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Old 07-26-2012, 07:46 PM   #6961
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What gearing do you recommend when running 17.5 Blinky? Getting some gears in the offseason and did not know what spurs to keep on hand.
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:51 PM   #6962
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner View Post
Is there anywhere I can get an aluminum rear toe block that has 3' toe and zero anti-squat?
I do and still have some in stock, as well as 1.5* and 3*, and if you want I also have shims to raise the 0* to 1.5 or 3*, and the +8mm aluminum chassis comming soon.

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I'm curious if anyone else is having the same problem I am; I keep breaking front C-Hubs. I've broken 4 now and they all had one thing in common, they all had a void in the mold just below the camber mounting holes. I believe this void is weakening the part and creating most of my issues. Is anyone else breaking these with some regularity? The car will usually take some decent hits without issue, but this one piece is a pretty regular race ender for me and it's usually on a small hit. Any thoughts/solutions would be appreciated.
I was talking to one of the Great Hobbies team drivers and he recently built a new car the exact same way as the first and has broken 2 rear hubs and 2 c hubs on the new car, but not a single thing on the old car, we think there was a bad batch of plastic. My car is an early car and its been bulletproof for me, including many hard hits to the shock towers
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:55 PM   #6963
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Do you know if he cut down the axle? I have to use a lot more spacers than that.
No, I did not cut the axle down. It is an extremely tight fit though. The spacer that comes with the axle is closest to the screw, then, there is on spacer on each side of the bearings. So, 3 spacers per side and width is exactly the same as before.
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:32 AM   #6964
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Originally Posted by Jeff Werner View Post
What gearing do you recommend when running 17.5 Blinky? Getting some gears in the offseason and did not know what spurs to keep on hand.
Pick yourself up some 69 & 75 spurs. Pinions from 30t and up.
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:52 AM   #6965
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rcjunky, I wish I could say it was a "bad batch" issue. The car is from the second set of cars to come to the states, and the C-Hubs I broke are from the first batch into the states and obviously the ones that originally came on the car and they all break the same way. I think way the mold is designed is causing the problem (I believe Losi had this issue initially with the XXX-4 arms). It feeds from 2 plugs, one at the top and one at the bottom of the C-Hub and where they meet, the void is forming. I have about 3 bags worth of C-Hubs currently (and 5-6 bags of front knuckles and rear hubs, hahaha) so I'm hoping these will last me a little while, but I would love to just replace that part with aluminum. I believe the surrounding parts are stong enough to take the abuse; though at this point, this seems to be an issue only I am having.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:04 AM   #6966
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Exotek!!
http://www.redrc.net/2012/07/exotek-...ts/#more-57176
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:50 AM   #6967
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Looking at some set up sheets and I see a lot of people are using full droop. Just curious as to how they are doing this. If I take the droop screw out of rear arm so there is full droop and when holding it in the air I pull the trigger and I have the dogbone almost out of the diff cups and the chatter from the cva is bad. Just wondering if there is a measurement like we use to use on the 1/8 scale to measure droop. Center of upper to center of lower shock mount bolt
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:02 AM   #6968
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Originally Posted by scr8pn4205 View Post
Looking at some set up sheets and I see a lot of people are using full droop. Just curious as to how they are doing this. If I take the droop screw out of rear arm so there is full droop and when holding it in the air I pull the trigger and I have the dogbone almost out of the diff cups and the chatter from the cva is bad. Just wondering if there is a measurement like we use to use on the 1/8 scale to measure droop. Center of upper to center of lower shock mount bolt
This is also affected by how long you run your rear shocks and what holes they're mounted.

I run full droop screws installed.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:47 AM   #6969
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Thats what Im wondering about is the length people are using on the shocks....eyelet to eyelet. Right now im middle top and middle to outside on bottom mount location
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:51 AM   #6970
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This is also affected by how long you run your rear shocks and what holes they're mounted.

I run full droop screws installed.
and you have no driveshaft chatter when u pull the trigger and the suspension is at full droop???
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:00 PM   #6971
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No
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:40 PM   #6972
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No
u running 3 or 1.5 squat
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:45 PM   #6973
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2 at the moment.
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:16 AM   #6974
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The outdrives on the gear diff are much longer then the ones on the ball diff, this is primarily why I run full droop, before I couldn't.
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:31 AM   #6975
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The outdrives on the gear diff are much longer then the ones on the ball diff, this is primarily why I run full droop, before I couldn't.
Thanks makes sense.. With the ball diff at 1.5 squat my dogbone pin is half way out of the diff cup at full droop when rotated so the pins are up and down at full droop
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