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Old 07-30-2012, 11:51 AM   #6991
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cT3-r...e_gdata_player

Here's the link to Cush's win on the indoor leg of the Futaba Electric Challenge.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:21 PM   #6992
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cT3-r...e_gdata_player

Here's the link to Cush's win on the indoor leg of the Futaba Electric Challenge.
Wow great race! Really fun to watch that one. The buggy handled great
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:37 PM   #6993
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cT3-r...e_gdata_player

Here's the link to Cush's win on the indoor leg of the Futaba Electric Challenge.
Car looks great with the +8 carbon chassis. Nice run
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:21 PM   #6994
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What ball cups are you guys using? I just finished building my kit and there is nothing that pisses me off more than the ball cups popping off when you are simply trying to adjust camber. I put black grease in there for lubrication of the threads in the ball cups, that doesn't seem to be the problem, they went together, but the POS stock ones pop off easily. I can't very well trust them on the track if they don't even hold up in the pits.

Any help is appreciated, thanks
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:31 PM   #6995
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@fastzach A trick I use before building the turnbuckles is to take a long 3mm screw and pre thread each ball end. this makes it super easy to adjust them later without having that issue. You can also take some soft jaw pliers and give each end a "pinch" on the area that the threaded turnbuckles is inside, this will make it a bit easier "printing" the threads a bit deeper.
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:46 PM   #6996
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What ball cups are you guys using? I just finished building my kit and there is nothing that pisses me off more than the ball cups popping off when you are simply trying to adjust camber. I put black grease in there for lubrication of the threads in the ball cups, that doesn't seem to be the problem, they went together, but the POS stock ones pop off easily. I can't very well trust them on the track if they don't even hold up in the pits.

Any help is appreciated, thanks
Losi or kyosho,but both would need 4.8 ball studs though (hpi is cheapest,K and L are same price I think). As usual durango ball studs are not standard sized. Also use white silicone grease for plastics black grease might break it down making it worse over time.

If you are hell bent on the stockers, put 2 hex drivers through the holes on the cups so they do not slip out.
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:04 PM   #6997
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@fastzach A trick I use before building the turnbuckles is to take a long 3mm screw and pre thread each ball end. this makes it super easy to adjust them later without having that issue. You can also take some soft jaw pliers and give each end a "pinch" on the area that the threaded turnbuckles is inside, this will make it a bit easier "printing" the threads a bit deeper.
Along these same lines, I simply chuck the turnbuckle in a small drill and prethread (with grease) every ballcup. Make a pile of rights and a pile of lefts. Then they build and adjust like butter. We still use stock ballstuds and cups exclusively.
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:37 PM   #6998
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Originally Posted by fastzach View Post
What ball cups are you guys using? I just finished building my kit and there is nothing that pisses me off more than the ball cups popping off when you are simply trying to adjust camber. I put black grease in there for lubrication of the threads in the ball cups, that doesn't seem to be the problem, they went together, but the POS stock ones pop off easily. I can't very well trust them on the track if they don't even hold up in the pits.

Any help is appreciated, thanks
AE metric ball studs for the TC5/TC6 and RPM ball cups. Best setup IMO.
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:59 PM   #6999
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Jonny- now that you have put some time on the +8 chassis, what are your thoughts on the added length over the stock length. I saw pics on oople of the rtr car with a molded +8 and hope that will be available if going to +8 are the way to go. I race on med to high bite clay indoor.
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:56 PM   #7000
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Default New 'Race Ready' RTR cars from Team Durango

Cats out the bag....can't wait for the chassis and body to be avail...nice that they will come with competitive Speed Passion electronics.

http://www.oople.com/forums/newreply...reply&p=679364
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:03 PM   #7001
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Wanted to thank all of those who have had input in this thread. Just read through all of the posts (wow that was alot of information). I feel that while my LHS support is not plentiful, I still like this buggy and what it has to offer in comparison to the other players. Unfortunately before the buyout, TD wasn't big in my area I guess and the LHS sent back all of the parts that were just collecting dust. I understand their position as it is a rather large place, and that is alot of inventory/cash to free up if its just sitting there.

Anyways, this leads me to plan ahead for preparing for any sort of breakage. I just plan on running stock buggy (17.5) as it is very popular along with stock SC in this area. So besides the below list, what else should I be looking at for extras (minus spare wheels/tires for changing track conditions, spare electronics, etc..) in case of breakage?

