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Old 11-15-2012, 06:47 AM   #8731
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Looking for some more steering on my 210, running blinky. I just installed the brass front bulkhead, and it seemed to help, but it still seems to push in the corners. Im running RM3, barcodes in the back, scrubs in the front. full stick packs, no shorties. cant seem to cut those corners... more weight in the front?
What kind of track do you run on? With the tires your running sounds like indoor clay?
The buggy needs a shorty pack...try moving your std batt all the way forward. Take the battery stop out if you have to and butt it up against the servo. Don't add anymore weight.

Hudy guide is good check that out.

Try posting your complete setup.
Move rear hubs back
Less trailing
Stiffer spring in rear
Softer spring in front

I have a decent starting indoor setup here. There are many more on the site.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...CRCRC20121022/

Last edited by kwiksi; 11-15-2012 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:47 AM   #8732
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Looking for some more steering on my 210, running blinky. I just installed the brass front bulkhead, and it seemed to help, but it still seems to push in the corners. Im running RM3, barcodes in the back, scrubs in the front. full stick packs, no shorties. cant seem to cut those corners... more weight in the front?

Could be as easy as tire choice. Maybe flip the scrubs to so they are more aggressive or run Suburbs up front. Could be your rear tires are too hooked and less bit in the rear would balance the car out. Tire choice and balance of grip is a big part of handling.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:48 AM   #8733
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Looking for some more steering on my 210, running blinky. I just installed the brass front bulkhead, and it seemed to help, but it still seems to push in the corners. Im running RM3, barcodes in the back, scrubs in the front. full stick packs, no shorties. cant seem to cut those corners... more weight in the front?
I had that issue too. I forget the link but it's out there. It talks about moving the front axles forward. I did that and it made a difference.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:48 AM   #8734
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Originally Posted by jzwolen View Post
Looking for some more steering on my 210, running blinky. I just installed the brass front bulkhead, and it seemed to help, but it still seems to push in the corners. Im running RM3, barcodes in the back, scrubs in the front. full stick packs, no shorties. cant seem to cut those corners... more weight in the front?
You know, I thought so too, but I ended up removing the 20g weight under the servo I had in there and it got better.

Stiffen the rear springs, soften the front. Run low ride height, like 25mm or lower depending on the track.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:43 AM   #8735
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running indoor clay.
I'll try flipping the front tires, and moving the battery up to the server, there might be an inch of room or so there.
I was also thinking of trying MM4, since im running that on my DEST210 and i like the way it moves.
pretty much running this setup:
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...umann_2011.pdf
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:49 AM   #8736
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Aluminum shock towers are a very bad I idea, I'd think.

I recently broke my first plastic shock tower on a pretty harmless looking flip.

I would suspect that the aluminum towers would bend REAL easy and then your shock setup is out the window.

That's why I'm moving to the CF ones. If you don't like the look, paint them. But they have the strength and they don't bend!
Are you serious? These are 6mm thick 7076 T6 aluminum and every bit a heavy duty as 1/8 machined aluminum shock towers. How the heck would the bend? I think the chassis would break in half before the tower bend. Just saying.....
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:52 AM   #8737
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Are you serious? These are 6mm thick 7076 T6 aluminum and every bit a heavy duty as 1/8 machined aluminum shock towers. How the heck would the bend? I think the chassis would break in half before the tower bend. Just saying.....
I've bent plenty.

Aluminum, even 7076 stuff, is bendable by the crashes that these experience.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:59 AM   #8738
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I've bent plenty.

Aluminum, even 7076 stuff, is bendable by the crashes that these experience.
When have you bent a 6 mm thick aluminum shock tower on a 2wd buggy? I have also seen 1/8 e buggies bend aluminum shock towers, but only after horrible crashes, and only on cheaper Rc cars, certainly not on a mugen or x ray. Keep in mind that revolution design products are German.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:00 AM   #8739
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Chris. How's the drive working?
I havent had a chance to try it yet. The pic was just from the basic fitment. It still needs some shimming and change out the bearings. The topshaft im using is from an SAE car (not the losi) and the durango bearings are metric so i had to source some that will fit from mcmaster. I also need to cut a new topshaft spacer and mill down the bearing seat on the losi backplate to pull it closer to the motor mount plate.

Once i get it all squared away and ready to race ill post all the dirty details for anyone else who wants to do the same thing.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:10 AM   #8740
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But there are still a large amount of rtr cars out there.
I think what he's saying is that they (JC/Proline) are holding off making a new body until it's seen what the most popular option is. No offense to any RTR car/owner, but it's generally accepted that racers buy kits, and that's who the new bodies would likely be aimed at. No company wants to make 3 separate bodies for a car if it's found a month later that one of them won't sell enough to justify the mold costs.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:29 AM   #8741
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I think what he's saying is that they (JC/Proline) are holding off making a new body until it's seen what the most popular option is. No offense to any RTR car/owner, but it's generally accepted that racers buy kits, and that's who the new bodies would likely be aimed at. No company wants to make 3 separate bodies for a car if it's found a month later that one of them won't sell enough to justify the mold costs.
I get your point. I guess I'm hoping they'll settle on the +8 DIMEC chassis as I just swapped out my kit chassis and love the +8!

I actually had to add 20g to my car to make weight for our first race of the PNW Shootout Series.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:36 AM   #8742
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i doubt it.. don't for get TD is coming out with the alloy +8 car that is being tested by the team.

everyone is getting so wrapped up in the plastics..
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:44 AM   #8743
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i doubt it.. don't for get TD is coming out with the alloy +8 car that is being tested by the team.

everyone is getting so wrapped up in the plastics..
But since TD went through the effort of creating a new body for the +8, wouldn't you think that even if they decided to release an aluminum chassis, it would be designed so that the +8 body would fit?
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:53 AM   #8744
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i doubt it.. don't for get TD is coming out with the alloy +8 car that is being tested by the team.

everyone is getting so wrapped up in the plastics..
This has a lot to do with the weight of the aluminum car. In 17.5 blinky, the car felt like a slug to me. With the plastic chassis the car definately transitions better IMO and is quite a bit lighter. For mod class the aluminum +8 chassis might be fine but I'm sticking with the plastic.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:03 AM   #8745
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i doubt it.. don't for get TD is coming out with the alloy +8 car that is being tested by the team.

everyone is getting so wrapped up in the plastics..
jorn is only driving a +8mm alu chassis because it is indoor. and indoor you want stiffness
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