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Old 11-15-2012, 11:59 AM   #8746
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Looking for some more steering on my 210, running blinky. I just installed the brass front bulkhead, and it seemed to help, but it still seems to push in the corners. Im running RM3, barcodes in the back, scrubs in the front. full stick packs, no shorties. cant seem to cut those corners... more weight in the front?
I've only been working with my 210 for a couple months but I think I have mine running pretty well. Everything I learned was that the more weight I got out of the entire car the better it works and seemed to add steering also. My first instinct was to start buying the weights and adding weight to the front. But i didnt. When I first went to a shorty I hated it. Now I run a shorty and run the car as light as I can. I feel the car works very well now...after a lot of testing and adjustments. I mostly run on indoor clay and some indoor dirt/clay mix.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:02 PM   #8747
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Ps don't forget about those handy droop screws located on the a-arms
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:04 PM   #8748
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jorn is only driving a +8mm alu chassis because it is indoor. and indoor you want stiffness
Can you elaborate on this? What would indoor VS outdoor have to do with stiffness requirements?
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:37 PM   #8749
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indoor we drive carpet. with loads of grip. so a stiffer chassis will react more directly and faster.
outdoor we drive on dirt. with much less grip and more bumpy, so composite chassis with give the buggy more flex and a bit easier to drive under those outdoor conditions

an extra 8 mm wil help the buggy on larger tracks and bigger turns, calm the buggy down a bit
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:46 PM   #8750
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Originally Posted by murky123 View Post
indoor we drive carpet. with loads of grip. so a stiffer chassis will react more directly and faster.
outdoor we drive on dirt. with much less grip and more bumpy, so composite chassis with give the buggy more flex and a bit easier to drive under those outdoor conditions

an extra 8 mm wil help the buggy on larger tracks and bigger turns, calm the buggy down a bit
Well, I had a feeling it was related to Dirt and Carpet, but don't forget, not all indoor tracks are carpet/astroturf. One of the tracks near me is dirt/clay and indoors.

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Old 11-15-2012, 01:28 PM   #8751
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I can not think of one indoor clay/dirt track in my country or surrounding countries in europe

In my country there are just 2 good outdoor clay tracks
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:43 PM   #8752
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I can not think of one indoor clay/dirt track in my country or surrounding countries in europe

In my country there are just 2 good outdoor clay tracks
Fair enough.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:37 PM   #8753
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Originally Posted by murky123 View Post
indoor we drive carpet. with loads of grip. so a stiffer chassis will react more directly and faster.
outdoor we drive on dirt. with much less grip and more bumpy, so composite chassis with give the buggy more flex and a bit easier to drive under those outdoor conditions

an extra 8 mm wil help the buggy on larger tracks and bigger turns, calm the buggy down a bit
What kind of set up are you guys running and tires. I run on the carpet here in the states on Onzite I think it is. Im having a hard time calming the rear end down real loose. Im running mid mm4 with a gear diff 3,000 mini pins front and rear. And the rear end rolls like crazy. I have been playing with roll center and I have been stiffing the shock little by little. Im running stock springs front and rear 45wt up front and 40 in the rear stock pistons 6 1.2 6 1.2.
Thanks,
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:21 PM   #8754
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Just trying to figure out what aluminum upgrades are a must have and what is just for show? Is there anything breaking that needs to be upgraded to aluminum?
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:37 PM   #8755
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Just trying to figure out what aluminum upgrades are a must have and what is just for show? Is there anything breaking that needs to be upgraded to aluminum?
Only upgrades needed are for the steering link and maybe the tow block.
http://www.exotekracing.com/durango/...eatured&page=2

Fellas Exotek has just released alum shock caps.
http://www.exotekracing.com/desc-dex-bb-shock-caps-4/

More good things to come from Exotek
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:38 PM   #8756
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Just trying to figure out what aluminum upgrades are a must have and what is just for show? Is there anything breaking that needs to be upgraded to aluminum?
I would say the only necessity is the steering rack. My Son just built a 210 from my parts lot, its the only thing he upgraded, and if he can't break a car, it unbreakable..lol
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:15 PM   #8757
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The front toe block in the rear is prone to breakage.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:05 PM   #8758
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Originally Posted by The Czechexican View Post
What kind of set up are you guys running and tires. I run on the carpet here in the states on Onzite I think it is. Im having a hard time calming the rear end down real loose. Im running mid mm4 with a gear diff 3,000 mini pins front and rear. And the rear end rolls like crazy. I have been playing with roll center and I have been stiffing the shock little by little. Im running stock springs front and rear 45wt up front and 40 in the rear stock pistons 6 1.2 6 1.2.
Thanks,
John
Im running indoor carpet. mm4, gear diff with AE black carbide grease, 6/1.2 60wt AE front 6/1.2 50wt rear, stock springs, full long wheel base, 3/3 tow block, Schumacher low profile cut staggered fronts and Schumacher mini pin rears AKA red inserts front and rear, shocks laid down front and rear, ride height as low as it can go, shorty all the way back, links as long as they get. Youtube.com you can find a lot of racing at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3VIXZ09Wz4 2wd mod buggy. Small track that can be vary technical. That's all i can think of right now PM for more info Im glade to help. And if this does not help Im sorry.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:29 PM   #8759
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Hi guys. Ive just bought my a DEX210, and so far the build has been great. Until i realised that the left rear driveshaft is catching on the T-nut of the diff. As a result the arm hesitates when moved up and down. Any help would be much appreciated.

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Old 11-15-2012, 09:49 PM   #8760
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Hi guys. Ive just bought my a DEX210, and so far the build has been great. Until i realised that the left rear driveshaft is catching on the T-nut of the diff. As a result the arm hesitates when moved up and down. Any help would be much appreciated.

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What length is your driveshafts? Should be printed on them.
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