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Old 09-25-2012, 08:03 PM   #7951
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I had the same issue. The two washers are different sizes on purpose. From what I have read here you should put the tighter one on first. I had a tough time getting the tighter washer on but it eventually slid over the bolt if you get it just perfect.

What was the first thing that brought you to a halt?
+1 me too. There's a video in the web on how to build the diff.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:27 PM   #7952
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
I had the same issue. The two washers are different sizes on purpose. From what I have read here you should put the tighter one on first. I had a tough time getting the tighter washer on but it eventually slid over the bolt if you get it just perfect.

What was the first thing that brought you to a halt?
missing CVD coupler pin
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:43 PM   #7953
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can not say anything bad about them at all i love my 8 - racing 8mm chassis its awesome and for stock racing saved a fair amount of weight and well

car just feels so planted compaired to the smaller chassis IMO

Thank you for the info
Are you using a vinyl chassis protector on your carbon? Is it wearing decent if not? Did you need to glue the edges or anything like that? We had Vantage chassis's on our Revo's and they were great. Just hoping for the same with this buggy. But the Revo's had skid plates, which is why I ask about protection. Lots of questions!



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I'd go with the 8 racing one if you want one now or wait for me to release my aluminum one.
Interesting
What is the wait time?
Also, good luck with production!
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:05 PM   #7954
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After reading the forums i was concerned about the stock ball cups. So far i have not had a ball cup pop off while driving. The problem i did have was a cracked front ball stud.

I tried to take off a front ball stud to add a washer and it broke into two pieces. Never had that happen on any car before.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:33 PM   #7955
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I raced my new 210 this past Sunday and poped every ball cup at least once. The angled ones on the rear could be pressed on and pulled back off with little to no effort. I also found one of the balls had crushed. I've never had to replace so many ballcups while at the track untill running this car!!!

I also broke a front hub carrier but that was from a weird crash.

The 2 wheel buggy I replaced with my Durango was a B4.1. It took me several track days to get that car perfect. I was able to make the 210 feel as perfect in under 3 hours.

I'm sold on this brand.

After buying and installing the Lundsford turnbuckle kit this car will be perfect.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:32 PM   #7956
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Except that it deserves a better driver!

Haha...jk...
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:54 PM   #7957
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What are you doing on this page Jesse?!?!
Looking to trade in your Associated cars for a sweet Durango?
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:00 PM   #7958
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Hi, I'm building mine MM4 and when I installed the plastic gear cover on the motor plate it scrubs a little on the gear cover. Is this common or I missed something?
Is the spur or the pinion touching? What gearing? When Cush ran blinky 17.5 last year I had to dremel the gear cover a bit around the pinion for gear clearance running 75/35, or you may be able to just slide the pinion towards the motor plate a bit. If it's the spur rubbing, then I would think something is assembled wrong- unless you have an AE gear on there. I've seen an AE gear be a little wider and rub the cover.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:12 PM   #7959
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Originally Posted by Tdiddy View Post
I raced my new 210 this past Sunday and poped every ball cup at least once. The angled ones on the rear could be pressed on and pulled back off with little to no effort. I also found one of the balls had crushed. I've never had to replace so many ballcups while at the track untill running this car!!!

I also broke a front hub carrier but that was from a weird crash.

The 2 wheel buggy I replaced with my Durango was a B4.1. It took me several track days to get that car perfect. I was able to make the 210 feel as perfect in under 3 hours.

I'm sold on this brand.

After buying and installing the Lundsford turnbuckle kit this car will be perfect.
Welcome aboard man!

Did you by chance look at this: http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...rticle_id=4915. The concept of not having to pop a ballcup to make a camber link adjustment is really useful, and worth giving another shot. We still use stock cups on all our TD cars and very rarely pop one off.

In addition to what the article says, I like to enlarge the hole the ball cup (where the link threads in) with an 1/8 drill bit, about 3/16-1/4in deep. This allows the shank to move freely if you run a short camber link position.
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:23 AM   #7960
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The people who have ball studs breaking....are you replacing with Durango studs or Jconcepts studs listed previously in this thread?

I take possession of my 210 this week and not sure if my LHS is fully stocked with Durango parts yet. But he is plentifull with Jconcepts parts.

Thanx.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:20 AM   #7961
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So people are already saying the composite plus 8 chassis is too soft to get the carbon composite Durango one when available. How much of this is speculation being neither are even out except the rtr? Back I. The day the associated drivers all traded away the carbon composite chassis for the plastic one because stiffer isn't always better. Just wondering...... The rtr market generally isn't serious racers so broken chassis in that demographic doesn't really concern me, it's all the conjecture about a part not even available that has me thinking.....
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:09 AM   #7962
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The people who have ball studs breaking....are you replacing with Durango studs or Jconcepts studs listed previously in this thread?

I take possession of my 210 this week and not sure if my LHS is fully stocked with Durango parts yet. But he is plentifull with Jconcepts parts.

Thanx.
In order to use JC ballcups you need AE TC5 ballstuds, which have metric threads but the standars AE size ball. I think you will need the 10mm "short" studs to keep the ballstud height the same, but maybe someone else can chime in on that.
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:22 AM   #7963
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Air8- I love my DEX210. I will be in Hutch this weekend racing if you want to drive mine. I have been running the stock ball cups and have a couple of times an issue but on wrecks where I should. I am going to put a lunsford kit on mine...just because I like it not because I think I need it. Buggy works well on the clay track in Hutch. I am sold on it!
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:25 AM   #7964
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For those of you breaking front ballstuds, i broke 2 in a row before i realised what caused it. When you tighten the stud down and try to retrieve your hex driver from the stud, dont wiggle it trying to get it out. The ball is a 2.5mm hex and it makes the walls thin and the wiggling of the driver cracks it. Its not a problem on the track, its just a problem if you arent careful when wrenching.

The tc5 ballstuds are what i run on my desc410r and i will be putting them on my dex210 aswell so i can run my fancy Flo yellow jcon ballcups lol
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:45 AM   #7965
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For those of you breaking front ballstuds, i broke 2 in a row before i realised what caused it. When you tighten the stud down and try to retrieve your hex driver from the stud, dont wiggle it trying to get it out. The ball is a 2.5mm hex and it makes the walls thin and the wiggling of the driver cracks it. Its not a problem on the track, its just a problem if you arent careful when wrenching.

The tc5 ballstuds are what i run on my desc410r and i will be putting them on my dex210 aswell so i can run my fancy Flo yellow jcon ballcups lol
Over tightening can cause it too- not so much into plastic pieces from what I've seen, but on the DESC410 I cracked a couple just tightening them too tight on the shock towers where the camber link mounts.
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