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Old 11-04-2012, 05:03 AM   #8566
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I had 3000 in mine but we run slicks, Im going to try 60 losi oil today at the track. I need a little more rotation and squaring up on mid to exit
Yep. I have plenty of steering just need to calm it down on exit. 3000 sounds like a good star
ting point. And I need need to take some roll out of the rear.
Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:30 AM   #8567
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Yes, It did improve my ability to consistantly pull off good lap times, at least on the low bite track we are running on at the Spektrum Race.. HOWEVER, there are guys here that are doing well with the Stock chassis, Tresrey alloy chassis, and TD DIMEC +8mm chassis. Its like any tuning piece for a car, you wont know the effects till you try it out yourself!
Sounds good. The only bummer is i just painted a new body and spent a lot of time on it. But if the standard +8 helps with low traction tracks then i'm in. No rush. My car handles pretty good as is. Ill try it before i knock it. Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:48 AM   #8568
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Guys I have ANOTHER issue trying to get my 210 on the track. Now I have found that the cvd end is rubbing on the nutted/plastic insert side side of the diff and is binding up the suspension movement on the right side of the car. That insert is in the correct way, and I did compress the spring a couple times before putting it in. What gives?
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:52 AM   #8569
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Guys I have ANOTHER issue trying to get my 210 on the track. Now I have found that the cvd end is rubbing on the nutted/plastic insert side side of the diff and is binding up the suspension movement on the right side of the car. That insert is in the correct way, and I did compress the spring a couple times before putting it in. What gives?
Make sure you have the diff screw tightened down enough, if it is set too loose I have heard it will touch. I break in my ball diff before I install it in the trans case, so I haven't run into this, but i have seen it posted on here before..
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:08 AM   #8570
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Make sure you have the diff screw tightened down enough, if it is set too loose I have heard it will touch. I break in my ball diff before I install it in the trans case, so I haven't run into this, but i have seen it posted on here before..
That's what I was thinking, but I installed it, broke it in, and re tightened it already. Maybe it needs more bedding in and another adjustment. If I set the rear camber for -1 it binds pretty bad, no way I could run it like that. I know most of the guys at my track are running gear diff, not sure how much help they will be, maybe I just need a gear diff.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:39 AM   #8571
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That's what I was thinking, but I installed it, broke it in, and re tightened it already. Maybe it needs more bedding in and another adjustment. If I set the rear camber for -1 it binds pretty bad, no way I could run it like that. I know most of the guys at my track are running gear diff, not sure how much help they will be, maybe I just need a gear diff.
You could try a gear diff, I really like the ball diff, and they have had really long lifespans. IMO its the best ball diff out there, especially as far as durability, but they do have to be run on the tight side..Here's a pic of mine, little hard to tell and couldn't get a good angle..hope it helps
Durango DEX210 Thread-img_1025.jpg
here's a random lid off pic also..just because..
Durango DEX210 Thread-img_1024.jpg

Last edited by flame56mx; 11-04-2012 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:47 AM   #8572
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and I can't free the links up enough to adjust anything without popping the ends off the balls. I have worked them in and out, added grease to the threads, worked them more and they still bind and not allow me to make adjustments. This car is FIGHTING me to get to the track, I am quickly losing interest in running it.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:56 AM   #8573
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and I can't free the links up enough to adjust anything without popping the ends off the balls. I have worked them in and out, added grease to the threads, worked them more and they still bind and not allow me to make adjustments. This car is FIGHTING me to get to the track, I am quickly losing interest in running it.
I am running the TD ballstuds and ball cups on both my Durango buggies, and have never had one "pop off", I use my cordless drill (for everything), in and out a few times, and use this on the threads..I would hate to see you abandon the car, it's a great buggy, but its different, and once you get used to the differences, you'll be golden..
Durango DEX210 Thread-tkpc8006.jpg
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:15 AM   #8574
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Any one running the 210 on carpet with a gear diff? Is so what wt are you running. I put 1000 is mine and the rear end was all over the place. I am running mini pins mid motor 4 gear.


this depends on the carpet and how big the track is? If its a big track with high bite the up the diff oil to 5000. If its a really small track with tight corners then the light diff oil will help get around corners faster.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:17 AM   #8575
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I just put my dimec +8 chassis on my MM4 car last night and tested it at OCRC(indoor clay). As with the 8-racing +8 chassis, I found the car really likes the extra length on the chassis. It seems to be a bit better with the plastic chassis over the CF one, as I expected. I think the flex in the chassis is a good thing if I can avoid breaking it...LOL Anyway, if any of you are running MM on indoor clay, I think it is a good investment.

FYI,
You need the new +8 TD body with it(if you want it to look right) as they have changed the sidepods and the old bodies don't mate up to it quite right.


Can you just grind the +8 chassis a bit to get the old body to fit?
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:20 AM   #8576
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I actually use grease in the diff when i run on carpet, but its a small tigth track..
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:29 AM   #8577
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Can you just grind the +8 chassis a bit to get the old body to fit?
I am using the std size body on my +8mm chassis, its not ideal, but its a decent fit..
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:38 AM   #8578
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I am running the TD ballstuds and ball cups on both my Durango buggies, and have never had one "pop off", I use my cordless drill (for everything), in and out a few times, and use this on the threads..I would hate to see you abandon the car, it's a great buggy, but its different, and once you get used to the differences, you'll be golden..
Attachment 988738
Swapped the rear links and balls off my RB5 and was able to set the rear camber in 30 seconds rather than the hours and high frustration level with the Durango hardware. like seriously? CVD is still binding on the diff nut though.....


Oh and about your pic, it's the other side that's binding, the adjustment nut side.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:40 AM   #8579
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I just tried to sign up to www.petitrc.com but its in french? Any help would be great!
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:20 AM   #8580
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Your from Canada don't you all speak french??

You don't have to sign up to see their setups

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...ngoDEX210.html

I went from 4000 to 60wt losi oil on our small tight track, worked wonders
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