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Old 06-03-2012, 08:55 AM   #6361
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Originally Posted by AP3XMONK3Y View Post
Not that it matters..... But ithink imo. The rb5 is an overpriced b4. Whatever...... I decided to buy a 210 after trying all the buggys that r out.... N so far i havent had an issue... If u build it right,drive it right, and maintain it right just like any Rc i dont c where the problems come from
but thats my 2 cents...... No disrespect to anyone
+1
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:57 AM   #6362
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OK makes sense. Right now I'm running full stick packs or saddle packs (which are pretty much just full sticks on this car correct?).

I've been seeing some $49.00 adds for shorties here on this site and might go pick up two to play around with.

What I was amazed by was the fact that I ran my 4800mAh GensAce saddle packs for what felt like forever! I'm so used to the batteries losing power faster on my 4wd SCT. Big difference with a little 2wd buggy
Im getting about 15 minutes out of a Losi 3800C Shorty. Who says the car is heavy? This is with an Orion 17.5 stock 69/33 gearing and timing pegged all the way + advanced.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:05 AM   #6363
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post

I too thought it was odd, and still do.
It seems they used the same body as the 410 but with a longer shaft.
If your arms don't have the recess for the droop screw, they shock is too long, but if they do and you can get full droop (or take the droop screws out), they shock is then the perfect length.
The 210 I think should have had a longer body.
The piston will clear the top of the shock body with the longer shaft (will hit the shock cap on full compression).
Just put the shaft end on as far as you can, no need to have it any longer.
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Screw them all the way in to reduce rear droop. The 55mm shafts cause way too much droop and possible drive shaft binding at full compression, beleive me, I have way more then enough droop at 52mm. Im thinking about taking some out since they are going through a rebuild at OC/RC and the track will be very smooth for the first week or so. More droop for rutted bumpy tracks, less droop for smooth flowing tracks. I bought the black ones too, Im bored with gold shock shafts

Thanks fellas!
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:32 AM   #6364
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Theory on how to setup all these settings?
I just read the manual again and also spent some time on td website but did not find what I was looking for. I'd like to better understand what all these settings do and why I would make a change. It would be great to see the truck react a certain way on the track and have an idea what things to change to make it react different. Anyone know of a nice 101 site for someone looking to learn?
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:50 AM   #6365
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Originally Posted by Garnold View Post
Theory on how to setup all these settings?
I just read the manual again and also spent some time on td website but did not find what I was looking for. I'd like to better understand what all these settings do and why I would make a change. It would be great to see the truck react a certain way on the track and have an idea what things to change to make it react different. Anyone know of a nice 101 site for someone looking to learn?
Go here and down load the English version, its talks mainly on road, but the theory and principles are the same. also look for the 'RC handbook' by Scott Guyatt
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:57 PM   #6366
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Originally Posted by Raul Garcia View Post
Aloksatoor,
some good ideas there. But the plastic chassis brace is adequate. Why did you choose to remove it? My car has been on the shelf for a few weeks. I am waiting for the SP Reventon's coming out eventually. Once they are here I will be back trackside test all sorts of stuff. Youll see..
. Just got bored (no racing this weekend cos of some stupid county fair) and wanted to clean up airflow around the esc fins and make rebuilds easier than the stocker.

I also did not like the stock battery strap so cut a thing from leftover sheets of carbon (have ordered cf part for the tlr22 as Flame56 said).

Raul, have you run the extended cf chassis yet? Also anyone has their hands on a composite chassis? Did Randy get to run his yet?
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:58 PM   #6367
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Go here and down load the English version, its talks mainly on road, but the theory and principles are the same. also look for the 'RC handbook' by Scott Guyatt
+1 on that the hudy book is the best.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:25 PM   #6368
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+1 on that the hudy book is the best.
I know alot of what those settings do, but I have have now a more rounded education reading it. Seems to get the front end the way I want it, I need to lay the shocks down as much as possible. Will report results when I can.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:20 PM   #6369
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Took the car out for its maden drive today. Gotta say, this car is nice! I just went to the local bashing track. The track is in terrible condition, has not been maintained in a long while, very dry clay, with sand and silt on it. Very, very low traction. I could not keep the rear wheels from spinning, turned the punch down to 60% and the expo down as well. Still had to turn the dual rate down to 70%, too much steering!!

