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Old 09-14-2012, 08:20 AM   #7756
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I have always been running full trailing thinking 4 was all way back, But you are saying 4 is axle full forward. Also if running full forward most people are still using 4mm shim behind the caster block. Is this correct. Sorry for my confusion
Ok I guess I read your statement wrong. Most of the time you will see people running the same number insert as the number of shims that are behind the axial. So say if I ran 4 shims behind axial I would run the insert that was full trailing.

I currently run 3 shims in the back with the hex mod that is the same as the number 3 trailing insert.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:46 AM   #7757
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How are people liking the +8 carbon 8-racing chassis of the 210 for indoor offroad?
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:48 AM   #7758
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How are people liking the +8 carbon chassis for the 210 for indoor offroad compared to the stk alum chassis
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:47 AM   #7759
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This brings up something I asked a while back when the front hex mod first started, since I see more drivers with it now can anyone take on of their old front axels and line it up and see what trailing the hex mod actually gives.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:01 AM   #7760
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This brings up something I asked a while back when the front hex mod first started, since I see more drivers with it now can anyone take on of their old front axels and line it up and see what trailing the hex mod actually gives.
I did a few pages back. It looks 3mm to me.

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Old 09-14-2012, 11:03 AM   #7761
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It sure does, thanks a lot for that must have missed that post. Gonna be switching to 3mm in preparation for when that hex option is fully out.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:08 AM   #7762
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How are people liking the +8 carbon chassis for the 210 for indoor offroad compared to the stk alum chassis
Cush really likes his. The added length gives more stability which is the biggest difference, but the lighter weight helps too. The car just looks like it corners and jumps with less effort. A pricey option, but has been totally worth it for him with many wins to back up that claim since installing it.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:25 AM   #7763
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Default Soft plastic = Easily stripped?

I'm in the middle of my DEX210 build. I am super impressed by the quality of the parts and the fit/finish of them. NOT so impressed with the instructions. I mean, how can Japanese companies have BETTER instructions that an English company...there's no excuse for that. Simple visual keys in the instructions like the positioning of the parts on the page. On page 19, for instance, the instructions show the left assembly on the right side of the page and right assembly on the left side of the page...

But my main question is, has anyone stripped the plastic from continuous assembly/disassembly? The plastic and screw combination just seems like it would easily strip. It feels like you can easily strip the plastic since it's not too difficult to overtorque the screws...

Thoughts?
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:29 AM   #7764
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Durango isn't american.. The chief in charge Gerd, he's like german..
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:43 PM   #7765
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Originally Posted by M3Armand View Post
I'm in the middle of my DEX210 build. I am super impressed by the quality of the parts and the fit/finish of them. NOT so impressed with the instructions. I mean, how can Japanese companies have BETTER instructions that an English company...there's no excuse for that. Simple visual keys in the instructions like the positioning of the parts on the page. On page 19, for instance, the instructions show the left assembly on the right side of the page and right assembly on the left side of the page...

But my main question is, has anyone stripped the plastic from continuous assembly/disassembly? The plastic and screw combination just seems like it would easily strip. It feels like you can easily strip the plastic since it's not too difficult to overtorque the screws...

Thoughts?
I have found over torquing to be an issue with any plastic kit. The key for me is to tighten everything snug. I never give it that "one last turn" and never tighten down screws with an electric screwdriver. I use one, but stop before the screws hit bottom, and use hand tools the rest of the way.

And finally Durango is registered in the UK. I think they speak English over there...
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:49 PM   #7766
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Durango isn't american.. The chief in charge Gerd, he's like german..
I didn't say "American".... I said "English"...i.e. = UK/Great Britain.
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:01 PM   #7767
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How are people liking the +8 carbon chassis for the 210 for indoor offroad compared to the stk alum chassis
i love mine as well i dont know if its the carbon chassis or the fact that it is 8 mm longer ? but as of now i am faster with my 17.5 blinky 8mm car then i am with with Mod car lol and i have got the same set up in both just the stock car is lighter with 8mm chassis , this is on a 18 to 20 second indoor clay track

i really want to try the plastic 8mm version thats coming out as well on the mod car i hope that has the same effect
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:28 PM   #7768
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I have found over torquing to be an issue with any plastic kit. The key for me is to tighten everything snug. I never give it that "one last turn" and never tighten down screws with an electric screwdriver. I use one, but stop before the screws hit bottom, and use hand tools the rest of the way.

And finally Durango is registered in the UK. I think they speak English over there...
+1, I do the same. I have two electric drivers and one has a clutch. I've found that for anything but really long screws that thread in fully (like the front bulkhead) even the lowest clutch setting is too tight. Stop just before it bottoms out and finish by hand.
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:39 PM   #7769
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i simply super glue the screws going into plastic and dont over tighten them, works perfect for me, i just turn the driver until it it finger tight, the glue holds it in place

the instructions are reletively simple as long as you pay attention and don't rush. I had no problems in my build and got through it very easily
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:04 PM   #7770
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I didn't say "American".... I said "English"...i.e. = UK/Great Britain.
Still would be an incorrect statement since the founder is German.

Anyway, is there an eta on the alum. +8 chassis from TD
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