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Old 10-07-2012, 12:38 PM   #8131
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Originally Posted by 1armed1 View Post
34/75 will put you at 5.74 and
35/75 will put you at 5.57

I ran 35/75 at the Spektrum race, the car was plenty fast.
Temps were right at 120 after a 5 minute run.
Hey guys, with 35/75 the gear box cover won't fit anymore... Is there an aftermarket one available?
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:54 PM   #8132
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Nice eyes! Tersrey is making a light weight milled chassis for the 210. Look for more detail soon!
Any idea when it will be released?
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:18 PM   #8133
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Ready for some winter racing!!!








When are you going to mhor so we can dial that in?
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:27 PM   #8134
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Originally Posted by M3Armand View Post
Hey guys, with 35/75 the gear box cover won't fit anymore... Is there an aftermarket one available?
http://www.rcshox.com/dex210-gearcover/
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:48 PM   #8135
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Soon!
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:40 PM   #8136
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Hey guys, with 35/75 the gear box cover won't fit anymore... Is there an aftermarket one available?
Just dremel the inside a bit where the pinion rubs. If you bolt the cover on so its just barely snug to the pinion and rotate the wheels to spin the motor it will rub marks into the cover to sneedshere it needs relief.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:00 PM   #8137
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Default MN v. RM handling characteristics

So I purchased a 210 new, built in MM configuration. I thought I'd give it a try that way before likely some day switching to rear. I can say that after adjusting the camber and toe in, "out of the box" this car handles great.

It lacks a little traction out of tight sweepers going into a jump in the current config when run at WCRC (clay).

My question is if anyone's tried both configs and can talk about the difference in handling characteristics between MM and RM. I like the way it handles in MM and am wondering what, if anything, I'll give up if/when I switch the config to rear.

Also, this thing feels like a brick with a 17.5. Do most people run a shorty in it to save weight?
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:53 PM   #8138
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Definitely run a shorty, to shed some weight. You're looking at around 1600g stock with a shorty pack which is not too bad for buggies nowadays. After some weight saving hop-ups you can hit around 1565 which is my current buggies weight in 17.5. Never tried the car MM at my track but unfortunately when you switch to RM, with the same stock springs the car will react very different in a bad way. Since there not the ideal springs for a RM setup, need softer fronts and stiffer rears.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:05 AM   #8139
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What is the benefit of the RC Shox "garodisc" replacement slipper pads? Looks like some people use them with their 210s. If you've used them, would you recommend them?
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:24 AM   #8140
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I just built up a mm4 car. Running the same set up as my rm3 except for 1.5 anti squat. Run on med to high bite clay indoor. First time out with it, I beat my best on the current layout. The car rotates very well and is planted. It will be a handful as traction goes away and the car is not as forgiving to drive as rm3. Especially if you case a jump. Gonna get the tresrey high traction rear weight and be done with it. I like the mid motor a lot so far. I also moved the rear hubs forward 2mm to give more forward bite.








Quote:
Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
So I purchased a 210 new, built in MM configuration. I thought I'd give it a try that way before likely some day switching to rear. I can say that after adjusting the camber and toe in, "out of the box" this car handles great.

It lacks a little traction out of tight sweepers going into a jump in the current config when run at WCRC (clay).

My question is if anyone's tried both configs and can talk about the difference in handling characteristics between MM and RM. I like the way it handles in MM and am wondering what, if anything, I'll give up if/when I switch the config to rear.

Also, this thing feels like a brick with a 17.5. Do most people run a shorty in it to save weight?
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:29 AM   #8141
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Not sure if you guys have been looking for the aluminum lower shock caps from TD, but they have been out of stock for some time now. Once again Tresrey has answered the call for a much needed part, of course in beautiful Tresrey red: http://tresreyusa.blogspot.com/2012/...stock.html?m=1

I have also found their .5mm and .75mm shims to be extremely useful. When shimming the rear hubs and front caster blocks, 4mm of shims leaves a little slop, but an extra .5mm shim is too tight. Using a .5mm and a .75mm shim instead of a 1mm shim gives an extra .25mm to perfectly take up the little bit of slop. Dialed!
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:47 AM   #8142
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner View Post
What is the benefit of the RC Shox "garodisc" replacement slipper pads? Looks like some people use them with their 210s. If you've used them, would you recommend them?
I got them in almost all my cars. They dont glaze up. Well worth the money!!
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:59 AM   #8143
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Jonny5 you're defentiely right. I've been using .3 kyosho 3x5 shims for the front and rear. Getting rid of that extra play makes such a difference.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:13 PM   #8144
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Originally Posted by jackcarter3 View Post
I just built up a mm4 car. Running the same set up as my rm3 except for 1.5 anti squat. Run on med to high bite clay indoor. First time out with it, I beat my best on the current layout. The car rotates very well and is planted. It will be a handful as traction goes away and the car is not as forgiving to drive as rm3. Especially if you case a jump. Gonna get the tresrey high traction rear weight and be done with it. I like the mid motor a lot so far. I also moved the rear hubs forward 2mm to give more forward bite.
Thanks. Would you mind posting your setup or listing it out? I'm basically running box setup on an indoor clay (WCRC).
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:15 PM   #8145
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what springs are cool to have when running the MM or RM setups other than stock?
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