Front and Rear Arms
Steering Knuckle & Hub Set
Rear Driveshafts
Gear Cover
Shock Tower Set
Front Bulkhead & Susp. Mounts
Ball Diff Screw, Spring, Nut
?Extra Ball Diff Set? - Kind of as a "might as well" type thing, then don't need ball diff screw, spring, nut
HD Ball End Set

I would be looking at a couple of the Tresrey pieces for upgrades, but just small stuff like the steering plate and wheel hex's. Also looking at Bfast's pro driver's kit w/ carbide balls since it seems they were talked highly about on here.

Am I missing anything else? For just the stock parts, it seems like I'm only 80-90 away from buying a second kit, so is it worth it to just do that to have all spare bolts and pieces?

Thanks again!
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:04 PM   #7002
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Cats out the bag....can't wait for the chassis and body to be avail...nice that they will come with competitive Speed Passion electronics.

http://www.oople.com/forums/newreply...reply&p=679364
+1 for the composite chassis should be easy to wrench the rear now and a nice 13.5 included too!!!
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:40 PM   #7003
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Originally Posted by Crawlin View Post
Wanted to thank all of those who have had input in this thread. Just read through all of the posts (wow that was alot of information). I feel that while my LHS support is not plentiful, I still like this buggy and what it has to offer in comparison to the other players. Unfortunately before the buyout, TD wasn't big in my area I guess and the LHS sent back all of the parts that were just collecting dust. I understand their position as it is a rather large place, and that is alot of inventory/cash to free up if its just sitting there.

Anyways, this leads me to plan ahead for preparing for any sort of breakage. I just plan on running stock buggy (17.5) as it is very popular along with stock SC in this area. So besides the below list, what else should I be looking at for extras (minus spare wheels/tires for changing track conditions, spare electronics, etc..) in case of breakage?

Front and Rear Arms
Steering Knuckle & Hub Set
Rear Driveshafts
Gear Cover
Shock Tower Set
Front Bulkhead & Susp. Mounts
Ball Diff Screw, Spring, Nut
?Extra Ball Diff Set? - Kind of as a "might as well" type thing, then don't need ball diff screw, spring, nut
HD Ball End Set

I would be looking at a couple of the Tresrey pieces for upgrades, but just small stuff like the steering plate and wheel hex's. Also looking at Bfast's pro driver's kit w/ carbide balls since it seems they were talked highly about on here.

Am I missing anything else? For just the stock parts, it seems like I'm only 80-90 away from buying a second kit, so is it worth it to just do that to have all spare bolts and pieces?

Thanks again!
To be honest with you. The only thing you really need is the Tresrey steering plate. The Tresrey hexes are nice to have. Make life easier as I've lost a couple of pins. Although I've never broke the kit plastic toe blocks. I do have a machined alum 3/3 toe block for peice of mind. Have a 2/3 as well for tuning. Car is built like a tank. I have broken one rear shock tower on a freak upside down landing. Haven't broken anything else..Some folks swear by the carbon towers, but I've had no issues with the kit plastic towers ever since. I have a bunch of nip spares in my box that I've never needed...so far. Lol

The Bfast kit isn't needed. The kit ball diff is good. Just build it right.
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:16 PM   #7004
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@Jeff Werner- It's hard for me to exactly say since Cush is the one driving, but I can tell you that he loves the car with the long chassis, and I've never seen him look better driving a buggy. Initially he liked the standard length cf chassis better for indoor, but he ran the extended chassis this weekend inside as he tried the other car and preferred the stability the extended chassis gave him. I'm sure if we go to a track that's really tight the standard length will be preferred, but if you have both and know where you're racing making the switch back and forth isn't too bad really. I would say it really comes down to track layout as to which is better. Just another option to add to the vast list of tuning variables for this car

@Crawlin- your list looks good, maybe even a bit overkill, but that's about what I bring with too. IMO the Tresrey rack and aluminum toe blocks are must have. Otherwise the car is built very tough. If you want it bomb proof, throw on some cf towers. The Cream pieces from Tresrey have held up to everything Cush has thrown at it, and believe me, the kid pushes his cars hard and when he gets it wrong it gets really wrong. But the car gets marshalled and motors away- save for an occasional ballcup popping as it cartwheels away.. Oh yeah, the stock diff is very good for a stock diff- a BFast kit makes for the nicest, longest lasting diff I've ever built. Outdrives wear out before the BFast parts need to be replaced for us. Worth every penny to me.
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:19 PM   #7005
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Greatly appreciate the help. I honestly don't feel my driving is good enough to recognize the difference in shock towers. Plus just the $8 vs $60 thing, haha.

Could you explain the 3/3 and 3/2 numbers then? I mean I know what toe is about, just reading the tresrey site is a little hard to understand. Stock is 3* toe and then each one of those kits alters the kick up according to which block you have? what is the stock "kick up" then? I think I missed that in the thread somewhere or read past it. Or should I be looking different manufacturer for the blocks?
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