R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree18Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-13-2012, 06:36 AM   #9181
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 73
Default

Where are you guys getting your gear diffs from for this buggy?? Seams like nobody has them in stock.
Pinionizer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 07:05 AM   #9182
Tech Master
 
zipperfoot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,113
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinionizer View Post
Where are you guys getting your gear diffs from for this buggy?? Seams like nobody has them in stock.
For some reason i have found Durango parts are on back order a lot. This lead to the sale of my 410 last year. Could not get parts. In their defense this year has been much better.

I get most of my parts from Amain. But as an example, they have had the red lower shock caps on back order for MONTHS. I ended up buying some on ebay, and paid a premium.

Edit: there are several gear diff sets for sale right now on ebay. Again prices are a bit higher.
__________________
If slow is fast, how come I'm still slow?
zipperfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 07:54 AM   #9183
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 2,460
Trader Rating: 109 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to kwiksi
Default

I have an awesome roller package in F/S thread if anyones looking...
kwiksi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 10:20 AM   #9184
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Omaha,NE
Posts: 2,548
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P6 View Post
are the outdrives moving from each other or u mean the gear moving with the outdrives tight and not moving ,in that case its normal the diff gear isnt as thick as the 3mm balls so their is gonna be play as long as its smooth and not barking you dont have a problem , its usually not smooth from the rings or balls being bad or having a bad spot on them, the clip you will notice the inconstant feeling ive noticed that most dont know until they drive and feel somethings wrong its hard to feel by hand just double check which way you put it in first and problem solved
Ok so the play I experience between the gear and the outdrives must be normal, I can physically hold the outdrives and rock the gear back and forth. The snap ring was installed correctly but may have been over compressed, I have some new ones but haven't had a chance to install them yet. What I don't understand is that even with the diff tightened enough to where the tires won't make a 1/2 revolution spinning by hand the the slipper cranked waaaaay down it will still unload under power before it starts the car moving forward. If I really ease into it it won't slip but any usual trigger input it stays still and unloads. Every case of the snap ring issue I've heard of was it runs fine for a while then just stops, I can't even get fine for one throttle pull.
WideOpenThrottle RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 10:30 AM   #9185
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: HB, CA
Posts: 715
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Ok so the play I experience between the gear and the outdrives must be normal, I can physically hold the outdrives and rock the gear back and forth. The snap ring was installed correctly but may have been over compressed, I have some new ones but haven't had a chance to install them yet. What I don't understand is that even with the diff tightened enough to where the tires won't make a 1/2 revolution spinning by hand the the slipper cranked waaaaay down it will still unload under power before it starts the car moving forward. If I really ease into it it won't slip but any usual trigger input it stays still and unloads. Every case of the snap ring issue I've heard of was it runs fine for a while then just stops, I can't even get fine for one throttle pull.
Something is definately wrong from what you described. Put it on a table with the front of the buggy facing away from you. Then put one hand on one the right tire and hold your radio in the other and put it on top of the other tire to hold it still and pull the throttle for a short 1 sec blip. You should hear either the slipper slipping which will be a smooth high pitch whine or the diff barking which will be rough and sound almost like metal grinding. Start there and tell me what you hear. Also tell me if the front tires lift off the table at all when you do this.
__________________
MBX6-ECO, B5m
Cspurlock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 10:36 AM   #9186
P6
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: il
Posts: 683
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Ok so the play I experience between the gear and the outdrives must be normal, I can physically hold the outdrives and rock the gear back and forth. The snap ring was installed correctly but may have been over compressed, I have some new ones but haven't had a chance to install them yet. What I don't understand is that even with the diff tightened enough to where the tires won't make a 1/2 revolution spinning by hand the the slipper cranked waaaaay down it will still unload under power before it starts the car moving forward. If I really ease into it it won't slip but any usual trigger input it stays still and unloads. Every case of the snap ring issue I've heard of was it runs fine for a while then just stops, I can't even get fine for one throttle pull.
yes that's the normal play did you break it in using a drill sand the rings i like using the motor and buggy to break it in it seems faster and easier and its really smooth, compress the spring a couple times, my first build i had the ring backwards and i ruined the steel diff balls pretty easy and i had a problem with an old diff spring to i stay around 1 turn from all the way tight with a new spring carbide diff balls and new rings
P6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 10:40 AM   #9187
Tech Regular
 
M3Man03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 448
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ehartman_49348 View Post
For those that had the DIMEC or DIMEC20 chassis break where either the RF or RR hinge pin blocks bolt in, did you use button head screws like outlined in the installation instructions? (http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...on-the-dex210/)
+1 to this!

While it looks like a flat head, it's not. I broke one doing this the wrong way.

