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Old 12-12-2012, 06:40 AM   #9166
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Originally Posted by M3Armand View Post
+1 I'm about to install the gear diff since I'm tired of readjusting...
I refuse to give up that easily lol, I ordered some more snap rings from mcmaster car and will give it another go I guess. Thing that seemed odd to me is that when assembled per the durango video I could hold the assembled diff by the gear and rock the outdrives back in forth like the faces of each diff side weren't pulled tight up against the gear but everything was tight enough that the outdrives wouldn't spin by hand. That issue there I wouldn't think would have anything to do with how the snap ring was installed.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:00 AM   #9167
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I refuse to give up that easily lol, I ordered some more snap rings from mcmaster car and will give it another go I guess. Thing that seemed odd to me is that when assembled per the durango video I could hold the assembled diff by the gear and rock the outdrives back in forth like the faces of each diff side weren't pulled tight up against the gear but everything was tight enough that the outdrives wouldn't spin by hand. That issue there I wouldn't think would have anything to do with how the snap ring was installed.
are the outdrives moving from each other or u mean the gear moving with the outdrives tight and not moving ,in that case its normal the diff gear isnt as thick as the 3mm balls so their is gonna be play as long as its smooth and not barking you dont have a problem , its usually not smooth from the rings or balls being bad or having a bad spot on them, the clip you will notice the inconstant feeling ive noticed that most dont know until they drive and feel somethings wrong its hard to feel by hand just double check which way you put it in first and problem solved
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:42 AM   #9168
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Thanks for posting set up sheets guys. This really helps, but man the set ups are all over the place. Just goes to show how adjustable this buggy is. My set up is nowhere near the recent posts.

Question. The front steering rack has three sets of holes. I have the ball studs mounted in the center holes. What does mounting them forward or back do to the steering?

The reason i ask is because on my radio i am running a bit of negative expo in the steering to calm things down a bit, and wondered if i could do the same thing using another steering rack position.
forward = aggressive
back = passive
Center is what most people run.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:42 AM   #9169
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hey if any of you have a friend with a DEX210 that wants to try a 4.1, have them PM me. I'm looking for a 210 and have a few 4.1's
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:51 AM   #9170
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Default MM chassis

For anybody running MM on indoor clay:

I have spent a lot of time testing 2 side by side identical buggys, one with dimec and one with dimec20 trying to decide which chassis I think works better with my setup on my track. I was surprised to find that the dmec worked better. I was expecting the opposite, but found that the added flexibility in the chassis made the buggy feel more forgiving when the car got out of shape and also felt more consistant throghout the whole track. Since my track is relatively smooth and well groomed, I would have expected the stiffer chassis to work better, but it did not. I am not sure if this would translate into other style tracks or even to RM, but it definatley was a noticeable difference.

I now have a prototype +8 alum chassis that I am going to test, so I will share what I find when I am done.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:13 PM   #9171
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Default dimec chassis no good.

anybody have the dimec chassis break on them yet? i did. the rear end of that chassis seems to be very weak. no major crash or nothing. how is the new longer chassis working out for u guys?
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:22 PM   #9172
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Mine broke, dimec20, at the rear where the RR toe block bolts on. No hard crashes either like you mentioned. Besides that I one issue I was really liking the +8. Waiting for a new chassis to arrive and will give it one more chance before I go back to standard aluminum. I have a feeling this will be an area that no matter what will always break. All other buggies with plastic chassis have t-plates in this area to prevent this from happening or at least circumvent it when it does happen, just no way around it.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:07 PM   #9173
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Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
forward = aggressive
back = passive
Center is what most people run.
Ah ha! Thanks for the info. I actually had them mounted forward. No wonder the steering was so agressive.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:51 PM   #9174
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Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
Mine broke, dimec20, at the rear where the RR toe block bolts on. No hard crashes either like you mentioned. Besides that I one issue I was really liking the +8. Waiting for a new chassis to arrive and will give it one more chance before I go back to standard aluminum. I have a feeling this will be an area that no matter what will always break. All other buggies with plastic chassis have t-plates in this area to prevent this from happening or at least circumvent it when it does happen, just no way around it.
you could all ways get the +8mm carbon chassis as i really like mine even better then the plastic plus 8 chassis

i now have 2 x standard alum chassis hanging on the wall as i wont be going back any time soon
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:13 PM   #9175
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you could all ways get the +8mm carbon chassis as i really like mine even better then the plastic plus 8 chassis

i now have 2 x standard alum chassis hanging on the wall as i wont be going back any time soon
Who's making a carbon +8 chassis?
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:46 PM   #9176
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8-racing was but they stopped temporarily, I think, because the chassis were breaking in the same area as the dimec.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:47 PM   #9177
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Originally Posted by Oasis View Post
Who's making a carbon +8 chassis?
8-Racing make a standard and +8 carbon chassis http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...ng-dex210.html
They have released a V2, hopefully that fixes the issues people were having.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:57 PM   #9178
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Good morning, from Mallorca, the +8 of 8 Racing I have break it on the front antisquat, it flex too much, but in the new one I bought I have reinforced with some Kevlar and it works really good.

Details

8-Racing DEX210 Carbon Fiber +8mm "Version 2" Main ChassisManufactured out of high quality carbon fiber. 8-Racing carbon fiber +8mm Version 2 chassis has been updated to add additional strength the the front while still maintaining a 55% decreased in overall weight of the DEX210. Chassis weight alone is 49% lighter than the standard DEX210 composite main chassis. Carbon fiber chassis also tends to offer a "softer" responsiveness which helps improves rear traction on low bite racing surfaces.

Nice solution Mr. Martin!! I didn't know yet!
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:29 AM   #9179
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My +8 8 racing carbon chassis broke as well, and at 100$ a pop I'm not inclined to buy another, not when the plastic chassis is 1/3 the cost.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:09 AM   #9180
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For those that had the DIMEC or DIMEC20 chassis break where either the RF or RR hinge pin blocks bolt in, did you use button head screws like outlined in the installation instructions? (http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...on-the-dex210/)
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