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Old 06-25-2012, 01:04 PM   #6646
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QUOTE=Raul Garcia;10893724]Welcome to the club. The 210 is the most versitile car out there out of the box. And with our support, youll be winning in no time flat!. Electronics are a flavor of the minute type thing. If it wins on Sunday, it sells on Monday. With that being said, Speed Passion ESC, either the Tresrey SP 2.0 or the stnadard 2.0, difference is the color. For motor the SP V3.0 17.5 or SP MMM 17.5, and they just released new rotors, and sensor boards for power increase options. Sort of like Pac-Man's power pellets.
Your also going to want to have 69-75 spurs for gear tuning. The stock spur is way too big to get the RRRRRR's you want. Does your track run 17.5 blinky or 17.5 boosted? Speed Passion offers tunning and updates.
There are other speedo's out there too, such as:
Tekin RS- good for stock and mod you dont need the pro.
Lrp SXX Stock Spec also very good.
Viper VtxPro
Novak
But Im a little biased.[/QUOTE]

Thanks guys for the support. I had been reading this thread for a couple of months before i decided to pick up the 210 so I'm sure I made a good choice. I ended up picking up a couple of bits for the car already. Just me being a tinkerer and looking at some of the things you guys had mentioned as issues. I ended up catching a deal on the Orion V10 17.5 combo so I hope that will be chill. I will run in the "Blinky" class which i guess is the "non-boosted" class. Trying to learn the terminology. What final ratio do you guys recommend as a starting point for stock (69/33 combo?)? Also picked up a savox 1257 for the servo. Looking at the M11x for a radio as all of the others look to futuristic for my tastes. Just have to ensure the R1 is in fact toast first. Seems everyone running shorty lipo packs is liking them so i'll probably go that route. I have some time to make my decision while I get my turbo GFX updated to charge lipos.

Haven't contributed on the site in ages.... Why did my quotes come out funny?

Last edited by damo; 06-25-2012 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:15 PM   #6647
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Quote:
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QUOTE=Raul Garcia;10893724] Why did my quotes come out funny?
You missed the first "["
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:08 PM   #6648
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
Would like to get car under roar weight limit of 1500g.
You are aware that 1499g is the roar minimum weight for 2wd buggy, cars under that are the b4/rb5 and other composite chassis cars. Which all typically run a full size lipo. Not 100% sure but I think race ready 22's with shorties weigh in at around 1550g. The 210 is not that far away from the rest of the buggies. Mine currently weighs around 1605g with the TD 30g weight, after removing a lot of the tresrey bling to shed some weight for 17.5 class.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:28 PM   #6649
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Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
You are aware that 1499g is the roar minimum weight for 2wd buggy, cars under that are the b4/rb5 and other composite chassis cars. Which all typically run a full size lipo. Not 100% sure but I think race ready 22's with shorties weigh in at around 1550g. The 210 is not that far away from the rest of the buggies. Mine currently weighs around 1605g with the TD 30g weight, after removing a lot of the tresrey bling to shed some weight for 17.5 class.
Um, ya, I'm aware of the min. weight, I just rounded up 1g, capt. semantic

Your weight sounds about right if you are using a shorty or a low mah battery. my full size Reedy 5500's weigh 319g. Just by going to a shorty, my car will come in at 1559g, get the carbon chassis, it will be 1499g, through on some ti and carbon shock towers, should get the car down to 1450-60g. NOW I can put the weights where they will help, no need to push around anymore than necessary.

So it is fairly easy to get this buggy under weight, easy, but not cheap
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:49 PM   #6650
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Um, ya, I'm aware of the min. weight, I just rounded up 1g, capt. semantic

Your weight sounds about right if you are using a shorty or a low mah battery. my full size Reedy 5500's weigh 319g. Just by going to a shorty, my car will come in at 1559g, get the carbon chassis, it will be 1499g, through on some ti and carbon shock towers, should get the car down to 1450-60g. NOW I can put the weights where they will help, no need to push around anymore than necessary.

So it is fairly easy to get this buggy under weight, easy, but not cheap
fairly easy to get it under weight?
Not really. Don't forget a carbon chassis changes the handling characteristics of the car.. often not for the better.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:49 PM   #6651
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Check out the Tresrey Blog, pics of the +8mm chassis are up! Martin did another fantastic job. Hupo is currently running this chassis
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:20 PM   #6652
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Check out the Tresrey Blog, pics of the +8mm chassis are up! Martin did another fantastic job. Hupo is currently running this chassis
Cant wait. Now I wont sleep...
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:31 PM   #6653
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Check out the Tresrey Blog, pics of the +8mm chassis are up! Martin did another fantastic job. Hupo is currently running this chassis
Really interested in the reviews on this. Also want to learn more about the molded chassis and when that will be released.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:40 PM   #6654
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Really interested in the reviews on this. Also want to learn more about the molded chassis and when that will be released.
agreed i was wondering when this was going to be released as well

there is a advantage for sure running longer wheel base
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:17 AM   #6655
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Team Durango DEX210 w/ shorty&servo
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:23 PM   #6656
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would it add weight to the back to much if the esc fan was against the rear brace then the shorty close to it with the receiver behind the servo , doesnt give me any room to move the battery but if it needed forward weight i could always add weight to the front it the shorty wasn't far enough up
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:13 PM   #6657
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would it add weight to the back to much if the esc fan was against the rear brace then the shorty close to it with the receiver behind the servo , doesnt give me any room to move the battery but if it needed forward weight i could always add weight to the front it the shorty wasn't far enough up
What is to be accomplished by that? Centering a receiver that weighs 10g max? If it were my buggy I would mount the receiver on the side with the transponder, mount the capacitor and switch on the other side and leave some room to adjust the battery fore/aft. If you find that you never move the battery after you've run the buggy, then center mount everything if you're really that concerned with it. But remember one thing: it's rc racing, not rocket science. A great driver can make an unbalanced car look great, and a poor driver can make a perfect car look like a pile of junk. Get her together and come get some laps on it with us!
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:46 PM   #6658
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What is to be accomplished by that? Centering a receiver that weighs 10g max? If it were my buggy I would mount the receiver on the side with the transponder, mount the capacitor and switch on the other side and leave some room to adjust the battery fore/aft. If you find that you never move the battery after you've run the buggy, then center mount everything if you're really that concerned with it. But remember one thing: it's rc racing, not rocket science. A great driver can make an unbalanced car look great, and a poor driver can make a perfect car look like a pile of junk. Get her together and come get some laps on it with us!
just trying to balance it right the first time i need piers to move the velcro , funny u mentioned the transponder i forgot all about it so base price for one is what $80 ? and ill hopefully be their this saturday
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:07 PM   #6659
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just trying to balance it right the first time i need piers to move the velcro , funny u mentioned the transponder i forgot all about it so base price for one is what $80 ? and ill hopefully be their this saturday
More like $100 for a transponder, unless you get the MRT, but then I think you still need a master for them to clone.

My point is there is no such thing as the "right" balance, especially in bench testing. It's a lot of trial and error, and seeing what you like and what works for how you drive. Moving the battery is usually the first change we make on Cush's buggy, and moving it just one pad in either direction makes a big difference. From the sounds of it your layout will eliminate the ability to tune that way. Leave your options open until you have nailed down something that works for you , then you can finalize everything.
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:37 PM   #6660
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Quick question on stock class gearing. Is it always better to have the smallest spur available for the car the best option?

Just picked up some RW 69 spurs and a 34 pinion, the pinion size was perfect since it's the largest I can run in between the motor screws. Will this be the ideal combo or should I order some 75 spurs too?
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