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Old 10-15-2012, 07:45 PM   #8236
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this question is for the guys that did the 12mm hex mod to Tue front.i ordered all the parts that were needed per the part numbers that was posted in the thread.after i got everything on my front rim is hitting the screw on the arm that holds the hinge pin from falling out.im using the new aka rims.which the offset should be the same.has anyone else had issues with the front rim rubbing on the arm causing it to bind up?
I am running PL rims and don't have the issue.

Do you have four of the 1mm shims behind the C hub? Also make sure you have shimmed the axial at least 4mm out from the hub.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:30 PM   #8237
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I need to find someone willing to anodize them gold.. But My paint scheme will match the blue also.
There's always the 9v battery trick... gold would look pretty sick.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:35 PM   #8238
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Originally Posted by morris View Post
this question is for the guys that did the 12mm hex mod to Tue front.i ordered all the parts that were needed per the part numbers that was posted in the thread.after i got everything on my front rim is hitting the screw on the arm that holds the hinge pin from falling out.im using the new aka rims.which the offset should be the same.has anyone else had issues with the front rim rubbing on the arm causing it to bind up?
My car required 6mm of spacing on the hex side. Like you I ordered the same parts as suggested but front wheels would hit and not rotate. No wheels would work, not JC, PL, AE, or Kyosho.

With 6mm spacing the Kyosho wheels fit best. The PL, AE, JC wheels would still rub barely. Kyoshos don't rub at all with 6mm spacing. Idk.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:03 PM   #8239
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Default bottoming out

Are the stock springs too soft?

I recently acquired a new built kit that I completed in MM config with the stock springs. When I received the car, it's rear ride height was set very low, so I raised it to about 24mm rear and 25mm front. The car still easily bottoms out with the stock springs.

Shocks are currently in mid hole positions all around. Thoughts?
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:14 PM   #8240
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Springs are for ride height shock oil & piston hole size is for dampening.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:30 PM   #8241
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Originally Posted by Atomicsickness View Post
I am running PL rims and don't have the issue.

Do you have four of the 1mm shims behind the C hub? Also make sure you have shimmed the axial at least 4mm out from the hub.
i will have to check when i get home from work.i don't remember what for spacing is on there.but i will try anything ..thanks for your response
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:02 AM   #8242
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Originally Posted by nmdesertracer View Post
Springs are for ride height shock oil & piston hole size is for dampening.
IMO I don't think that's right about the springs being for ride height because if it was just for ride height why would they make a harder or softer spring then
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:31 AM   #8243
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Springs are for ride height shock oil & piston hole size is for dampening.
Springs do a lot more than set ride height. The shock pre load collars are for adjusting the ride height. You are right about pistons and oils though
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:17 AM   #8244
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
What will forward hole position on steering rack do for the car?
Forward hole = More forgiving Twitchier/car more steering
Rear = Twitchier/car more steering

Last edited by kwiksi; 10-16-2012 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:04 AM   #8245
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Default Some help please.

Hello all. I have a question for 210 owners that race there buggys. Im gonna pull the trigger on one of these in the upcoming weeks but I have just a couple questions as I do not have alot of knowledge on this buggy.

My question is. Now that you have owned your buggys. If you were gonna buy one now. What parts would you buy for it along with the kit? As far as replacements or option parts . Mod parts? I ask this question to racers, as that is what this will be used for. Not concerned about tire selections or oils. But mainly parts that you have seen on the kit or any option parts that you would of done if you were buying another one. I would rather just do it all at once. Thanks again for the help. Lee
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:14 AM   #8246
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Originally Posted by Leedog View Post
Hello all. I have a question for 210 owners that race there buggys. Im gonna pull the trigger on one of these in the upcoming weeks but I have just a couple questions as I do not have alot of knowledge on this buggy.

My question is. Now that you have owned your buggys. If you were gonna buy one now. What parts would you buy for it along with the kit? As far as replacements or option parts . Mod parts? I ask this question to racers, as that is what this will be used for. Not concerned about tire selections or oils. But mainly parts that you have seen on the kit or any option parts that you would of done if you were buying another one. I would rather just do it all at once. Thanks again for the help. Lee
IMO these are the essential upgrades:
1.) Carbon Steering rack
2.) Shorty lipo pack
3.) BFAST diff balls / thrust bearing
4.) Tresrey clamp on rear hex
5.) Alloy or Titanium quick change shock mounts

Spares:
1.) Shock tower set
2.) Rear hub set ( Or fill the neighboring holes with grub screws to prevent a collapse)
3.) RF hinge pin block set.. Never broke one though others have.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:34 AM   #8247
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Forward hole = Twitchier/car more steering
Rear = More forgiving
According to the Hudy Off-Road Manual, its opposite of what you are saying. Is it just something specific with the Durangos that would change this?

Quote:
STEERING ROD INNER MOUNTING POSITION CHARACTERISTICS

Forward holes (sharper angle)
• Smoothens out steering response
• Car reacts smoothly
• Better suited to smooth fl owing tracks with
high speed corners

Rearward holes (shallower angle)
• Quickens initial steering response
• Car reacts faster to steering input
• Better suited to small, tight tracks
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:39 AM   #8248
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According to the Hudy Off-Road Manual, its opposite of what you are saying. Is it just something specific with the Durangos that would change this?
Oops got it backwards.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:03 AM   #8249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leedog View Post
Hello all. I have a question for 210 owners that race there buggys. Im gonna pull the trigger on one of these in the upcoming weeks but I have just a couple questions as I do not have alot of knowledge on this buggy.

My question is. Now that you have owned your buggys. If you were gonna buy one now. What parts would you buy for it along with the kit? As far as replacements or option parts . Mod parts? I ask this question to racers, as that is what this will be used for. Not concerned about tire selections or oils. But mainly parts that you have seen on the kit or any option parts that you would of done if you were buying another one. I would rather just do it all at once. Thanks again for the help. Lee
I'm running it without any type of hop-ups and haven't broke 1 part yet.....I've had it 8-9 months.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:09 AM   #8250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leedog View Post
Hello all. I have a question for 210 owners that race there buggys. Im gonna pull the trigger on one of these in the upcoming weeks but I have just a couple questions as I do not have alot of knowledge on this buggy.

My question is. Now that you have owned your buggys. If you were gonna buy one now. What parts would you buy for it along with the kit? As far as replacements or option parts . Mod parts? I ask this question to racers, as that is what this will be used for. Not concerned about tire selections or oils. But mainly parts that you have seen on the kit or any option parts that you would of done if you were buying another one. I would rather just do it all at once. Thanks again for the help. Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
IMO these are the essential upgrades:
1.) Carbon Steering rack
2.) Shorty lipo pack
3.) BFAST diff balls / thrust bearing
4.) Tresrey clamp on rear hex
5.) Alloy or Titanium quick change shock mounts

Spares:
1.) Shock tower set
2.) Rear hub set ( Or fill the neighboring holes with grub screws to prevent a collapse)
3.) RF hinge pin block set.. Never broke one though others have.
I would add to this aluminum RF pivot block. The stock rear hubs have been proven to be very tough, but for a bulletproof setup that looks super trick both Tresrey and TD make very nice aluminum hubs. The Tresrey hubs are 1mm narrower per side for more rear grip. I have been a big fan of aluminum hubs for a long time and run them whenever there is an option to do so.
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