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Old 09-20-2012, 06:14 AM   #7861
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Cheaper and milled out for weight reduction. I'm working with Japan this week to see what we can figure out
Looks very nice ....

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Count me in..
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:19 PM   #7862
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So I am thinking of picking up one of these for the carpet season. I apologize beforehand if these questions are pretty easy, but I figured why not ask all at once you know?

Quick background, coming from an AE B4 and Academy GV2 background as far as handling goes (B4 loads of steering, Academy steering close + lots of grip + durability), anyway, I like a car with a lot of steering But I want to try something different than what AE is offering and hopefully better durability with metric hardware. Que the Durango.

So, for a guy like me, here is what I want to ask you guys:

- Does the durango use all metric hardware
- What exactly are the must have upgrades for the vehicle
- How is performance on indoor carpet or similar?
- Are shorty lipos drop in, or do you need special hardware to mount and use?
- Can you use other brand wheels, or only durango style wheels?
- What mid motor configuration is the best?
- Are the shocks *big bore*?
- Planning on running 8.5 mod or 17.5 blinky, what spurs should I pickup for this?
- Where does the car shine?
- Where does it suck?


Thank you before hand. this will be a big change for me as I pretty much always defaulted to an AE car when in doubt, and I have heard some advice against getting the dex210 but the other option is out there on price (RB6) and other than the JRXS Pros I picked up, I am having a hard time picking up a losi.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:35 PM   #7863
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Hope I can help Cain.

1. All hardware in the car is metric.
2. Must have upgrades from the get go would have to be an alloy rear toe block, and imo upgraded ballcups. Oh and also springs.
3. No personal experience on indoor carpet so can't help there.
4. Shorty lipos are drop in and you just need a foam spacer.
5. Losi 22 rear wheels work if you switch to 12mm hex, roll pin and cone for b4 wheels.
front wheels can be changed to hex or b4 wheels with the axels from Tresery.
6. I think it's mm4 but not experienced with midmotor.
7. Shocks are big bore, bleeder style.
8. For 8.5 I was running 81/23 and for 17.5 I run 69/34 right now.
9. & 10. I love my car, I know the car is great and my current setup has been working very well for me. I just need to drive more consistently. The only bad thing I can say about the car is achieving full steering lock is not possible. There is a small amount of play when at full, and you did mention you want a lot of steering.
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Last edited by Azagar; 09-20-2012 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:42 PM   #7864
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Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
Hope I can help Cain.

1. All hardware in the car is metric.
2. Must have upgrades from the get go would have to be an alloy rear toe block, and imo upgraded ballcups. Oh and also springs.
3. No personal experience on indoor carpet so can't help there.
4. Shorty lipos are drop in and you just need a foam spacer.
5. Losi 22 rear wheels work if you switch to 12mm hex, roll pin and cone for b4 wells.
front wheels can be changed to hex or b4 wheels with the axels from Tresery.
6. I think it's mm4 but not experienced with midmotor.
7. Shocks are big bore, bleeder style.
8. For 8.5 I was running 81/23 and for 17.5 I run 69/34 right now.
9. & 10. I love my car, the only bad thing I can say about the car achieving full steering lock is not possible.

Big thanks! On these question answers:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
2. Must have upgrades from the get go would have to be an alloy rear toe block, and imo upgraded ballcups. Oh and also springs.
5. Losi 22 rear wheels work if you switch to 12mm hex, roll pin and cone for b4 wells.
front wheels can be changed to hex or b4 wheels with the axels from Tresery.
9. & 10. I love my car, the only bad thing I can say about the car achieving full steering lock is not possible.
For:

#2: do you have a part number for the block? does someone make an an adjustable rear toe block? Also, for ballcups, can you use say RPM ones?

#5: For the 12mm hex in the rear, is this something you need to buy parts to do or it is usually included out of the box in new Dex210 kits? Any advantage to the B4 front wheels over durango ones?

#10: what is preventing full steering lock?
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:48 PM   #7865
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Cain- I have a 210. I can send you some pics of the battery strap I made. The other things were answered.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:49 PM   #7866
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A lot of companies have been producing them, but if you want an adjustable one I think only rcjunky1 was designed with that in mind. It's a 0/3 alloy block but he includes shims to raise it to 3/3.

I think you can use rpm ones, with losi and hpi ball studs ones. I personally use lunsford's ballstud, ballcup and turnbuckle kit.

Yes the jconcepts, avid 12mm hex coversion kit would be needed. B4 wheels are always in stock at my lhs which is why I switched.

