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Old 07-10-2012, 10:17 AM   #6796
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Just finished the build on the car including a Finnisher body (it'll need some strategic sticker placement). Built in MM4 to start. We'll see how long that lasts. Just waiting on return of my charger and batteries and i'll be all set. Playing with NiMh at the moment to test before heading to the track. Only ran up and down the street a couple of times so far. I can tell that I'll need to play with gearing. I have a 33/72 combo at the moment. Plan on hitting the track this weekend or sooner.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:58 AM   #6797
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kinda a dumb question but are their better or worse slipper pads , and do they make a slotted slipper plate or pad for this buggy, i noticed when i ran the other day i temp the slipper at 140 everything else was under 120 ,, i know it was loose because im trying to wear them in for smoothness
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:15 AM   #6798
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kinda a dumb question but are their better or worse slipper pads , and do they make a slotted slipper plate or pad for this buggy, i noticed when i ran the other day i temp the slipper at 140 everything else was under 120 ,, i know it was loose because im trying to wear them in for smoothness
Running it loose will glaze the pads over and hurt performance, and also lead to excessive heat like you found. We use stock pads without issue. If your pads are glazed try flipping them over to the fresh side and setting the slipper correctly- the heat should decrease considerably.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:41 PM   #6799
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Running it loose will glaze the pads over and hurt performance, and also lead to excessive heat like you found. We use stock pads without issue. If your pads are glazed try flipping them over to the fresh side and setting the slipper correctly- the heat should decrease considerably.
couldn't i just use a fine grit sand paper on the glazed side just to save the other side untill i need it
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:00 PM   #6800
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couldn't i just use a fine grit sand paper on the glazed side just to save the other side untill i need it
I always found using a razor blade to scrape the glaze off works quite well.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:31 PM   #6801
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I always found using a razor blade to scrape the glaze off works quite well.
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:56 PM   #6802
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Hello, well let me start off with saying this is my first 2wd buggy and i hope this was the right choice.. I was debating between the rb5 sp2 wc, and this... Well needless to say i bought the dex... Well I've been going through the this thread and can't find a solid answer so maybe you guys can help me...

ok are the ball cups really that bad? and if so can you tell me a good solid fix(losi,rpm,lungsford cups) with parts numbers.

and finally is there any hop-ups i need for a rock solid racer, and what extra parts should i keep on hand???? Well sorry for the story guys all your input would be greatly appreciated..... thanks!!!!!
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:00 PM   #6803
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Originally Posted by Ethan5050 View Post
Hello, well let me start off with saying this is my first 2wd buggy and i hope this was the right choice.. I was debating between the rb5 sp2 wc, and this... Well needless to say i bought the dex, well I've been going through the this thread and can't find a solid answer so maybe you guys can help me...

ok are the ball cups really that bad? and if so can you tell me a good solid fix(losi,rpm,lungsford cups) with parts numbers.

and finally is there any hop-ups i need for a rock solid racer, and whats extra parts should i keep on hand???? Well sorry for the story guys all your input would be greatly appreciated..... thanks!!!!!
Yep the stockers are really really bad. Replace with lunsford 4.8s or if you have the cash Kyosho hard ends - both will require ball studs to go with since the rango is a little non standard size and bit loose with both brands above (ipersonally found the k ball studs breakable so I use the hpi 4.8 come cheap and tough).

I have both the wc and the dex210. The dex210 is a shelf queen until the molded chassis comes out. Even after I might still keep the kyosho since it likes my driving style so much better and very little slop compared to the rango.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-End-Set-10 X 2 and
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Stud-10 X 2

with this option you can use the rango turnbuckles since the ball ends are long.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Cups-12 with this option you need fatter and longer 3.5mm turnbuckles since the ends are small.

People have used losi but I personally stay away from that brand. No hop ups compulsory but if possible get the ftw racing carbon steering plate and do the capt america mod described previously in the thread. And keep a set of f/r arms and rear hubs nearby. Car is quite tough out of the box.
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:14 PM   #6804
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and do the capt america mod described previously in the thread.
FYI, the Cpt.America mod is only needed if running 30+ degrees of caster. 25 or less and it's unneeded.
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:32 PM   #6805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan5050 View Post
Hello, well let me start off with saying this is my first 2wd buggy and i hope this was the right choice.. I was debating between the rb5 sp2 wc, and this... Well needless to say i bought the dex... Well I've been going through the this thread and can't find a solid answer so maybe you guys can help me...

ok are the ball cups really that bad? and if so can you tell me a good solid fix(losi,rpm,lungsford cups) with parts numbers.

and finally is there any hop-ups i need for a rock solid racer, and what extra parts should i keep on hand???? Well sorry for the story guys all your input would be greatly appreciated..... thanks!!!!!
There is nothing wrong with the kit ball cups. I had a kit from the first batch and I've never had one pop off during quite a few rough tumbles. The factory Durango guys use them. Just build em right. Grease the turnbuckle threads. I actually threaded mine all the way in and out of the cup a couple of times. Yes it's an extra step and a pain, but worth the trouble.
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Last edited by kwiksi; 07-10-2012 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #6806
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Originally Posted by P6 View Post
kinda a dumb question but are their better or worse slipper pads , and do they make a slotted slipper plate or pad for this buggy, i noticed when i ran the other day i temp the slipper at 140 everything else was under 120 ,, i know it was loose because im trying to wear them in for smoothness
Vented slipper plates should be out mid month.

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310272
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:46 PM   #6807
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If anyone is looking for a 210 I have one for sale FS: DEX210 roller
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:23 PM   #6808
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
FYI, the Cpt.America mod is only needed if running 30+ degrees of caster. 25 or less and it's unneeded.
Did not know that
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:45 PM   #6809
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Yep the stockers are really really bad. Replace with lunsford 4.8s or if you have the cash Kyosho hard ends - both will require ball studs to go with since the rango is a little non standard size and bit loose with both brands above (ipersonally found the k ball studs breakable so I use the hpi 4.8 come cheap and tough).

I have both the wc and the dex210. The dex210 is a shelf queen until the molded chassis comes out. Even after I might still keep the kyosho since it likes my driving style so much better and very little slop compared to the rango.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-End-Set-10 X 2 and
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Stud-10 X 2

with this option you can use the rango turnbuckles since the ball ends are long.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Cups-12 with this option you need fatter and longer 3.5mm turnbuckles since the ends are small.

People have used losi but I personally stay away from that brand. No hop ups compulsory but if possible get the ftw racing carbon steering plate and do the capt america mod described previously in the thread. And keep a set of f/r arms and rear hubs nearby. Car is quite tough out of the box.

So it has lots of slop in the steering, is their any way to get rid of that?
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:46 PM   #6810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
There is nothing wrong with the kit ball cups. I had a kit from the first batch and I've never had one pop off during quite a few rough tumbles. The factory Durango guys use them. Just build em right. Grease the turnbuckle threads. I actually threaded mine all the way in and out of the cup a couple of times. Yes it's an extra step and a pain, but worth the trouble.
I kept the stock ones for a while but was at a big race and in the rythem section my rear ones would pop off and didn't it almost every qualifier and 2 out of 3 amains which caused me the race. They were brand new also. I replace them before this race.

So now I use Losi Titanium turnbuckle/ballcups/ball studs got the while kit for $35 bucks.
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