front..car feels super responsive with this piston/oil setup...maybe a little to responsive...
its like drving a tc on dirt....going to try a different piston setup soon and if i like it i will post on here again and let yall know what i think.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:23 AM   #9225
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Originally Posted by majorsmx521 View Post
looking at the rear of the 210 chassis thinking, a quick fix would be to use
the stock alum chassis and cut it like a t plate
then bolt it over the dimec? its 2.5mm thick a little down fall?
but should stop the failures?
pros /cons?
If you bevel the leading edge and use screws that are just a tad bit longer I don't see why it wouldn't work. Biggest downside is I've heard some people complain of skid plates making jumping inconsistent because sometimes it will catch the face of the jump and on landings.
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