Use button head screws.

This, the ball cups and the diff is the most commonly mistakes made in the Durango chassis
__________________
Team Durango DESC210R / DEX210 / DEX410 / DETC410 / SJF01-F1 / Tamiya 416x / TE-Maxx 3.3 / OFNA DM-1e
M3Man03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 10:42 AM   #9188
Tech Regular
 
M3Man03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 448
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Ok so the play I experience between the gear and the outdrives must be normal, I can physically hold the outdrives and rock the gear back and forth. The snap ring was installed correctly but may have been over compressed, I have some new ones but haven't had a chance to install them yet. What I don't understand is that even with the diff tightened enough to where the tires won't make a 1/2 revolution spinning by hand the the slipper cranked waaaaay down it will still unload under power before it starts the car moving forward. If I really ease into it it won't slip but any usual trigger input it stays still and unloads. Every case of the snap ring issue I've heard of was it runs fine for a while then just stops, I can't even get fine for one throttle pull.
I read your post previous to this and it's not correct. There shouldn't be any play with the outdrives as you mentioned. Something's definitely not right.

Most likely something is causing too much extra spacing between the outdrives. Sometimes you don't have the rings seated correctly - the flat part isn't lined up and the ring isn't flush with the outdrive.

Any pictures you can take of it would help!
__________________
Team Durango DESC210R / DEX210 / DEX410 / DETC410 / SJF01-F1 / Tamiya 416x / TE-Maxx 3.3 / OFNA DM-1e
M3Man03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 10:52 AM   #9189
Tech Master
 
Atomicsickness's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Dacula, GA
Posts: 1,604
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Ok so the play I experience between the gear and the outdrives must be normal, I can physically hold the outdrives and rock the gear back and forth. The snap ring was installed correctly but may have been over compressed, I have some new ones but haven't had a chance to install them yet. What I don't understand is that even with the diff tightened enough to where the tires won't make a 1/2 revolution spinning by hand the the slipper cranked waaaaay down it will still unload under power before it starts the car moving forward. If I really ease into it it won't slip but any usual trigger input it stays still and unloads. Every case of the snap ring issue I've heard of was it runs fine for a while then just stops, I can't even get fine for one throttle pull.
Are you sure that there is a washer in place between the 2 bearings inside the diff?
__________________
☆http://www.loganvillerc.com☆
☆http://hotshotrc.com/☆
Atomicsickness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 10:53 AM   #9190
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,842
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P6 View Post
yes that's the normal play did you break it in using a drill sand the rings i like using the motor and buggy to break it in it seems faster and easier and its really smooth, compress the spring a couple times, my first build i had the ring backwards and i ruined the steel diff balls pretty easy and i had a problem with an old diff spring to i stay around 1 turn from all the way tight with a new spring carbide diff balls and new rings
The rings can be used on both sides- they do not have a specific "correct" side. As long as the flat on the ID of the ring is lined up with the corresponding flat on the outdrive there is no issue. I would bet that the diff was over tightened with out being broken in and that wrecked the stock balls, or that it was too loose and they slipped to the point of being roached.
__________________
Serpent America/Desoto Racing- www.serpentamerica.com
TrakPower Speed Equipment- www.trakpowerusa.com
B Fast RC Performance- www.bfastrc.com
Futaba | Strictly R/C- Norridge, IL
Thank you all for the help and support!
Jonny5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 04:10 PM   #9191
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Omaha,NE
Posts: 2,548
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Ok, can't quote anyone as there to many responses to my problem post, but thats a good thing. I built the diff exactly as the build video suggested to a T with the exception of the snap ring pliers, I over compressed it then stretched it back out and installed it. Now before I did anything to the diff I tightened the diff screw so that the outdrives were just barely to tight to turn by hand, I noticed that when tight their seemed to be excessive slop between the rings and the gear. If I hold the outdrives I can rock the gear back and forth creating a gap on the inner outside portion of the gear depending which way I'm putting pressure on it, actually a little diff lube that the balls were coated in comes out around the edge. It feels as though they are not pulled up tight to each other against the balls and yes the washer is in between the two bearings.
I just tested it on the carpet in the basement and it sounds as though it has a high pitch whine, the diff feels smooth and it is as tight as any diff that I would throw on the track to begin breaking it in. I did use a after market spur gear for stock gearing which calls for Associated slipper pads, but even with the slipper tightened as far as the spring will compress it still slips on the carpet and will not raise the tires up in front with the wheels held down by hand on the bench. I'm leaning more towards a slipper issue now as the diff feels smooth unless I'm missing something, I've only built a few electric kits and raced them for a short time but I've been racing nitro for years so some of this is a little new for me, trying to tell how to differentiate between a diff and a slipper issue.
WideOpenThrottle RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 05:19 PM   #9192
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: HB, CA
Posts: 715
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

WOT,
A bunch of stuff sounds weird.
1st off you say you tightened the diff till the outdrives wont turn withyour hand? I how you meant that the gear won't turn like the video shows you because if you tightened it so that the outdrives won't turn...WOW! that is your problem.

