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Old 08-30-2012, 11:03 AM   #7486
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Gearing u will have to play with some but watch your temps. I run a 10.5 and am using 25/78 gearing. That's fine for me now.

Servo, standard is fine.

Battery, TrakPower shorty is an awesome battery. That's what I run. It makes room for weight adjustment. You can move it around with no problems. Just need to add foam to the try. I run mine all the way forward.
+1. Battery will fit with a full size servo (have a savox 1258 in), even all the way forward using the battery stop in the MM position. That Tkp 4400 out rips the other shorty packs we've tried, great packs!

For gearing we're at 24-25/81 with a mildly boosted 8.5. With a 9.5 you'll probably be 2-3 teeth higher. Don't bother with the stock spur- get either a 78 or 81. RW has nice ones, the new TD machined ones are very nice too. Or Tresrey makes a slipper plate/layshaft set that allows you to use spurs for AE cars. I'll be using that setup on my new SC as I have loads of JC Machined spurs from my sc10.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:36 AM   #7487
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Johnny,

When you guys are running the standard chassis, where do you normally run the battery? Do you run it up against the mm batt stop? RM batt stop?

Thanks looking for a starting point.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:07 PM   #7488
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Johnny,

When you guys are running the standard chassis, where do you normally run the battery? Do you run it up against the mm batt stop? RM batt stop?

Thanks looking for a starting point.
We always have the stop forward in the MM position. It's usually no further back than 3 pads of the stop, depending on track conditions. Cush likes a lot of steering and an aggressive feeling car, so it may vary for you. Either way, having the stop in the forward position allows extra adjustment.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:13 PM   #7489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tate72 View Post
Gearing u will have to play with some but watch your temps. I run a 10.5 and am using 25/78 gearing. That's fine for me now.

Servo, standard is fine.

Battery, TrakPower shorty is an awesome battery. That's what I run. It gives you room for weight adjustment, by moving it forward or back. Just need to add foam to the tray. I run mine all the way forward.
Thanks Tate I appriciate it.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:31 PM   #7490
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Default 12mm Front Hex Mod

Ok I just bolted the new axials on the car and took some more pictures to compare with the stock set.

From this picture you can see that with this mod the front axial will be in the 3mm position. That is what I normally run so it works for me.




Here I was measuring the back spacing to the inside lip of the rim. To keep the stock spacing you will need to run 4mm of shims on the hex side.





Mounted on the car.

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Old 08-30-2012, 01:42 PM   #7491
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
We always have the stop forward in the MM position. It's usually no further back than 3 pads of the stop, depending on track conditions. Cush likes a lot of steering and an aggressive feeling car, so it may vary for you. Either way, having the stop in the forward position allows extra adjustment.
+1, that's what's so great about this buggy, it's just so adjustable. (:

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Thanks Tate I appriciate it.
anytime dude (:
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:21 PM   #7492
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Default 12mm Hex for Rear

Here is the Rear 12mm Hex from Avid (part #AV1002-RR). The kit does not come with the shorter axial pins needed, so I used the ones I already had from Tresrey. You could just trim the stock pins to fit. I also used 2 very thin axial shims between the hex and bearing.

The rear width is exactly the same.



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Old 08-30-2012, 03:14 PM   #7493
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Any pics of the new composite +8mm Durango chassis out. I did a search but nothing was found.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:30 PM   #7494
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Any pics of the new composite +8mm Durango chassis out. I did a search but nothing was found.
Just look at the rtr 210 on the TD site...there it is
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:12 PM   #7495
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Any pics of the new composite +8mm Durango chassis out. I did a search but nothing was found.
I emailed the Team Manager for Durango today and he said as of yesterday there is no solid date yet. I also Texted Travis Amezcua today and he said at HotRod there was too much traction with it but he prefers it at WCRC.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:33 PM   #7496
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Originally Posted by Atomicsickness View Post
Here is the Rear 12mm Hex from Avid (part #AV1002-RR). The kit does not come with the shorter axial pins needed, so I used the ones I already had from Tresrey. You could just trim the stock pins to fit. I also used 2 very thin axial shims between the hex and bearing.

The rear width is exactly the same.
Hey John, just wanted to say "Good job" for the walk through and including pics, parts #'s etc..I know you said you stole the idea from Jeremy, but I felt like I was there building it with you..lol
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:37 PM   #7497
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Hey John, just wanted to say "Good job" for the walk through and including pics, parts #'s etc..I know you said you stole the idea from Jeremy, but I felt like I was there building it with you..lol
+1!
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:49 PM   #7498
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Just look at the rtr 210 on the TD site...there it is

Not really what I was looking for but thanks or the help.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:57 PM   #7499
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Hey John, just wanted to say "Good job" for the walk through and including pics, parts #'s etc..I know you said you stole the idea from Jeremy, but I felt like I was there building it with you..lol
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+1!
Thanks! I hope folks get some use from them.

It is amazing what you can do with a camera phone today. Click pics as you work and it automagically uploads them to photobucket with image links.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:03 PM   #7500
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Originally Posted by jackcarter3 View Post
Any pics of the new composite +8mm Durango chassis out. I did a search but nothing was found.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackcarter3 View Post
Not really what I was looking for but thanks or the help.
From what I have been told the composite +8mm chassis is going to be the same chassis as the RTR. Looks like you will need the RTR body for it also because of the bracing in the front. I'll wait for the aluminum +8mm.
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