Durango DEX210 Thread
#7126
Tech Elite
iTrader: (125)
[QUOTE=brians11;11067908]So far, there doesn't seem to be a 'fast' tire yet. We got new dirt at the beginning of July and are still searching.
I've tried Rattlers, but the track gets a little dust on it at times and gets really slick. I totally forgot about the toe inserts for the hubs and such. I saw the options on the setup sheet, but just thought I was missing something. I'll keep this in mind next time.
I think your fine with the pistons. I like 1.3 x 4 pretty much everywhere. Could also try a softer rear spring.
I've tried Rattlers, but the track gets a little dust on it at times and gets really slick. I totally forgot about the toe inserts for the hubs and such. I saw the options on the setup sheet, but just thought I was missing something. I'll keep this in mind next time.
I think your fine with the pistons. I like 1.3 x 4 pretty much everywhere. Could also try a softer rear spring.
#7127
[QUOTE=brians11;11067908]So far, there doesn't seem to be a 'fast' tire yet. We got new dirt at the beginning of July and are still searching.
I've tried Rattlers, but the track gets a little dust on it at times and gets really slick. I totally forgot about the toe inserts for the hubs and such. I saw the options on the setup sheet, but just thought I was missing something. I'll keep this in mind next time.
My apologies, you would actually want to take a rear ballstud washer out instead of put one in. I run #55x4 piston front and rear which I believe equates to 1.2. My pistons are also tapered and I run 30wt front oil and 27.5wt rear oil. I advise making one change at a time during practice. Run 3-5 laps make a change, run 3-5 laps, make another change. This way you know exactly what you're changing and how it effects your handling so in the future you know how to solve setup issues. This car is very responsive to small changes. A washer here or there or a shock change and you can really feel a difference so don't do every change at once. There's no easy button with car setups. Baby steps... Ha
I've tried Rattlers, but the track gets a little dust on it at times and gets really slick. I totally forgot about the toe inserts for the hubs and such. I saw the options on the setup sheet, but just thought I was missing something. I'll keep this in mind next time.
My apologies, you would actually want to take a rear ballstud washer out instead of put one in. I run #55x4 piston front and rear which I believe equates to 1.2. My pistons are also tapered and I run 30wt front oil and 27.5wt rear oil. I advise making one change at a time during practice. Run 3-5 laps make a change, run 3-5 laps, make another change. This way you know exactly what you're changing and how it effects your handling so in the future you know how to solve setup issues. This car is very responsive to small changes. A washer here or there or a shock change and you can really feel a difference so don't do every change at once. There's no easy button with car setups. Baby steps... Ha
#7129
#7130
Sort of. It doesn't equate exactly, and when we're dealing with holes this small a fractionally different hole makes a big difference. Amain sells a nice kit with a pin vise and all of the sizes you'll ever need, both number drills and metric drills that go up by .05mm at a time. Highly recommended to get this kit so if you are copying setups you can copy it exactly. If I say I'm using a 4x1.2 and you use a number drill that is actually 1.17, it will behave differently. Just saying.
#7131
Hey Guys,
Started assembling my 210 last night. So far pretty impressed w/ the quality of the kit. Fit and finish is top notch
After reading over the forums and all the tips and tricks I felt prepared for the turnbuckle assembly, but had no idea what a PITA it would be; those buggers are friggin tight! Also, is there a better alternative to the plastic shock cap and plastic pre-load nut for the shocks? I'm guessing the plastic will be fine, but from prior builds, I'm used to those pieces being metal.
SoCal
Started assembling my 210 last night. So far pretty impressed w/ the quality of the kit. Fit and finish is top notch
After reading over the forums and all the tips and tricks I felt prepared for the turnbuckle assembly, but had no idea what a PITA it would be; those buggers are friggin tight! Also, is there a better alternative to the plastic shock cap and plastic pre-load nut for the shocks? I'm guessing the plastic will be fine, but from prior builds, I'm used to those pieces being metal.
SoCal
#7132
Hey Guys,
Started assembling my 210 last night. So far pretty impressed w/ the quality of the kit. Fit and finish is top notch
After reading over the forums and all the tips and tricks I felt prepared for the turnbuckle assembly, but had no idea what a PITA it would be; those buggers are friggin tight! Also, is there a better alternative to the plastic shock cap and plastic pre-load nut for the shocks? I'm guessing the plastic will be fine, but from prior builds, I'm used to those pieces being metal.
SoCal
Started assembling my 210 last night. So far pretty impressed w/ the quality of the kit. Fit and finish is top notch
After reading over the forums and all the tips and tricks I felt prepared for the turnbuckle assembly, but had no idea what a PITA it would be; those buggers are friggin tight! Also, is there a better alternative to the plastic shock cap and plastic pre-load nut for the shocks? I'm guessing the plastic will be fine, but from prior builds, I'm used to those pieces being metal.
SoCal
#7133
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
Hi Racers,
New goods in stock;
http://www.exotekracing.com/latest-products/
And we've got many more in the works.
Thanks!
New goods in stock;
http://www.exotekracing.com/latest-products/
And we've got many more in the works.
Thanks!
#7134
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Had a great first run in my 2wd race with this buggy in MM format, I picked it up from a fellow teammate and it was running a carpet setup so I was working hard every second to find what worked for the dirt track I was racing at. I managed a win in the B main and loved the wheelies down the long straight!!!!!
#7136
Tresrey sells the Cream rear CF tower, as well as the front. They are rock solid in terms of reliability and very pretty to look at also. We had similar breakage on Cush's buggy on flat landings- when one broke during a race he was leading it was time for some CF goodness.
#7137
I use the stock towers. I am guessing there was a bad batch made because everyone keeps saying they're breaking them. I am still using the one I got in my kit although I have spares. The carbon fiber towers will give you a severe handling change so its really driver preference on which towers you want to run.
#7138
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
The handling change wont mean anything to me as I am new to 2wd racing as a whole, I have only ran it once and managed a B main win with a setup on the buggy that was more geared to carpet racing. I want to keep the buggy in Mid Motor configuration and will be racing on tight dirt tracks. I have ordered the Cream towers front and rear aswell as the rear weight from Tresrey. Any other tips?
Thanks
Sean
Thanks
Sean
#7140
The handling change wont mean anything to me as I am new to 2wd racing as a whole, I have only ran it once and managed a B main win with a setup on the buggy that was more geared to carpet racing. I want to keep the buggy in Mid Motor configuration and will be racing on tight dirt tracks. I have ordered the Cream towers front and rear aswell as the rear weight from Tresrey. Any other tips?
Thanks
Sean
Thanks
Sean