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Old 11-16-2012, 10:04 PM   #8776
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Ive set the diff so that the gear dosent spin when the outdrives are held. The driveshaft still rubs on the t-nut though.....
The ears on the diff nut should be within about 1mm of bottoming out on the outdrive. The diff screw will feel tight when you're threading it in well before the diff is actually tight, just work the diff as you tighten it to make sure it doesn't lock up. I like to use a drill to work it in as I tighten it.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:12 PM   #8777
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Ive set the diff so that the gear dosent spin when the outdrives are held. The driveshaft still rubs on the t-nut though.....
I've seen people complain about this b4, it always ends up that they found something wrong with how they put it together. I would break it apart and put it back together again. Make sure u take ur time with the thrust bearing and make sure u have watched the TD video on building the diff, as it is a must! I am sure if u do these things, u will get it worked out. One thing for sure is that it is not supposed to do what u r describing, so something is not right somewhere. If u still can't figure it out after u take it apart, come post again with pics.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:17 PM   #8778
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The ears on the diff nut should be within about 1mm of bottoming out on the outdrive. The diff screw will feel tight when you're threading it in well before the diff is actually tight, just work the diff as you tighten it to make sure it doesn't lock up. I like to use a drill to work it in as I tighten it.
I agree that the nut definitely feels tight when u first thread it on, so it could b as simple as that. I was going off the description that u tightened it up till the gear stopped. U might want to try jonnys idea first and if it won't tighten then try mine.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:19 PM   #8779
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I think I jinxed myself talking about breaking my chassis
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:37 PM   #8780
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Which CF chassis is that? This area is why the new composite chassis call for button head screws instead of countersunk. The edges would be very prone to breaking if they kept it the old way.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:43 PM   #8781
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Which CF chassis is that? This area is why the new composite chassis call for button head screws instead of countersunk. The edges would be very prone to breaking if they kept it the old way.
It is the 130$ 8 racing chassis. It did however drive very well, and only broke of a huge triple( and i mean HUGE), but the aluminum one would not have broken.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:47 PM   #8782
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Hi guys. Ive just bought my a DEX210, and so far the build has been great. Until i realised that the left rear driveshaft is catching on the T-nut of the diff. As a result the arm hesitates when moved up and down. Any help would be much appreciated.

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Old 11-16-2012, 11:51 PM   #8783
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No bladder, bled w/ the bleeder screw.
Do bladders even come with the kit? Mine didnt have any?
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:59 PM   #8784
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Ive set the diff so that the gear dosent spin when the outdrives are held. The driveshaft still rubs on the t-nut though.....
Are you using the spring for the diff and not the slipper? One is longer than the other.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:01 AM   #8785
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What are people running for slipper pads? Right now I run the Associated V2 pads and they seem to work a lot better than the durango and actually lay flat and fit the spur gears better.
Did you have issues with the stock pads? Mine work great... no issues after 3 weeks with the slipper medium tight.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:23 AM   #8786
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I'm running stock blinky 17.5 class on a med. size high bite clay track and was wondering what rotor people would recommend 12.5 high rpm, 12.5 broadband ,or 12.5 high torque.
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:29 AM   #8787
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Thanks for your help guys. I just overtightened the diff a little, while working the gear around. She is sweet now. My Reedy 9.5t motor just arrived, so ill be slapping that in the dex210 along with my hobbywing esc.

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Old 11-17-2012, 06:56 AM   #8788
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I'm running stock blinky 17.5 class on a med. size high bite clay track and was wondering what rotor people would recommend 12.5 high rpm, 12.5 broadband ,or 12.5 high torque.
This is a track question, not a car question.

Big open track? High RPM.
Tight technical track? High Torque.
Big straight and technical everywhere else? Broadband (stock).
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:28 AM   #8789
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Is there any pistons from other manufacturers that would work in the 210.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:39 AM   #8790
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Is there any pistons from other manufacturers that would work in the 210.
Your asking about shock pistons? Durango has its own piston size. Ghea makes some, but they are pricey, and Durango is coming out with some optional ones that are reasonable, with different # holes, and hole sizes. There is are a few more smaller Co's making some that I wll not name, and I ended up with a few packs, and they dont fit very well at all. They drag the inside of the body pretty badly, and honestly dont see how anyone could use them, unless they tooled them a little first..http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...s+++&search=Go
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