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Old 09-29-2012, 09:47 AM   #8026
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Here is the picture of the camber mount and the screw I added.
Now,what was the reason for that, so that the ball cup don't come off?
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:01 AM   #8027
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Hey just got my DEX210 and it looks like a solid kit. But I have been talking to some durango guys and heard that the best thing to do is boil the plastic pieces. My question is what temperature and how long do I do this for. I would really like to start the build soon. Also since everyone is talking about ball studs and such, what about the RPM HD rod end set? Would these fit?
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:12 AM   #8028
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Hey just got my DEX210 and it looks like a solid kit. But I have been talking to some durango guys and heard that the best thing to do is boil the plastic pieces. My question is what temperature and how long do I do this for. I would really like to start the build soon. Also since everyone is talking about ball studs and such, what about the RPM HD rod end set? Would these fit?
who told you to boil the plastics? no need to. If you change out the ballcups you need to change the studs as well, the durango cups/studs are an odd size and other manufacturers don't work.
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:33 AM   #8029
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Now,what was the reason for that, so that the ball cup don't come off?
Exactly!
The first trip to the track with my new 210 resulted in a DNF in every heat due to rear ballcups failing. In 25+ years of rc racing, I've never seen ballcups pop off this easy. That screw will not allow the cup to pull away from the ball. Problem solved.

Aside from my now cured rear ballcup issue, I believe this car will be the most popular 2 wheel buggy at every track. The car is that good!!!
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:39 AM   #8030
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Simple solution. Use the lunsford kit. This question is only asked every 14 seconds.
I was going to by the Lundsford kit untill I saw the price!!! I have no idea why I'm having this issue with the ballcups on my car. None of the other Durango drvers are having this issue.

Adding this screw is like cheap insurance. Set it and forget it!!!

Lots of good advice in this thread, thanks guys!
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:37 PM   #8031
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Need some help. I tried the front hex setup. But front wheels would bind and lock cause of contacting the outer hinge pin set screw. So went back to stock Durango front axles and knuckles. And in the 3mm trailing setup I STILL had contact at the same spot. The front wheels/tires were totally locked up.

And with the stock setup I was sure to put the spindle spacers in the correct orientation...3 rear, 1 front.

Only thing I can get to work is putting the axle inserts to the 2-2 setting and keep 3 spacers rear and 1 spacer front.

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Old 09-29-2012, 08:11 PM   #8032
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still I'm just curious on boiling the plastics. So can someone please tell me who long they need to be boiled for? I would really appreciate it.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:25 PM   #8033
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still I'm just curious on boiling the plastics. So can someone please tell me who long they need to be boiled for? I would really appreciate it.
I've boiled the plastics on a Blitz ESE kit but not on the Durango's. You just bring it up to boil and let it boil for about 5 min. turn down the heat let it cool down in the pot with the water in. This softened the the Blitz composite so it wasn't so brittle, again never did it on any other car.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:53 PM   #8034
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I did it to mine on initial build. I boiled the towers and ball cups, and have never had an issue. I have since went to the carbon towers, but never did break a stocker, or pop a ball cup. We race in cooler temps up here in Minnesota, and its a common thing to boil 1/8 scale wings and such, to take the brittleness out..Above post is correct, like boiling an egg..
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:36 AM   #8035
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Same here, amazing how well they work when assembled properly and you stay off the pipes. Ream out the ends, thread them through a couple times and you won't have any problems.
I didn't even ream them, just rounded out the opening a little. But I use allens in them each time I adjust them. I drive my cars SUPPPER hard, I don't crash very often but when I do the cars going to tumble for at least 10 feet haha. I've only had the ends pop off when I have slammed into a wall or something. Which was better then something breaking.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:21 AM   #8036
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Just curious to what style body your running indoors and outdoors. Looking at the finnisher and bulldog bodies. I find the bulldog one kind of expensive. Also, do they work with the mid motor converson?

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Old 09-30-2012, 08:33 AM   #8037
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Need some help. I tried the front hex setup. But front wheels would bind and lock cause of contacting the outer hinge pin set screw. So went back to stock Durango front axles and knuckles. And in the 3mm trailing setup I STILL had contact at the same spot. The front wheels/tires were totally locked up.

And with the stock setup I was sure to put the spindle spacers in the correct orientation...3 rear, 1 front.

Only thing I can get to work is putting the axle inserts to the 2-2 setting and keep 3 spacers rear and 1 spacer front.


Can you pull the wheel and take a picture of the assembly?

Here is the writeup of my Front Hex Mod.
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Old 09-30-2012, 11:05 AM   #8038
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Atomic, that is exactly the follow up I used.

I added a bunch of toe out and was then able to use the 3-1 axle inserts with 3mm behind the c-hub. Car was much better handling for me.

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Old 09-30-2012, 11:08 AM   #8039
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I'll be at the track all day today. If you want other pics with the hex setup I'll swap them on and get pics. I'd really like to use all the front hex wheels I have already. Lots of time went into tuning those. LoL. Although it's probably ALL different handling with the 210 anyway.
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Old 09-30-2012, 11:13 AM   #8040
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Forgot to post a pic of my car last night.

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