coaltrain

iTrader: (1)

zylstra

me too alittle more weight makes it more stable.and it looks cool

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

Does anyone have an eta for that

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Just finished the build. Very impressed with the quality except the ball cups. Running the motor wires cleanly for the rm4 set up proved a challenge.

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

I think the stock body fits with elongated front holes.

Mid sept the RTRs are planned for release so hopefully around that time.

No official pic of the chassis TD320163 but on oople and TD site you can see it

Jonny5 you say you are no more than 3 pads from front MM stop. What size are the pads?

murky123

I run the RM setup. but I removed all the battery stops.
I have used velcro on my chassis and shorty's , that way I have no need for battery foams and I can put my shorty everywhere I want .
All the way up against the servo or all the way in the back against the tranny, or something in between.

My track can change grip levels within the hour. The way I described above I can use the full potential of the weight distribution of this buggy.

we must not forget that this buggy is the most balanced buggy on the market and this weight distribution is absolutely one of its best features.

I have also drilled 2 holes with a body reamer in my stock batterybrace.
When I but my shorty all the way in the back against the tranny, the + and - tabs will disappear under the batterybrace, with those 2 holes I can put the plugs in the tabs.

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

When do you have the bat foward and rear? Whats the track like then? What will it do Fwd and Rear

murky123

when a blue groove is coming up and there is high traction I will move the battery more forward.

when it is very dusty, low grip or when the track is blown out I move the battery more in the back

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Guess I should have clarified that, but when I reference battery pads I am referring to AE pads as they are most common.

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Has anyone ever tried the stock set up?

I always like to set my buggies to factory specs, try it first, and work from there. But with the springs included in the kit and the six hole pistons, the suspension is WAY too soft, and pretty much un-drivable. I used Losi 35 wt oil which according to Durango's chart is the same as the 450 cts they recommend in the manual.

Does anyone have a spring and oil set up I can use with the six hole pistons 1.2 or 1.3?

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

The main reason we started running 4 hole pistons is that the car bottoms too easily with 6 holes. You could go way up on oil, but that's more of a band aid. Had the car handling well through the turns with 6 holes, but bottomed even on small doubles. It's pretty easy to close off some holes in the stock pistons- CA glue a toothpick into the hole, trim it off flush on both sides, then put a drop of CA on both sides of the piston to cap the holes off.

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

I see that just about everyone runs 4 hole even the team guys. Its a known issue, so why dont they add them to the kit? or sell them as an option?

Maybe they should add some toothpicks to the kit!

Aaronk99

I was running pistons with closed off holes but recently i picked up some of durango's new 4 hole tapered pistons featuring a 1.0mm hole so the car doesnt bottom out as easy,i just tested new layout today and my 210 buggy was screamin'

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

So what oils are you guys running with 4 hole 1.2mm pistons? Was thinking 30 frt/25 rear.

Aaronk99

I was 32.5 frt. 30 rear running same pistons with shorty pack