2nd if the 1st isnt the problem, the way you describe their being slop after you tightened the diff and it seemed like the rings aren't sitting down properly isn't correct either, so that is the next thing to look into.

3rd if all the above isn't the problem, then yes I would agree the slipper may be your culprit. you should not be tighening it all the way down for starters, so if that is the case, dump the aftermarket spur, put the stock gear and slipper pads back in and try it again to see if you can get it to work normal. If you can, then go back and figure out what is going on with your aftermarket stuff.
__________________
MBX6-ECO, B5m
Cspurlock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 05:48 PM   #9193
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Omaha,NE
Posts: 2,548
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
WOT,
A bunch of stuff sounds weird.
1st off you say you tightened the diff till the outdrives wont turn withyour hand? I how you meant that the gear won't turn like the video shows you because if you tightened it so that the outdrives won't turn...WOW! that is your problem.

2nd if the 1st isnt the problem, the way you describe their being slop after you tightened the diff and it seemed like the rings aren't sitting down properly isn't correct either, so that is the next thing to look into.

3rd if all the above isn't the problem, then yes I would agree the slipper may be your culprit. you should not be tighening it all the way down for starters, so if that is the case, dump the aftermarket spur, put the stock gear and slipper pads back in and try it again to see if you can get it to work normal. If you can, then go back and figure out what is going on with your aftermarket stuff.
Let me rephrase, while assembling the diff initially while it is out of the car the video states to slowly tighten the diff screw while rotating the outdrives with your fingers. It states to do this to the point of not being able to turn them with finger pressure. Install the diff in the tranny then mount it in the car. Then with the wheels on I could spin the wheels and they would freewheel before stopping about 2 full turns which is loose, so tightening the diff in 1/8-1/4 increments while holding one tire and giving like 25 percent throttle for ten seconds alternating back and forth a couple times to seat the balls, I continued doing this tightening in between break in sessions until the wheels would only spin about 1/2 a revolution which is where I have broken in other diffs on the track. Since everything is still assembled I think I will put on the stock spur and pads and try that to see if it eliminates anything before I pull everything apart.
WideOpenThrottle RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 06:26 PM   #9194
Tech Regular
 
Azagar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Bay Area
Posts: 293
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Man03 View Post
+1 to this!

While it looks like a flat head, it's not. I broke one doing this the wrong way.

Use button head screws.
I had button head screws and it still broke.
__________________
Team Durango DEX210
Avid | AKA | Exotek | Jconcepts | KO Propo | Lunsford | Tekin | Turnigy Nano-tech
Azagar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 06:48 PM   #9195
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: HB, CA
Posts: 715
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Let me rephrase, while assembling the diff initially while it is out of the car the video states to slowly tighten the diff screw while rotating the outdrives with your fingers. It states to do this to the point of not being able to turn them with finger pressure.
What you are actuall supposed to do is put an allen wrench through the slot in the outdrive where the dogbone would go. Do the same to the other side. You do this so that you have something to hold onto that has leverage.
Then you take your thumb and index finger and spin the main gear while holding the outdrives stationary with the allen wrenches. You want to slowly tighten the diff screw until you can't turn the main gear. This is the starting point in which you should put the diff in the car. This is just a good method to use to insure that you don't overtighten the diff, which is the one thing that you don't want to do while assembling it because you can damage the balls and plates.

Then you put it in the car and continue to pretty much do the method that you did. Sounds like you ended up with the correct result by accident, so you may still be ok. I would do as you indicated and check your slipper as I agree no need to take your diff apart until you check your slipper. Sounds to me like it may be the problem. I suspect the spur gear has a problem or possibly you have something incorrect with the slipper gear assembly. I have read somewhere I believe in this thread where someone once had the wrong size slipper spring sent in their kit. This could cause the slipper to slip as you are describing, so keep that in mind as you are troubleshooting it.

good luck.
__________________
MBX6-ECO, B5m
Cspurlock is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
St Ives RC Club B4Bandit Australian Racing 16562 Today 05:07 AM
EPMTs check in here. (a subsidiary of TNT) overtki11 Singapore R/C Racers 55470 05-07-2017 11:57 PM
Team Durango DEX410 ASH93A Australian Racing 925 04-08-2013 09:51 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:44 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net