What prevents full lock is the Ackerman plate, oh almost forgot that's also a must have upgrade for a brand new kit. The reason is the ball studs would have to be more inwards on the plate to achieve full lock, but the way the steering system is designed it's not possible. I just moved my ballstuds to the top hole in order to pull them in a bit more.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:54 PM   #7867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Carlson View Post
Cain- I have a 210. I can send you some pics of the battery strap I made. The other things were answered.
Would be most appreciative. sending a PM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
A lot of companies have been producing them, but if you want an adjustable one I think only rcjunky1 was designed with that in mind. It's a 0/3 alloy block but he includes shims to raise it to 3/3.

I think you can use rpm ones, with losi and hpi ball studs ones. I personally use lunsford's ballstud, ballcup and turnbuckle kit.

Yes the jconcepts, avid 12mm hex coversion kit would be needed. B4 wheels are always in stock at my lhs which is why I switched.

What prevents full lock is the Ackerman plate, oh almost forgot that's also a must have upgrade for a brand new kit. The reason is the ball studs would have to be more inwards on the plate to achieve full lock, but the way the steering system is designed it's not possible. I just moved my ballstuds to the top hole in order to pull them in a bit more.
Thanks, will keep a note on all that. For toe block, thinking along the lines of toe-in, out, etc. Always a fan of lunsford so that probably would be a buy for sure.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:56 PM   #7868
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Originally Posted by dirtydan View Post
do you need special adaptors to put this on the integy setup station? i have the station that works for 1/8 offroad and 1/10 offroad, but i just wanted to know if anyone has used it with this car before i purchase one.

Dan
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Originally Posted by cm.stites View Post
you need the type c adapters i believe that are for the hpi blitz
Digged this back from page 157!
Can someone verify if this is correct? Is this the correct size for both front and rear?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-C-Adapter-Set
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:57 PM   #7869
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
So I am thinking of picking up one of these for the carpet season. I apologize beforehand if these questions are pretty easy, but I figured why not ask all at once you know?

Quick background, coming from an AE B4 and Academy GV2 background as far as handling goes (B4 loads of steering, Academy steering close + lots of grip + durability), anyway, I like a car with a lot of steering But I want to try something different than what AE is offering and hopefully better durability with metric hardware. Que the Durango.

So, for a guy like me, here is what I want to ask you guys:

- Does the durango use all metric hardware
- What exactly are the must have upgrades for the vehicle
- How is performance on indoor carpet or similar?
- Are shorty lipos drop in, or do you need special hardware to mount and use?
- Can you use other brand wheels, or only durango style wheels?
- What mid motor configuration is the best?
- Are the shocks *big bore*?
- Planning on running 8.5 mod or 17.5 blinky, what spurs should I pickup for this?
- Where does the car shine?
- Where does it suck?


Thank you before hand. this will be a big change for me as I pretty much always defaulted to an AE car when in doubt, and I have heard some advice against getting the dex210 but the other option is out there on price (RB6) and other than the JRXS Pros I picked up, I am having a hard time picking up a losi.

Are you following me?.. Welcome....
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:58 PM   #7870
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Oh toe-in and out is done with the rear hubs, there are different inserts used to changed what degree you want to run. Here's the link that throughly explains how it's done.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:08 PM   #7871
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Would be most appreciative. sending a PM.



Thanks, will keep a note on all that. For toe block, thinking along the lines of toe-in, out, etc. Always a fan of lunsford so that probably would be a buy for sure.
In addition to being able to change outboard toe at the hub very easily, Tresrey sells RR pivots that add either .5 or 1 to adjust inboard toe, as each has different effects on handling.

All the other answers are spot on. I'm sure you won't be disappointed if you go the 210 route. Great buggy and seemingly infinite adjustments possible.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:21 PM   #7872
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Lol Raul, yep, like a hawk!

Thanks everyone for the info, really appreciate it!

Has anyone heard of an "R" version coming out soon? I usually pickup stuff used to save some cash, but if an R is on the way, maybe be one of the first new ones I have had in awhile.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:31 PM   #7873
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Default Tapered Pistons

FYI, A Main has the Team Durango Tapered Pistons in stock. I just ordered 4x1.0mm and 5x1.0mm tapered pistons. 4x1.0mm looked out of stock everywhere else
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:33 PM   #7874
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one other thing, and maybe I should just search the thread but I'll take a shot, I am assuming the alloy chassis is good for high bite indoor, when its low bite outdoor, are people using that composite chassis for more flex I see the RTR coming with or is that too new right now to have an opinion on?
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:42 PM   #7875
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
one other thing, and maybe I should just search the thread but I'll take a shot, I am assuming the alloy chassis is good for high bite indoor, when its low bite outdoor, are people using that composite chassis for more flex I see the RTR coming with or is that too new right now to have an opinion on?
i liked the plastic chassis better on both highbite and low bite.. although i ran it more outdoor low bite. I think its a combination of the flex and weight reduction.. its a considerable weight savings obviously.
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