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Old 11-09-2012, 09:45 PM   #8656
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Originally Posted by tedstryker View Post
Hey guys i was reading about the diff issues..everybody is having myself included...so I switched it out to the gear diff....packed it with 2000 diff oil...man the car felt a lot better..more consistent and smoother...


I run a blue groove med - high bite track...


I would recommend the gear diff ...I'm not going back to the ball diff..

Just my 2 cents...
The ball diff is great - it's one of the best ones I've seen - if built properly.

I've seen a number of mistakes at assembly already and it's tricky to put together, but I've done 2 now of my own and they're both still silky smooth after a number of runs.
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:31 AM   #8657
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Hey folks,

I just finished building my DEX210 and for some reason, the car has no speed.. I built it mid motor and installed a Reedy Sonic and Tekin ESC.. I thought maybe it was the ESC and motor so I switched to what my Kyosho RB5 has which runs perfect, and the DEX210 still lacks power.. Is there a common issue w/ the Diff where something needs to be loosened/tightened? I'd really appreciate any feedback.. Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:49 AM   #8658
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Hey folks,

I just finished building my DEX210 and for some reason, the car has no speed.. I built it mid motor and installed a Reedy Sonic and Tekin ESC.. I thought maybe it was the ESC and motor so I switched to what my Kyosho RB5 has which runs perfect, and the DEX210 still lacks power.. Is there a common issue w/ the Diff where something needs to be loosened/tightened? I'd really appreciate any feedback.. Thanks!
First thing to do - take the pinion off your motor and spin the rear tires. Do they roll freely? If you have some binding they will come to a stop quickly. I had a similar issue with over tightened rear wheels (with 12mm hex conversion) not being spaced properly. It made a huge difference.

Second spot to check is that the transmission is not bound. Did you use an impact gun to tighten the motor plate screws down through the tranny? I tighten one, check to make sure it is still free. Tighten the next one and so one. One at a time. Use locktight - those screws don't need to be that tight.

The car has speed, just find where yours is not setup right.
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:37 AM   #8659
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Finished up my 8+ chassis lastnight everything was super easy ....car is noticeable lighter...

Side note proline bulldog body fits like a glove....kinda odd...
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:16 AM   #8660
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Originally Posted by tedstryker View Post
Finished up my 8+ chassis lastnight everything was super easy ....car is noticeable lighter...

Side note proline bulldog body fits like a glove....kinda odd...
Did mine Thursday Ted and weighed it before/after. Don't see as much weight differentce as I thought, but I think its more about weight distribution/flex etc.

Actually moved the Shorty all the way forward, cut up an AE carbon strap and put my VTX behind it.

Got two packs thru it yesterday and its mad fast.

Before


After
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:43 AM   #8661
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Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Did mine Thursday Ted and weighed it before/after. Don't see as much weight differentce as I thought, but I think its more about weight distribution/flex etc.

Actually moved the Shorty all the way forward, cut up an AE carbon strap and put my VTX behind it.

Got two packs thru it yesterday and its mad fast.

Before


After




Yeah...Toby I'm looking forward to getting the new set up on the track...

Gonna make a trip to the island for some boosting fun...

I also swicthed to gear diff...I'm really liking the feel of it....
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:54 AM   #8662
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Originally Posted by tedstryker View Post
Yeah...Toby I'm looking forward to getting the new set up on the track...

Gonna make a trip to the island for some boosting fun...

I also swicthed to gear diff...I'm really liking the feel of it....
Running diff gear too Ted.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:16 AM   #8663
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Originally Posted by tedstryker View Post
Yeah...Toby I'm looking forward to getting the new set up on the track...

Gonna make a trip to the island for some boosting fun...

I also swicthed to gear diff...I'm really liking the feel of it....
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Running diff gear too Ted.
Running diff gear three Ted. (Well, in my DEST210)
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:28 PM   #8664
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I have a few more questions as im waitng for my car to arrive Mon.
Are the shocks Big bores already? I saw some alum Spring adujesters and bottem caps but they say for big bore shocks Revelotion Racing
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:08 PM   #8665
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Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
I have a few more questions as im waitng for my car to arrive Mon.
Are the shocks Big bores already? I saw some alum Spring adujesters and bottem caps but they say for big bore shocks Revelotion Racing
I just got my DEX and went through, gathered basic info, necessary mods, tuning tips and such. Yes it comes with Durango Fat Shocks (12mm big bore) and plastic preload collars. It comes with light blue 45 and 65mm springs. The basic mods/upgrades recommended to me were:
1. Boil the ballcup part tree the same way you boil eggs, then use a 1/8 drill bit and drill into the cup .200 or so. Then put black grease on the turnbuckles and thread them all the way in and out a few times.
2. Ackerman upgrade. Upgrade to an aluminum ackerman.
3. I decided to do the Capt. america mod as well. That involves mounting the ackerman under the bell cranks instead of on top of them. You will have to put 2mm of washers under the bellcranks to raise it up enough to clear everything lock to lock. Then you can just add 5mm of washers to the aluminum ackerman instead of a big pile on the steering knuckle. I got pointed in this direction by 4 top Durango drivers, but opinions vary.
3. Most of the DEX drivers will tell you to run 4-hole pistons. It calms the car down. You can plug a couple holes in the provided pistons, or get some blanks. Blanks dont come in the kit.
4. Plastic chassis! Everybody I spoke to told me based on the tracks in Az, to run the plastic DIMEC +8mm.
5. Watch the Team Durango ball diff build video and read the how to. It can mean the difference between amazing diff, or car wont even go.
6. Springs, get a few based on the average setup from your style track on Durangos website. I only had to get dark green, dark blue, and black F/R and I'm good to go anywhere in Az.
7. Front droop screws. Almost everyone shaves the droop tabs off of the front bulk head and takes the droop screws out of the front arms. They instead use 1-2mm of travel limiters in the front shocks.

