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Old 10-25-2012, 12:45 AM
  #8386  
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Originally Posted by M3Man03
Do they make a non-dish wheel for the DEX210?

It uses a 14mm hex on all 4 corners, right?
Fronts use a 5x10x4 bearing
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by M3Man03
Do they make a non-dish wheel for the DEX210?

It uses a 14mm hex on all 4 corners, right?
14mm rear and 2 bearing axle front theirs conversions to make the fronts hexs i believe if you type it into the search on this thread its their
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Old 10-25-2012, 02:59 PM
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Just received my Dimec20+8 chassis from Durango. Weight came in at 134g. Old aluminum chassis plus side guards weighs 172. Should be a great upgrade overall though. Also got my new Gen2 redline motor to try out.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Azagar
Just received my Dimec20+8 chassis from Durango. Weight came in at 134g. Old aluminum chassis plus side guards weighs 172. Should be a great upgrade overall though. Also got my new Gen2 redline motor to try out.
Nice, mine wont be here till Monday..dang almost 40g..I just got my car feeling good too...
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by M3Man03
Do they make a non-dish wheel for the DEX210?

It uses a 14mm hex on all 4 corners, right?
You can use the front axle/steering arm assembly off of the SC/ST, then put 14mm hexes on it and use the DE wheels for the 410. They are the same width as the wheels for the 210 which I find a bit odd...
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:48 PM
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so now the alloy chassis are no good?
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:50 PM
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Still good only just not available in a +8 yet. Plus for 17.5 a carbon composite chassis is great because of the weight saving. I look forward to trying it out.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
so now the alloy chassis are no good?
Like Az said, there is nothing wrong with the std chassis, the +8 is supposed to add more stability to the car, a lot like the other brands have done. It should be another nice tuning option..
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:43 PM
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I'm running the carbon +8 chassis. Really drives nice.

Johnny, I made a set of 2x1.6 pistons tonight. I'm going to test next Monday, hopefully, and see how how they work on our new layout. Track is made for short course so it should be a good test for stability and pack.

Also, my race weight is 1545g without transponder. My B4.1 is 1557g with transponder.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:07 PM
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Default dimec20 chassis

looking at the dimec20 chassis, im hoping the front reinforcement ribbing right after the kickup will not interfere with the ackerman fix (mounting carbon rack below steering arms). can anyone with the new chassis confirm or let us know the deal with it? thanks.

glenn
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by glenng
looking at the dimec20 chassis, im hoping the front reinforcement ribbing right after the kickup will not interfere with the ackerman fix (mounting carbon rack below steering arms). can anyone with the new chassis confirm or let us know the deal with it? thanks.

glenn
I was able to flip the rack on my DESC210 without issue, but that was using the included aluminum rack. Should be the same though as long as the locknuts are to the top side.

Speaking of new chassis - I just received Cush's new billet chassis from Tresrey today, just in time for Spektrum next week. We'll see how it runs, but this thing in a beautiful work of art! The entire chassis is machined from a solid block of aircraft quality 7075 aluminum, meaning the front kickup is not actually bent, but has been carved from a solid chunk. It's pretty.

Auto- keep us posted. Cush will have his first run with them in the buggy on Saturday at a Spektrum warm up race.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonny5
I was able to flip the rack on my DESC210 without issue, but that was using the included aluminum rack. Should be the same though as long as the locknuts are to the top side.

Speaking of new chassis - I just received Cush's new billet chassis from Tresrey today, just in time for Spektrum next week. We'll see how it runs, but this thing in a beautiful work of art! The entire chassis is machined from a solid block of aircraft quality 7075 aluminum, meaning the front kickup is not actually bent, but has been carved from a solid chunk. It's pretty.

Auto- keep us posted. Cush will have his first run with them in the buggy on Saturday at a Spektrum warm up race.
thanks johnny, yea that makes sense, looks like flipping the locknut upside down could work, something i considered when doing the fix initially, but had clearance with the aluminum chassis so all was good.

and i was wondering why that tresrey chassis was so expensive. explains it now pretty well, thanks for sharing.

with the dimec20, it looks like the new tresrey carbon fiber battery hold down can possibly offer the chassis more structural rigidity with its 4 mounting points. looks like im gonna have to give it a shot and order em. thanks a bunch!

glenn
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonny5
I was able to flip the rack on my DESC210 without issue, but that was using the included aluminum rack. Should be the same though as long as the locknuts are to the top side.

Speaking of new chassis - I just received Cush's new billet chassis from Tresrey today, just in time for Spektrum next week. We'll see how it runs, but this thing in a beautiful work of art! The entire chassis is machined from a solid block of aircraft quality 7075 aluminum, meaning the front kickup is not actually bent, but has been carved from a solid chunk. It's pretty.

Auto- keep us posted. Cush will have his first run with them in the buggy on Saturday at a Spektrum warm up race.
wait johnny, i just at looked at mines again, and the nut from the ballstud can not go upside down when the rack is on the bottom. that nut clears the ribbing reinforcements on your desc210? hoping autocratic can keep as posted as well too please. thanks guys.

glenn
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by glenng
wait johnny, i just at looked at mines again, and the nut from the ballstud can not go upside down when the rack is on the bottom. that nut clears the ribbing reinforcements on your desc210? hoping autocratic can keep as posted as well too please. thanks guys.

glenn
The nuts I was referring to are the ones for the bellcrank- assuming you have a cf rack. The ballstud nuts just barely cleared on the SC, but a light bit of dremel work would fix that if not on yours.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:54 AM
  #8400  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
On the trans to make it super free when snugged up simply remove and adjust the shim placement. Not all of the housings require all of the shims.

On the motor plate screws ALWAYS use red loctite here. When I build my transmissions I snug up the plastic to plastic screws only enough to seal any gaps. Then the motor plate screws are done in the same fashion with loctite. Let it setup overnight.


Randy,
When u say adjust shims, u mean the ones that run against the idler gears correct? If so, can u completely remove one of them? I was always afraid to for fear of the race binding on the case.

Appreciate your advice as always, and thanks again for the awesome support on the chassis.
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