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Old 10-24-2012, 08:39 AM   #8371
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Want to buy 210 but im being told not too. Doing sc now never owned a buggy the 210 being highly tunable i could mess it up. Indoor dirt clay track is where ill be running. 210 looks awesome will get one a some point but should i start with a b4.1 .. opinions. & thoughts greatly appreciated thanks.
IMO you are getting some biased advice, unless you run on many different tracks, once you get a base setup established, the only tuning you really need to do will be slight changes. Just because you have more tuning options available, doesnt mean you will need to use them on a daily basis, but it is nice to have the abilility.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:54 AM   #8372
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Want to buy 210 but im being told not too. Doing sc now never owned a buggy the 210 being highly tunable i could mess it up. Indoor dirt clay track is where ill be running. 210 looks awesome will get one a some point but should i start with a b4.1 .. opinions. & thoughts greatly appreciated thanks.
In the last six months I have owned the Losi 22, B4.1, and the DEX210. I like the 210 the best so far. I consider it a cross between the durability and solid feel of the 22, with the responsiveness and steering of the B4.1.

Buy it, build it per instructions, do the four hole piston thing, upgrade the steering brace, and you will be good to go.

Owning a buggy teaches you the importance of tire selection, weight placement, springs, pistons and oil, etc., but it is by no means something you could mess up. I had my buggy dialed with minimal effort, but it did take a little time to find the right springs, piston size, and oil to suite the tracks I visit. Just like any other car.

The practice thing is where I suffer.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:27 AM   #8373
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For anyone that has issues with the transmission binding when tightening the motor plate screws, were you able to resolve the issue, and how?

One thing that I haven't been able to get right on this car is the motor plate screws backing out, causing the slipper assembly to bind since the plate is coming loose. I've done a few things to try and keep the screws tight, while at the same time having the transmission spin free, but nothing has been a permanent solution.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:37 AM   #8374
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For anyone that has issues with the transmission binding when tightening the motor plate screws, were you able to resolve the issue, and how?

One thing that I haven't been able to get right on this car is the motor plate screws backing out, causing the slipper assembly to bind since the plate is coming loose. I've done a few things to try and keep the screws tight, while at the same time having the transmission spin free, but nothing has been a permanent solution.

I have had this problem too, it seemed i had one to many chims on the gears in the gearbox...

problem solved
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:50 AM   #8375
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On the trans to make it super free when snugged up simply remove and adjust the shim placement. Not all of the housings require all of the shims.

On the motor plate screws ALWAYS use red loctite here. When I build my transmissions I snug up the plastic to plastic screws only enough to seal any gaps. Then the motor plate screws are done in the same fashion with loctite. Let it setup overnight.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:59 AM   #8376
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On the trans to make it super free when snugged up simply remove and adjust the shim placement. Not all of the housings require all of the shims.

On the motor plate screws ALWAYS use red loctite here. When I build my transmissions I snug up the plastic to plastic screws only enough to seal any gaps. Then the motor plate screws are done in the same fashion with loctite. Let it setup overnight.
I agree with Randy. This is a practice, I have been doing with all of my builds.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:38 AM   #8377
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Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
For anyone that has issues with the transmission binding when tightening the motor plate screws, were you able to resolve the issue, and how?

One thing that I haven't been able to get right on this car is the motor plate screws backing out, causing the slipper assembly to bind since the plate is coming loose. I've done a few things to try and keep the screws tight, while at the same time having the transmission spin free, but nothing has been a permanent solution.
I have had 2 DEX210's and on both of mine I basically trim down a little off that aluminum spacer that goes on the top layshaft in the tranny. I keep trimming it little at a time until I can tighten the tranny screws up with no binding in the tranny (I can tighten my tranny pretty tight and still have no binding). Also doing this I have never had that small (5x8x2.5mm) bearing go bad, that some people seem to have to replace often.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:07 AM   #8378
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Default A question about droop.

I bought my 210 new/assembled and of course the setup was all over the place!

My question is what are good positions for front and rear droop and what are the affects of increasing or reducing droop in the front and the rear?

For now, I increased the front droop from horizontal to allow the arms to fall to about 15% below horizontal.

Thanks.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:21 AM   #8379
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Front
Less Droop (arm Higher)
Decreases front chassis upward travel on-throttle
Less rearward weight transfer
Better on smooth tracks
More on-power steering
More responsive in direction change

More Droop (arm Lower)
Increases upward chassis travel on-throttle
More rearward weight transfer
Increases rear traction on corner exit
Better on bumpy tracks

----------------------------------------------

Rear

Less Droop (arm Higher)
Decreases rear chassis upward travel off-throttle or
under braking
Less forward weight transfer
Better on smooth tracks