Now I'm still getting my feet wet with this car, but these are recommendations based on 50+ emails and texts, phone calls to TDR drivers.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:32 PM   #8666
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Originally Posted by nismomike View Post
I just got my DEX and went through, gathered basic info, necessary mods, tuning tips and such. Yes it comes with Durango Fat Shocks (12mm big bore) and plastic preload collars. It comes with light blue 45 and 65mm springs. The basic mods/upgrades recommended to me were:
1. Boil the ballcup part tree the same way you boil eggs, then use a 1/8 drill bit and drill into the cup .200 or so. Then put black grease on the turnbuckles and thread them all the way in and out a few times.
2. Ackerman upgrade. Upgrade to an aluminum ackerman.
3. I decided to do the Capt. america mod as well. That involves mounting the ackerman under the bell cranks instead of on top of them. You will have to put 2mm of washers under the bellcranks to raise it up enough to clear everything lock to lock. Then you can just add 5mm of washers to the aluminum ackerman instead of a big pile on the steering knuckle. I got pointed in this direction by 4 top Durango drivers, but opinions vary.
3. Most of the DEX drivers will tell you to run 4-hole pistons. It calms the car down. You can plug a couple holes in the provided pistons, or get some blanks. Blanks dont come in the kit.
4. Plastic chassis! Everybody I spoke to told me based on the tracks in Az, to run the plastic DIMEC +8mm.
5. Watch the Team Durango ball diff build video and read the how to. It can mean the difference between amazing diff, or car wont even go.
6. Springs, get a few based on the average setup from your style track on Durangos website. I only had to get dark green, dark blue, and black F/R and I'm good to go anywhere in Az.
7. Front droop screws. Almost everyone shaves the droop tabs off of the front bulk head and takes the droop screws out of the front arms. They instead use 1-2mm of travel limiters in the front shocks.

Now I'm still getting my feet wet with this car, but these are recommendations based on 50+ emails and texts, phone calls to TDR drivers.
Alright thanks I got the +8 chassis coming with it aswell as alum exotik Ackerman. As for the Capt. America mod is there any pics or step by step I can look at?
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:36 PM   #8667
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I wanna get a DEX210 but I kind of get the feeling that a v2 may be around the corner. Anyone else think so?
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:56 PM   #8668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismomike View Post
I just got my DEX and went through, gathered basic info, necessary mods, tuning tips and such. Yes it comes with Durango Fat Shocks (12mm big bore) and plastic preload collars. It comes with light blue 45 and 65mm springs. The basic mods/upgrades recommended to me were:
1. Boil the ballcup part tree the same way you boil eggs, then use a 1/8 drill bit and drill into the cup .200 or so. Then put black grease on the turnbuckles and thread them all the way in and out a few times.
2. Ackerman upgrade. Upgrade to an aluminum ackerman.
3. I decided to do the Capt. america mod as well. That involves mounting the ackerman under the bell cranks instead of on top of them. You will have to put 2mm of washers under the bellcranks to raise it up enough to clear everything lock to lock. Then you can just add 5mm of washers to the aluminum ackerman instead of a big pile on the steering knuckle. I got pointed in this direction by 4 top Durango drivers, but opinions vary.
3. Most of the DEX drivers will tell you to run 4-hole pistons. It calms the car down. You can plug a couple holes in the provided pistons, or get some blanks. Blanks dont come in the kit.
4. Plastic chassis! Everybody I spoke to told me based on the tracks in Az, to run the plastic DIMEC +8mm.
5. Watch the Team Durango ball diff build video and read the how to. It can mean the difference between amazing diff, or car wont even go.
6. Springs, get a few based on the average setup from your style track on Durangos website. I only had to get dark green, dark blue, and black F/R and I'm good to go anywhere in Az.
7. Front droop screws. Almost everyone shaves the droop tabs off of the front bulk head and takes the droop screws out of the front arms. They instead use 1-2mm of travel limiters in the front shocks.

Now I'm still getting my feet wet with this car, but these are recommendations based on 50+ emails and texts, phone calls to TDR drivers.
My kit came with blank pistons which I drilled out to four hole.

What does the Capt. America mod do for the car besides relocating washers?
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:00 PM   #8669
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I wanna get a DEX210 but I kind of get the feeling that a v2 may be around the corner. Anyone else think so?
If a new car came out next week you would have to wait weeks or months for it to be in stock, and then even longer for parts. I say get the 210 now, drive it, wear it out. By then there might be a V2 available. Who knows.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:24 PM   #8670
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My kit came with blank pistons which I drilled out to four hole.

What does the Capt. America mod do for the car besides relocating washers?
Maybe they have different parts trees for the pistons. I just got my kit from HRP and it didn't have blanks. Just 2 each of 1.2-1.3-1.4. Or maybe I got unlucky.
The mod does basically just relocate the washers. But it moves them from a 5 or 6mm stack on a piece of plastic to a 5mm stack onto a peice of aluminum. The reason I decided to do it was because of the multiple sources I got it from. After seeing the new triple at Glitch, seems like it might save me a few knuckles.
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