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Old 09-21-2012, 09:35 AM   #7891
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I find it very interesting that the ready to run has a longer wheelbase then the original buggy with aluminum chassis. It's almost like the RTR is the better choice of car. In my case if I were to get another Durango, I would go RTR. Gets parts for ball diff, keep speed control and motor, junk radio receiver and servo, and bang I would have the DEX210 I wish I had half a year ago.
That would be because the optional aluminum chassis for the kit isn't quite available.
Some ppl are still split on the longer chassis, just because its available doesn't make it better, still just a tuning option
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:10 AM   #7892
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i plan on getting the +8mm composite chassis just to lighten up the car for stock class racing.
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:02 PM   #7893
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some guys at my track ( mid sized outdoor hardpacked dirt , low grip ) tend to like their +8mm B4.1.
They say it mellow out some response and handeling, making it easier to push and drive consistent.

So when the composite chassis is here, I will try it out. It couldnt hurt testing it, its composite and not so expensive

edit: my aluminium RTR dex with shorty is 1625 grams = 3.58 pounds
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:32 PM   #7894
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Need some help with a 17.5 setup. I am going to run a 17.5 in the mod class. I am using a RS Pro and a D3. I am trying to figure out what gearing and ESC setup I need. I have never ran mod before. Thansk for the help.
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:07 PM   #7895
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joining the durango club, managed to get a dex210 with ESC, motor, servo and lots of nib parts for $250. Just wish the wheels weren't hulk hogan yellow with signature orange body ...
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:45 AM   #7896
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joining the durango club, managed to get a dex210 with ESC, motor, servo and lots of nib parts for $250. Just wish the wheels weren't hulk hogan yellow with signature orange body ...

great !! congratulations !!
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:54 AM   #7897
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Hi guys

Whats the easiest way to change toe/kickup block? thought id ask before taking everything off lol
Thanks
Adrian
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:26 AM   #7898
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ehhh that will be a pain in the [email protected]#$.

its not easy
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:18 AM   #7899
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Hi guys

Whats the easiest way to change toe/kickup block? thought id ask before taking everything off lol
Thanks
Adrian
Yep take every thing off and rebuild the rear
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:52 AM   #7900
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Hi guys

Whats the easiest way to change toe/kickup block? thought id ask before taking everything off lol
Thanks
Adrian
Take off the wing and flip the car upside down. Remove the 4 screws from the RF kickup, from the tranny, and the RR pivot. Then let the motor loose. You should now be able to pull the RR pivot out, let the rear arms hang, and slide the RF kickup out the side. It's not easy, but saves a bit of time and not pulling the trans/chassis brace out entirely.
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:27 PM   #7901
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great !! congratulations !!
Thanks, here is what I picked up:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Durango...vip=true&rt=nc

Also, got some AE parts here from the B4 / T4, is there anything that works on the durango worth using? (spur gears, etc).
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Last edited by Cain; 09-22-2012 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:46 PM   #7902
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Need some help with a 17.5 setup. I am going to run a 17.5 in the mod class. I am using a RS Pro and a D3. I am trying to figure out what gearing and ESC setup I need. I have never ran mod before. Thansk for the help.
17.5 stock blinky set up is 75 / 34 mate. No boost

So if your going to add boost drop I tooth per 10degs boost mate

So 75/33 with 20degs boost and check temps.
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:49 PM   #7903
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
Take off the wing and flip the car upside down. Remove the 4 screws from the RF kickup, from the tranny, and the RR pivot. Then let the motor loose. You should now be able to pull the RR pivot out, let the rear arms hang, and slide the RF kickup out the side. It's not easy, but saves a bit of time and not pulling the trans/chassis brace out entirely.
Thanks for the info mate. Small problem, one of the two screws that go straight up the middle of the toe block wont come out it's just turning in that plastic holder so im going to have to destroy it lol
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:46 AM   #7904
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This is interesting. New stiffer plastic chassis "DIMEC20". I was going to get one of the DIMEC chassis for our low grip tracks here. It'll be nice to have the option between soft and stiff versions now I guess.
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:31 AM   #7905
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17.5 stock blinky set up is 75 / 34 mate. No boost

So if your going to add boost drop I tooth per 10degs boost mate

So 75/33 with 20degs boost and check temps.
Thanks for the info. I will start with this.
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