More Droop (arm Lower)
Increases rear chassis upward travel off-throttle or
under braking
Less stable under braking
Increases steering on corner entry
Better on bumpy tracks
More turn-in
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:24 AM   #8380
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I measure the droop by measuring the length of the shock from eyelet to eyelet. I am running the front at 78mm and the back at 97mm.
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:27 PM   #8381
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Originally Posted by RiseRC View Post
Front
Less Droop (arm Higher)
Decreases front chassis upward travel on-throttle
Less rearward weight transfer
Better on smooth tracks
More on-power steering
More responsive in direction change

More Droop (arm Lower)
Increases upward chassis travel on-throttle
More rearward weight transfer
Increases rear traction on corner exit
Better on bumpy tracks

----------------------------------------------

Rear

Less Droop (arm Higher)
Decreases rear chassis upward travel off-throttle or
under braking
Less forward weight transfer
Better on smooth tracks

More Droop (arm Lower)
Increases rear chassis upward travel off-throttle or
under braking
Less stable under braking
Increases steering on corner entry
Better on bumpy tracks
More turn-in

Wow! Thanks for a concise yet fullsome explanation. Even though, I've yet to even get a baseline setup, I already like the handling of the 210 and I love the ability to easily tune every aspect - including droop.

There are a few negatives I see out of the box for this kit:

chassis slapping: with the kit pistons this thing bottoms out. I read hear though that the fix is gluing the pistons such that they become 4 hole.

Leaky shocks: it seems that, though brand new, two of the shocks are leaking out of the bottom. I read here that the fix is a kyosho part - though I'd like to hear any more advice on this.

ball cups: pop more than popcorn in a microwave: what's the simplest (and cheapest) conversion? the losi approach or the associated tc5 (or something - thought there was an associated parts approach). Don't think I feel the need for lunsford here (love lunsford - but this should not need to be a $60 fix).

Steering link: a little sloppy; my purchase came with a FTW brace NIP so I'll install that.

Springs: stock blue springs seem good now if I can fix the slapping but that's because this kit came assembled MM. If/when I eventually switch this to RM3/4 (I'm running clay at WCRC), I assume I'll need to go with stiffer springs in the rear. These stock springs feel a bit light to me - I'm guessing they were designed for MM/carpet.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:37 PM   #8382
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Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
For anyone that has issues with the transmission binding when tightening the motor plate screws, were you able to resolve the issue, and how?

One thing that I haven't been able to get right on this car is the motor plate screws backing out, causing the slipper assembly to bind since the plate is coming loose. I've done a few things to try and keep the screws tight, while at the same time having the transmission spin free, but nothing has been a permanent solution.
threadlock then snug it and if its still a problem back out a little , i havent had a problem since i was told to do this
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:41 PM   #8383
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When I put a kit together I boil the ballcups for about 10 minutes or so to soften them up a bit. I have not had a problem with them popping off and I can turn the turnbuckle easy as well.

I use the 1.3 hole pistions with two holes jb welded to create the 1.3 x 4 hole.

I tryed the 1.6 2 hole in the back and it was okay, I felt the 1.6 x 2 was not what I liked up front. I race mainly on indoor clay tracks that a tight and dont have allot hard landings so I stick to the 4 hole piston.

Mike
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:32 PM   #8384
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Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Wow! Thanks for a concise yet fullsome explanation. Even though, I've yet to even get a baseline setup, I already like the handling of the 210 and I love the ability to easily tune every aspect - including droop.

There are a few negatives I see out of the box for this kit:

chassis slapping: with the kit pistons this thing bottoms out. I read hear though that the fix is gluing the pistons such that they become 4 hole.

Leaky shocks: it seems that, though brand new, two of the shocks are leaking out of the bottom. I read here that the fix is a kyosho part - though I'd like to hear any more advice on this.

ball cups: pop more than popcorn in a microwave: what's the simplest (and cheapest) conversion? the losi approach or the associated tc5 (or something - thought there was an associated parts approach). Don't think I feel the need for lunsford here (love lunsford - but this should not need to be a $60 fix).

Steering link: a little sloppy; my purchase came with a FTW brace NIP so I'll install that.

Springs: stock blue springs seem good now if I can fix the slapping but that's because this kit came assembled MM. If/when I eventually switch this to RM3/4 (I'm running clay at WCRC), I assume I'll need to go with stiffer springs in the rear. These stock springs feel a bit light to me - I'm guessing they were designed for MM/carpet.
You are reading way too much into this. The stock set up works fine on a groomed track, but most of us in the real world of bumpy tracks prefer four hole pistons. Leakage? Never heard of it. Steering link sloppy? No way. Chassis slap? drive a b44.1 and talk to us about chassis slap. I ran stock springs with four hole 1.3 pistons all around. No issues with rm3. Set your buggy up with stock settings and rm3 with four hole pistons and report your findings. Then we will talk.

I replaced the ball cups with tc6 ball studs and jconcepts ball cups and have regretted it. Stock ball cups no issues. Modded the ball cups and studs and broke 2 parts.

Last edited by zipperfoot; 10-25-2012 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:32 PM   #8385
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Do they make a non-dish wheel for the DEX210?

It uses a 14mm hex on all 4 corners, right?
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