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Old 08-02-2012, 05:53 AM   #7051
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@Jonny5 Car looks good. I'd really recommend getting rid of the excessively long motor wires and bullet connectors. Should any of them ever come loosing during a run it will damage your esc.
That was Ethan5050's car. I just quoted him on it, but I agree about the bullets on the motor wires.
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:44 AM   #7052
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Is anyone running AE wheels? I saw the front axle tresery offers but what about the rear? I have alot of tires for my AE cars and hate to buy that many more again.
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:04 AM   #7053
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Is anyone running AE wheels? I saw the front axle tresery offers but what about the rear? I have alot of tires for my AE cars and hate to buy that many more again.
You can run JC hexes on the back and use ae hex wheels, or use ae pin drive wheels with the original 410 style rear pin drive- just need a shorter pin.
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:31 AM   #7054
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OK question people and I will get to reading threw this thread but for now I just thought I would throw it out there, I just picked up a used DEX210 from a friend that raced it 3 times on carpet only. I am planning to race it on a tight hard packed track and would like to keep the mid motor configuration, as it is I am sure I will need to redo the shocks as it is stiff for the carpet setup but can you help me as to where I should go and what to do to make this work in the Mid mount config.

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Sean

Oh I am planning to get the rear weight from Tresery to add the needed weight for traction.
This is a good place to start
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...RC20120715.pdf

It is probably not going to b perfect because I am running a +8mm chassis, but I did get it to work well with STD chassis too. U should go buy 4 cheap scales from harbor freight and weigh your car rtr and see what percent of weight is over the rear wheels. You need to get it as closes to 65% as u can, this is the key to making it work. If u r at 63% or less it will be really loose.
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:49 AM   #7055
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This is a good place to start
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...RC20120715.pdf

It is probably not going to b perfect because I am running a +8mm chassis, but I did get it to work well with STD chassis too. U should go buy 4 cheap scales from harbor freight and weigh your car rtr and see what percent of weight is over the rear wheels. You need to get it as closes to 65% as u can, this is the key to making it work. If u r at 63% or less it will be really loose.
Thank you very much, I will take down what I have now and switch to this as a base.
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:31 PM   #7056
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Has anyone used the Kyosho BB shocks on the 210?
Not complaining with the 210 Big Bores.
Just curious.
I have the SCR-SP and those Big Bores are the best shocks i've used.
I've been contemplating on trying on a set on the 210.....
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:48 PM   #7057
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Has anyone tried a ball cup reamer to make the rpm cups large enough for the original ball studs?
At under 2 bucks Ill get one and test it out

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Old 08-02-2012, 02:29 PM   #7058
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What shock o rings are you guys running? I changed oil in my shocks the other night and was surprised to find the old oil was terribly dirty. About the color of chocolate milk. lol
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:40 PM   #7059
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Has anyone tried a ball cup reamer to make the rpm cups large enough for the original ball studs?
At under 2 bucks Ill get one and test it out

If you remove enough material to take the ball cup from 4.3mm (RPM size) to 4.7mm will you still have the strength you need?

IMO I think you would be better off by spending $12 to replace the ball studs with ones that work with the RPM ball cups unmodified.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:44 PM   #7060
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What shock o rings are you guys running? I changed oil in my shocks the other night and was surprised to find the old oil was terribly dirty. About the color of chocolate milk. lol
i tried what some one told me,johnny 5 and had no leaks or problems so far,use the orings from the small bore shocks from the 410 durango,they fit tight and let you tighten the cap down more so it does not leak or pull off the threads like it will do on big jumps...
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:17 PM   #7061
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i tried what some one told me,johnny 5 and had no leaks or problems so far,use the orings from the small bore shocks from the 410 durango,they fit tight and let you tighten the cap down more so it does not leak or pull off the threads like it will do on big jumps...
Thanks for the response but I'm actually talking about the orings in the bottom cartridge of the shock body.
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:20 PM   #7062
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Whoo, finally got my dex210 dialed to my usual 1/10 track, its outdoors, dry, dusty, rutted and bumpy with smallish jumps. I have never been so happy with it!
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:35 PM   #7063
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I am debating on picking up one of these cars and switching over from my other buggy. I was wondering what some of the recommended upgrades that are have-to's on this kit new. Can some people make some suggestions? Thank you!
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:51 PM   #7064
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Is there a front hex conversion out there for this car?
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:52 PM   #7065
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Whoo, finally got my dex210 dialed to my usual 1/10 track, its outdoors, dry, dusty, rutted and bumpy with smallish jumps. I have never been so happy with it!
Post your set up, please.
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