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Old 11-23-2012, 11:28 PM   #8866
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
Id like to know what buggy you guys drove before coming to the 210, and what brought you to the 210.

After an RC vacation I came back in 2011, and started with the Losi 22. I could not drive the 22 to save my life. It was like no matter what I did, I just could not get it to hook up. I loved the car quality wise, it felt really stable, but I was slower than I have ever been.

I then tried the B4.1 Worlds. Great car, but it always felt a little light to me no matter how much weight I added. My lap times were much improved, but I never felt confident. I was running the buggy during the big bore spring craze. After converting to hexes, springs, etc., the buggy did feel pretty good but still a bit jittery for me.

The 210 is the best of all three in my opinion. The stability of the 22, the agility and turning of the B4.1, and the balanced feel you get from the 210. I feel like I can throw the car around the track and it will not let me down. The only negative for me is the ball cups. At first they were fine, but after one started popping off, the rest seemed to follow.

Also, things others have mentioned that were issues have all came to pass for me. Upgrade the RF hinge pin brace to metal, the steering rack brace with carbon or metal, and get the carbon rear brace that Tresrey sells to get the rear inner ball studs off the tranny and you will be bullet proof. I promise.

I describe my driving style as a "go for the triple with a 13.5" kind of driver. As a result, I have had some spectacular crashes and the 210 has proven to be very durable and fun to drive.
This is why I'm going Durango next. I've always been a bit of a Losi fanboy but my 22 always felt like it was just too forgiving and lazy. It was durable and I won a lot of races with it but always felt there was more to be had. Never really liked the B4.1 in looks and from trying friends and the DEX210 seams like a good compromise between the Losi and Associated.
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:25 AM   #8867
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I went with the 210 because my LHS had one in and gave it to me with $40.00 bucks off!
lol. But anyways Im glad I did! I run on carpet so the mid motor works great.
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Last edited by The Czechexican; 11-25-2012 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:24 AM   #8868
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Id like to know what buggy you guys drove before coming to the 210, and what brought you to the 210.
I started with a B4.1, bought a 22, won a RB5, bought the 210, sold the 210, bought a new 210 kit, sold the 22. LOL. The 210 just feels planted and it flies almost effortlessly through bumps. It's kind of hard to describe, and I know setup has a lot to do with it.

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The only negative for me is the ball cups. At first they were fine, but after one started popping off, the rest seemed to follow.
YES YES YES, WHY!?!?!?!?! I finally got my 210 to the track last night, two popped ball cups. I don't think I have ever popped a cup off ANY other car. I can barely make adjustments without popping them off even with trying to jam two wrenches through the holes. I mean seriously!!!!! People had posted a solution by using rpm cups and TC6.1 studs (I think) I have to look it up. I built the car over a month ago and was only finally able to get it on the track for it's first runs yesterday. Now I am wishing I had taken care of the problem a month ago!!
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:32 AM   #8869
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I like the way it handles in the air over jumps... some 2WD 1/10 buggies don't generate enough rotation to make adjustments in the air. I haven't had any of those issues.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:35 AM   #8870
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YES YES YES, WHY!?!?!?!?! I finally got my 210 to the track last night, two popped ball cups. I don't think I have ever popped a cup off ANY other car. I can barely make adjustments without popping them off even with trying to jam two wrenches through the holes. I mean seriously!!!!! People had posted a solution by using rpm cups and TC6.1 studs (I think) I have to look it up. I built the car over a month ago and was only finally able to get it on the track for it's first runs yesterday. Now I am wishing I had taken care of the problem a month ago!!
Here ya go!

ASC31293 (long head 10mm thread)
X2 front shock tower
X4 front hubs
X2 rear gearbox

short head:
x2 Ackerman plate 8mm ASC31289
x2 rear hubs 10mm ASC31290

So to do redo everything on my dex210 I ordered
ASC31293 x 4
ASC31289 x 1
ASC31290 x 1
Associated Setup W/ JC ball cups PN: 2026
Associated B4 Ti Turnbuckle set: PN: ASC1282
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:52 AM   #8871
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I have some 4.3mm ball studs and ball cups for sale...check it out
Tons of stuff FS - tools/charger/pinions/oils/etc
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:52 AM   #8872
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Default Ball cup solution

With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles

1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on

With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:47 AM   #8873
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thanks guys for all your input about my question.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:54 AM   #8874
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thanks guys for all your input about my question.
That's why we are here, I was glad I got my question re-answered!! I tried the whole using a drill thing the break in the cups, that certainly helped adjustment a bit, but they still seem to pop very easily. It doesn't seem to be from the force of impact, but more the angle. They definitely come off waaaaaay easier than any other car I own. But that is my only worry now, the rest of the car is great. I just hate barely clipping a turn and just hoping it wasn't enough to pop a cup. It just adds to the already nervous feeling of racing.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:34 PM   #8875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OU812_77 View Post
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles

1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on

With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.

Hope this helps
This is a proven methood to building these turnbuckles and it only works with brand new ball cups.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:16 PM   #8876
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This is a proven methood to building these turnbuckles and it only works with brand new ball cups.
You can also use a 3mm tap.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:35 PM   #8877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OU812_77 View Post
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles

1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on

With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.

Hope this helps
Rather than a body reamer to open up the end on the ballcup I like to use a drill bit- one that is just about the size of the shank on the turnbuckle. The shank going into the ballcup is the biggest reason the ballcups pop off as it is larger in diameter than the threads, so it is noticeably tighter in the ballcup.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:51 PM   #8878
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Originally Posted by P6 View Post
so it comes with a gear diff ? and what electronics does the rtr have , my price came in around $550 not rtr or kit build it ground up but itll be a track ready desc210 just because electronics and a few upgrades
Yes gear diff, the esc is a Speed Passion Citrix Club spec, its a sensored esc with a 9.5 motor limit. Motor is a sealed, no timing 13.5. I bumped up the gearing a tooth or two and it was plenty fast on my local indoor tracks. Servo and radio were ok too.

Plus the car comes with an 81 tooth spur. All 210s should
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:04 PM   #8879
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Originally Posted by joelwhite View Post
Yes gear diff, the esc is a Speed Passion Citrix Club spec, its a sensored esc with a 9.5 motor limit. Motor is a sealed, no timing 13.5. I bumped up the gearing a tooth or two and it was plenty fast on my local indoor tracks. Servo and radio were ok too.

Plus the car comes with an 81 tooth spur. All 210s should
thank you very much im sure theirs others wondering the same thing to
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:20 PM   #8880
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Default Wheels Binding

sup guys, having a binding problem when i tighten the wheels nuts on the rear tires. the left is passable i guess but the right rear get extremely tight. i heard about a shimm trick. have any of you had this problem and if so how did you fix it? appreicate any info. thx
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