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Old 06-11-2012, 07:12 AM   #6481
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No but if you think your shocks are fine then empty the oil and clean real good then oil o ring and slide it over the shock shaft and feel how much resistance there is. All of that resistance works out to be about 10 weight in oil when your done putting your shocks together. So I am looking for a better seal like a kyosho p3 grooved o-ring or something close.
Tony- nothing wrong with the stock orings, but the spacer between them needs to be sanded a bit so that the orings don't get over compressed when the bottom cap is tightened. Remove a small amount from the spacer, use a little green slime and they will be silky smooth. Been doing this on all our TD shocks for a while now.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:44 AM   #6482
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Tony- nothing wrong with the stock orings, but the spacer between them needs to be sanded a bit so that the orings don't get over compressed when the bottom cap is tightened. Remove a small amount from the spacer, use a little green slime and they will be silky smooth. Been doing this on all our TD shocks for a while now.
I use a #32 drill bit with a hand pin drill to make my bushings suppa smooth. The Tresrey MOS shock also comes with a nice cnc'd bushing that is smoother than the stockers. Maybe there can be a option from Tresrey to purchase rebuilds.?

On another note, I ran my 210 outdoors yesterday for the first time. It was super smooth, and agressive at the same time. I qualified 5 in th A, but struggled in the main due to a bad start. Usually my luck..
But the Tresrey GT 2.0 worked flawlessly. All the eyes popped as they walk by my pit, asking what kind of B4 was that? Then I told them it was a 2013 model I was testing for TD/Tresrey.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:25 AM   #6483
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what page for ball diff break in or build sorry cant find it ive looked through over two hundred pages already , just rebuilt mine wanna make sure i break it in right
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:44 AM   #6484
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it's on the TD website.



http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...ild-guide-pt1/
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:55 AM   #6485
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
Tony- nothing wrong with the stock orings, but the spacer between them needs to be sanded a bit so that the orings don't get over compressed when the bottom cap is tightened. Remove a small amount from the spacer, use a little green slime and they will be silky smooth. Been doing this on all our TD shocks for a while now.
good tip man thanks. I will try that. I was ok with the stockers, but then I decided to put the nor tec whities, which are way way smoother than the stocks but loose a lot of oil over a run. In the end I went again back to the stockers. I can live with 10wt friction with full oil for a whole race day
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:17 PM   #6486
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I know I have asked this before, but can somebody tell me the pros and cons of the 210? Has parts support kicked up? Is there a lot of upgrades needed or is it bling? Are there any durability problems? Are there set ups available? How does this compare to the 22? I just sold my RB5 and am in the new buggy market...
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #6487
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If you can swing the black nitride shock shafts I can say without hesitation they're worth their cost for smoothness. I've had mine since they were available and there is NO signs of wear after at least 100 or more packs. No leaks and anyone that feels my shocks are always comment on how smooth they are. Stock orings, green slime,etc. Trimming of the shock internal plastic parts can prevent any binding also.
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:53 PM   #6488
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new delrin chasis from piratecomponents:

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Old 06-11-2012, 02:09 PM   #6489
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I know I have asked this before, but can somebody tell me the pros and cons of the 210? Has parts support kicked up? Is there a lot of upgrades needed or is it bling? Are there any durability problems? Are there set ups available? How does this compare to the 22? I just sold my RB5 and am in the new buggy market...
Parts availability has been almost completely turned around since the Hobbico purchase of TD. The car has two glaring weak spots- the plastic steering rack and the RF hinge pin holder, but Tresrey and a few other places offer nice bits to solve that. Couple those with CF front and rear towers and the buggy is, IMO, the most durable in the class.

Setups are becoming more readily available, but you will also find that there is a great group of guys on this thread who are willing to share info and help with any issues you may be having. It's a great buggy overall and has shown its more than capable of racing with and beating any other car out there. I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up again if I had it to do all over.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:18 PM   #6490
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Originally Posted by umm winning View Post
I know I have asked this before, but can somebody tell me the pros and cons of the 210? Has parts support kicked up? Is there a lot of upgrades needed or is it bling? Are there any durability problems? Are there set ups available? How does this compare to the 22? I just sold my RB5 and am in the new buggy market...
Most upgrades are bling, but you gotta have aluminum suspension holders (tresrey or team sr both are excellent) and if possible front bulkhead, other than that my buggys fine, just take hubs and arms to the track and your golden. I wanted to upgrade the shock towers but frankly I replace them for wear every few months so cannot afford the CFs . Have yet to break a tower though. Have stripped rear hubs, broken F/R arms thus far, but those crashes would break any competitors car too.

You can opt for the bfast diff for more time between rebuilds but you can still live with the stocker, its pretty nice box stock.

I just got ur buggy for stock duty since the rango in stock form is too heavy (~ 1620grams RTR with shorty) :P might sell the kyosho in a month once the rango plastic chassis comes up and I can get her down to 1500grams
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:21 PM   #6491
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new delrin chasis from piratecomponents:

thats one sick looking chassis!!!! any idea on pricing availability? Doesnt seem like a stateside affair
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:38 PM   #6492
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thats one sick looking chassis!!!! any idea on pricing availability? Doesnt seem like a stateside affair
At the moment it is a version thread - test, in a few weeks let's wait that this available
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:13 PM   #6493
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couldnt find the break in at all,, i have it built already wanted to double check it since i used the manual that comes with it its built right
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:38 PM   #6494
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Most upgrades are bling, but you gotta have aluminum suspension holders (tresrey or team sr both are excellent) and if possible front bulkhead, other than that my buggys fine, just take hubs and arms to the track and your golden. I wanted to upgrade the shock towers but frankly I replace them for wear every few months so cannot afford the CFs . Have yet to break a tower though. Have stripped rear hubs, broken F/R arms thus far, but those crashes would break any competitors car too.

You can opt for the bfast diff for more time between rebuilds but you can still live with the stocker, its pretty nice box stock.

I just got ur buggy for stock duty since the rango in stock form is too heavy (~ 1620grams RTR with shorty) :P might sell the kyosho in a month once the rango plastic chassis comes up and I can get her down to 1500grams
So this buggy isn't for stock...
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:33 PM   #6495
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So this buggy isn't for stock...
if you want to use it for stock then carbon fibre chassis and shock towers and other weight saving ideas as well

i believe there is a moulded 8mm+ long chassis coming out that should be a fair weight saving over the metal current chassis

there not the lightest buggies thats for sure
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