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Old 12-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #9151
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Hay guys,

i am looking at buying the 210 what are some parts that i should look at buying when i order the car besides the normal wear parts and another diff?

Thanks, Zane
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:03 PM   #9152
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Originally Posted by zanernator View Post
Hay guys,

i am looking at buying the 210 what are some parts that i should look at buying when i order the car besides the normal wear parts and another diff?

Thanks, Zane
I've been running one for about 1.5 mos now no broken parts.. I did pop 1 ball when I got into some pipe. I've seen a few people break front hubs.. thats about it.

Upgrades from the get go.. exotek alum bulk, exotek rear hex's, exotek front chassis weight Thats about it Just posted my setup sheet a bit back, it's dialed on a med bite clay track.
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:40 PM   #9153
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Guys, think I'm experiencing the dreaded c clip issue. Just completed my build and was running the buggy around on the carpet with very light throttle and with the diff feeling snug and the slipper tightened down it still unloads for a while before taking off under power, off the bench seems fine but under load it slips. When I assembled it I forgot to grab snap ring pliers from work so just used the tools that I had which bent the snap ring a bit, I straightened it out and installed it but wondering if thats the culprit. Where is your guys slipper nut in relation to the threads on the shaft after a rebuild? Thanks
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:13 PM   #9154
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Originally Posted by Walkman View Post
I run MM4 on carpet and my stating point is this setup. Dialed!

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...und2012042022/
What would be the shock oil conversion in this setup if using let say Losi shock oil?
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:20 PM   #9155
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Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post
The sale that Hobbico/Great Planes was having is over, so the price is back to normal. I got mine last night w/free tshirt, imperial front axles, and DEX410 rear wheel cones for $201 shipped after using a $50 off coupon code.

Just in time..

That being said, what's a recommended starting setup for a dusty, bumpy, blown out 1/8th scale track? I looked at setups on the Durango site, but they don't really give a description of the track conditions unless you download and open each setup sheet.
Here is a setup I used on a large 1/8 scale track back in Aug or when ever, I think its all correct. I would probably start with a little more ride height though 22 fr/rr. The car was on rails compared to everyone else but ballcups kept popping off after a couple of laps in, in a haggard rhythm section, so I would also recommend updating those asap to some other cheapo's, I did the losi's.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...lCity20120702/
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:28 PM   #9156
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What would be the shock oil conversion in this setup if using let say Losi shock oil?
I have 27.5 Losi in the rear and 50 AE in the front.
This should get you close.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Shock Oil Comparison Chart.pdf (116.2 KB, 133 views)
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:31 PM   #9157
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Originally Posted by The Czechexican View Post
What would be the shock oil conversion in this setup if using let say Losi shock oil?
Hers is a conversion chart from durango that may help you out.

http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...on%20Chart.pdf

Edit - Beaten by Walkman as I found my link - LOL

Last edited by mister_g; 12-11-2012 at 06:33 PM. Reason: One upped - lol
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:51 PM   #9158
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Awsome! This is what I been looking for. Thanks Walkman and Mister G
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:59 PM   #9159
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Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post

That being said, what's a recommended starting setup for a dusty, bumpy, blown out 1/8th scale track? I looked at setups on the Durango site, but they don't really give a description of the track conditions unless you download and open each setup sheet.
Check this one out.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...eline20120603/
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:01 PM   #9160
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Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Guys, think I'm experiencing the dreaded c clip issue. Just completed my build and was running the buggy around on the carpet with very light throttle and with the diff feeling snug and the slipper tightened down it still unloads for a while before taking off under power, off the bench seems fine but under load it slips. When I assembled it I forgot to grab snap ring pliers from work so just used the tools that I had which bent the snap ring a bit, I straightened it out and installed it but wondering if thats the culprit. Where is your guys slipper nut in relation to the threads on the shaft after a rebuild? Thanks
+1 I'm about to install the gear diff since I'm tired of readjusting...
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:12 PM   #9161
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Originally Posted by Walkman View Post
I have 27.5 Losi in the rear and 50 AE in the front.
This should get you close.
Wow. 27.5 in the rear? Any weight in the front or rear? Does the rear end roll?
I have been trying to take the roll out of the rear. It rolls then spins. Ive been trying to calm it down. Does the hevy weight oil up front help. I have 40 up front with the light brown springs and 1.3 4 hole pistons and I have 21 grams up front and I cant get it down to ride height. I to have been using this set up with some tweeks. I been trying to get high roll center in the rear. My links are all the way out and shocks lay down all the way. Tried putting 4 mm under the inner ball studs too.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:26 PM   #9162
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Originally Posted by The Czechexican View Post
Wow. 27.5 in the rear? Any weight in the front or rear? Does the rear end roll?
I have been trying to take the roll out of the rear. It rolls then spins. Ive been trying to calm it down. Does the hevy weight oil up front help. I have 40 up front with the light brown springs and 1.3 4 hole pistons and I have 21 grams up front and I cant get it down to ride height. I to have been using this set up with some tweeks. I been trying to get high roll center in the rear. My links are all the way out and shocks lay down all the way. Tried putting 4 mm under the inner ball studs too.
I have my ride height at 19mm front and rear, and 7grams next to reciever and 7 grams next to ESC. I'm running Panther slicks with Proline closed cell from foams in the fronts, and Panther 1/8 scale closed cells cut down in the rear, and battery to the back. I will try to post a complete setup sheet tomorrow.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:39 PM   #9163
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Originally Posted by The Czechexican View Post
I been trying to get high roll center in the rear. My links are all the way out and shocks lay down all the way. Tried putting 4 mm under the inner ball studs too.
If you are putting shims under the inner camber links and raising them on the rear then you are actually getting a lower roll center.
But I believe you are going in the right direction. Just the wrong terminology.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #9164
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Originally Posted by zanernator View Post
Hay guys,

i am looking at buying the 210 what are some parts that i should look at buying when i order the car besides the normal wear parts and another diff?

Thanks, Zane
It's pretty sturdy stock, I would get the dime 20 chassis (+8), ti shock shafts, a few sets of springs, I'm running 14 grams of weight behind the servo (stick on) and my buggy is dialed..me not so much but the Durango is freakin awesome! Best thing I ever did was putting the +8 chassis on it..
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:07 AM   #9165
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Thanks for posting set up sheets guys. This really helps, but man the set ups are all over the place. Just goes to show how adjustable this buggy is. My set up is nowhere near the recent posts.

Question. The front steering rack has three sets of holes. I have the ball studs mounted in the center holes. What does mounting them forward or back do to the steering?

The reason i ask is because on my radio i am running a bit of negative expo in the steering to calm things down a bit, and wondered if i could do the same thing using another steering rack position.
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