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Old 07-22-2012, 03:09 AM   #6916
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How many twists does your ball diff spring have? All of the pictures I see on the durango site have 3 twists. The two springs I have have 4 twists. Having a lot of trouble with getting the diff right, it's like the diff spring is too long.

oof, but you get the idea...
Slipper spring, new diff spring, old diff spring, zx5 diff spring

IMG_0050 by silvalis, on Flickr

Spring off the durango site
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/wp-...ush-spring.jpg
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Last edited by silvalis; 07-22-2012 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:54 AM   #6917
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Originally Posted by JeremyHarris View Post
Yes, it fits the B4.1, Kyosho, and Team C wheels. I used the new Team Durango steering knuckle, Team Kyosho front axle (one with the hex already on it), and the Kyosho axle shims. The Team Durango axles should be out soon and or are already out. I know my lhs has them on backorder. I asked Jorn what axles he uses and he had his custom made.. ha
Do you have a part # for the knuckle? Is it available yet?
Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:06 AM   #6918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
How many twists does your ball diff spring have? All of the pictures I see on the durango site have 3 twists. The two springs I have have 4 twists. Having a lot of trouble with getting the diff right, it's like the diff spring is too long.

oof, but you get the idea...
Slipper spring, new diff spring, old diff spring, zx5 diff spring

IMG_0050 by silvalis, on Flickr

Spring off the durango site
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/wp-...ush-spring.jpg
What do you mean when you say "right"? It not getting tight enough?
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:14 AM   #6919
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If I set it loose similar to my RB5 the end of the axle hits the diff bolt and the diff slips.
If i screw it down tight enough to clear the axle, the diff is too tight and I have zero diff action. I actually tried to run it earlier and I think I flattened the diff balls because it was so tight.

This is following that diff build guide on the website too.. I've rebuilt this several times and ordered the new diff screw/spring because I initially thought the spring was too long.

This means I've checked and rechecked the thrust washer, sanded the plates, etc, etc...
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:22 AM   #6920
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If I set it loose similar to my RB5 the end of the axle hits the diff bolt and the diff slips.
If i screw it down tight enough to clear the axle, the diff is too tight and I have zero diff action. I actually tried to run it earlier and I think I flattened the diff balls because it was so tight.

This is following that diff build guide on the website too.. I've rebuilt this several times and ordered the new diff screw/spring because I initially thought the spring was too long.

This means I've checked and rechecked the thrust washer, sanded the plates, etc, etc...
How are you breaking it in? If you used stock balls and tried to tighten it to where the nut sits flush in the outdrive all at once, you very well could have flat spotted the balls. During break in it usually takes 4-5 times of "running it in" and tightening a little bit after to actually get it tight enough
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:54 AM   #6921
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
How are you breaking it in? If you used stock balls and tried to tighten it to where the nut sits flush in the outdrive all at once, you very well could have flat spotted the balls. During break in it usually takes 4-5 times of "running it in" and tightening a little bit after to actually get it tight enough
+1. And also, if you suspect the clip was compressed too long, replace it.. I have had an issue with my last diff build with a faulty clip. I thought it was good, but after replacing it with another one. No problems. Also, pick some clips up from Mcmaster, a bag of 50 clips is just as cheap as a small TD bag.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:35 PM   #6922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Perkins View Post
Do you have a part # for the knuckle? Is it available yet?
Thanks!
Td330382 for $4.50 and it is available!
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:54 PM   #6923
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Looks like this is all that is needed for the 12mm hex fronts. I just compiled it from what J. Harris posted but with links to the parts.
Steering Knuckle:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCNYC&P=7

Axle Shaft:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-RB5-WC-2

Axle Spacers:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Axle-Spacers

Wheele Nuts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Gold-4

Last edited by nolimit208; 07-23-2012 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:32 AM   #6924
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Originally Posted by nolimit208 View Post
Looks like this is all that is needed for the 12mm hex fronts. I just compiled it from what J. Harris posted but with links to the parts.
Steering Knuckle:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCNYC&P=7

Axle Shaft:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-RB5-WC-2

Axle Spacers:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Axle-Spacers

Wheele Nuts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Gold-4
Thanks!! That is exactly what I used!
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:52 AM   #6925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nolimit208 View Post
Looks like this is all that is needed for the 12mm hex fronts. I just compiled it from what J. Harris posted but with links to the parts.
Steering Knuckle:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCNYC&P=7

Axle Shaft:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-RB5-WC-2

Axle Spacers:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Axle-Spacers

Wheele Nuts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Gold-4
Sorry for stepping in late but what is this conversion for?
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:07 AM   #6926
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Originally Posted by Garnold View Post
Sorry for stepping in late but what is this conversion for?
If you look on page back there is a picture. It is the front hex option for the 210.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:10 AM   #6927
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Originally Posted by JeremyHarris View Post
If you look on page back there is a picture. It is the front hex option for the 210.
Thank you. That it pretty cool. I'm guessing you would have to buy new front wheels to support this correct?

Really cool idea!

Also, is the 12mm hex the standard for this size buggy and 14mm for a 4wd buggy? My 410 has the upgraded 14mm hex on it when I bought it and that seems to be the standard. Sorry about this dumb ones
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:14 AM   #6928
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Originally Posted by Garnold View Post
Thank you. That it pretty cool. I'm guessing you would have to buy new front wheels to support this correct?

Really cool idea!
Yes, you would need a 12mm hex front wheel such as the B4.1, Kyosho, Team C wheels all fit. They're more "standard". You can also use the JC adapter on the rear to run 12mm hex wheels on the rear, that way you can run the 12mm wheels all the way around. I prefer this, not only because I happen to have a ton of 12mm wheels but because I can be at a race and borrow a wheel more easily... Ha

Durango uses 14mm hexes on their 2x and 4x buggies. All other companies use 12mm with the exception of Losi who uses a 10mm hex on the front of the 22. I wish everyone would just come out with a standard wheel/offset...
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:17 AM   #6929
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Originally Posted by JeremyHarris View Post
Yes, you would need a 12mm hex front wheel such as the B4.1, Kyosho, Team C wheels all fit. They're more "standard". You can also use the JC adapter on the rear to run 12mm hex wheels on the rear, that way you can run the 12mm wheels all the way around. I prefer this, not only because I happen to have a ton of 12mm wheels but because I can be at a race and borrow a wheel more easily... Ha
Nice!

And again, 14mm is more the standard for a 4wd buggy like my 410 correct?

If I did this could I share wheels with my buddies 22?
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:29 AM   #6930
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Hi there

With which pinion you would start with a 9,5 turn engine on a medium size, mid traction track with stock spur?
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