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Old 07-07-2012, 09:35 PM   #6781
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Any chance you could tell us your total weight Randy with the composite chassis.
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:39 PM   #6782
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What oil you guys running in your gear diffs?
Black grease. I dont use any diff fluid. I found it rotates alot better with the black gear grease.
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:04 PM   #6783
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Ditch the MM3...your not doing yourself any favors in loose/dusty tracks. Go RM4.
You can try my recent setup that I ran with 17.5 in blinky for outdoor low to med bite.
All 17.5 mfr's motors are a bit diff so go by temp.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...603/index.html
Thanks for the info mate. Just a quick one, in your setup you mention and.1 inserts not knowing the tyres already came with and.1 I bpurchased and.1 firm inserts seperately and glued them up. Will the firm inserts make a huge difference over the ones that come with the tyres standard?

Thanks,
Adrian
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:26 PM   #6784
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double post
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:26 PM   #6785
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Thanks for the info mate. Just a quick one, in your setup you mention and.1 inserts not knowing the tyres already came with and.1 I bpurchased and.1 firm inserts seperately and glued them up. Will the firm inserts make a huge difference over the ones that come with the tyres standard?

Thanks,
Adrian
Your welcome Adrian
Tires were JConcepts Groovies & Flipouts in rear. Track was hard packed with some loose dirt. Too dusty for Double Dees, but not loose enough for Goosebumps.
JConcepts all come with And1 inserts. I use a cut down rear foam (3/4)in the front tire though.
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Old 07-08-2012, 09:10 PM   #6786
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Just getting ready to order some pinions and spur gears. Any suggestions for a 17.5 Orion motor?
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:09 PM   #6787
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I run 69/34 soon to be 35 as the Novak 17.5 likes to be geared up

^^Thanks again David.
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:24 AM   #6788
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Any tips on removing shock caps or taking shocks apart withou scratching the bodies all up. Any special shock tools I might be missing. I know some kits come with plastic shock wrenches for working on your shocks.

Just use a pair of pliers and with the cutting bit of it lift up the rubber grommet at the base and clamp it there, that part of the shock doesn't go near the orings anyway, This is how I do mine and they still look pretty darn good


Ahhh your talking about the bodies after I re read the post, anyway I just jse a rag and do mine hand tight then give it a little crank, has never come loose yet
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:13 AM   #6789
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Just getting ready to order some pinions and spur gears. Any suggestions for a 17.5 Orion motor?
I would get a 69 & 75. I've played with motors that liked both.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:00 PM   #6790
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Anyone using the TD alloy rear hubs? What is the shimming spec to set the ball stud at the same height as the plastic hubs?
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:15 PM   #6791
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Anyone using the TD alloy rear hubs? What is the shimming spec to set the ball stud at the same height as the plastic hubs?
I don't have the alloy ones but measurement from hinge pin to center of ball stud is about 27mm's. Should be able to get it to stock height using a set of callipers.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:54 PM   #6792
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Well if you happen to use the Lunsford ball studs then 4mm is the smallest you can go since the 8mm stud is 1mm too long to fully screw into the hub with just a 3mm spacer. I use 4mm and have no problems, no rubbing on the rim at all.
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:56 AM   #6793
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I don't have the alloy ones but measurement from hinge pin to center of ball stud is about 27mm's. Should be able to get it to stock height using a set of callipers.
We've got 2.5mm under the ballstud on the alloy hubs. That's the minimum amount of shims you can put in with the stock length ballstud, though you could dremel a bit off the end if you want to lower it some more.

Another note on the aluminum hubs- we have the Tresrey clamping hexes on both buggies, and when I tried to tighten the wheel I got some serious binding. After a bit of fiddling with shims I found that placing 3 silver and 1 copper shims (the ones found in the package with the Tresrey hubs) inside the outer bearing acts like a crush tube and allows you to tighten it up with no bind at all. I'll measure the thickness of the shim stack next time it all comes apart, but that should help anyone having the same issue get it resolved.
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Last edited by Jonny5; 07-10-2012 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:40 AM   #6794
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
Just use a pair of pliers and with the cutting bit of it lift up the rubber grommet at the base and clamp it there, that part of the shock doesn't go near the orings anyway, This is how I do mine and they still look pretty darn good


Ahhh your talking about the bodies after I re read the post, anyway I just jse a rag and do mine hand tight then give it a little crank, has never come loose yet
thanks for tip on the shaft.
yeah just bought the buggy used and shock caps appear to be on pretty tight.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:06 AM   #6795
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Just got word from Tresrey that the red motor plates are in stock and ready to ship. These are machined for extra cooling and of course have the signature red anodizing.
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