I've been away from off road for a bit, did a bit of on road this past winter, but lets just say the last buggy I bought was a Losi JR X2 when they first came out, so i'm a bit rusty to say the least!

Within the first 3min of running the car, I hit the back jump all wrong, car nosed strait in on the left front wheel in a hole. Once the dust settled, saw car was on its wheels, all four still attached-was expecting one or more ripped off-I drove the car over to me. Only thing that happened was the left steering turn buckle came off. Found it, popped it back on, all was good. After about 10min, I got in the grove, found the car easy to drive, and despite my rusty skills, has a flawless day with the car. Most impressed.

Was looking at the set ups on petit rc, looking for a low traction one, and noted one that is running MM4, I find that interesting. Anyone else running mid motor in low traction situations? I'm thinking it might work good, with the rear motor on the very low grip track, I found that it was OK untill the rear broke free, then it just kept going. With mid, the swing effect would be reduced, and might make the car more predictable, still would not help with forward traction, but nothing but throttle control will when the grip is very low.

Thoughts
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:15 PM   #6370
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I saw Hupos setup was MM on low grip, might have been a typo but Im thinking I might try it. I have a very soft setup on my MM buggy so if I loosen up the slipper it might be ok.

Hows the driving styles from MM to RM anyone explain it well.

Next weekend will be my 2nd race on loose dirt/gravel, the first one did not go well spinning out all the time and having to drive real slow but I do want to try it again.

Heres the track that I ran on

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcKr0...eature=related

Tips.
MM battery forward or back?
RM batt F or B
Extra weight anywhere?
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:44 AM   #6371
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
I saw Hupos setup was MM on low grip, might have been a typo but Im thinking I might try it. I have a very soft setup on my MM buggy so if I loosen up the slipper it might be ok.

Hows the driving styles from MM to RM anyone explain it well.

Next weekend will be my 2nd race on loose dirt/gravel, the first one did not go well spinning out all the time and having to drive real slow but I do want to try it again.

Heres the track that I ran on

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcKr0...eature=related

Tips.
MM battery forward or back?
RM batt F or B
Extra weight anywhere?
For Mid Motor I would recommend at another drivers observations a full pack with 1 1/2 ounce on the servo, or a brass weight, his car was dialed untilthe track dries up, If your on clay and the track dries up your in for a whole heap of trouble, back with displace, no real good way around it. Blue groove and carpet is what mid motor is used for, dirt, dry clay it will not work correctly, he rear end will step out quicker then then you can say s**t. But thats what is so great about the car is that it is a true diverse setup car where as the 22 's mid motor was more of a gimick and Losi never really persued a setup for mid motor.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:51 AM   #6372
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
I saw Hupos setup was MM on low grip, might have been a typo but Im thinking I might try it. I have a very soft setup on my MM buggy so if I loosen up the slipper it might be ok.

Hows the driving styles from MM to RM anyone explain it well.

Next weekend will be my 2nd race on loose dirt/gravel, the first one did not go well spinning out all the time and having to drive real slow but I do want to try it again.

Heres the track that I ran on

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcKr0...eature=related

Tips.
MM battery forward or back?
RM batt F or B
Extra weight anywhere?
I have spoken to Hupo, his setup was RM3, so rear motor.
On the site it is a typo
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:00 AM   #6373
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I have spoken to Hupo, his setup was RM3, so rear motor.
On the site it is a typo
I dont know if this applies to you Murky, but if you are running the stock body and wing, it doesnt apply. In my case after a month of use and abuse I finally cut out and mounted a Jconcepts wing for the the DEX and the results were less then beneficial. I took measurements, and the stock wing is almost an inch wider, and doesnt suffer from what I am going to call wing crawl, after a day of practice the jconcepts wing went almost verticle, and handling suffered greatly from this. glued back together the stock wing and I was planted again. Maybe I should get in touch with Jason to have him revamp the 6.5 downforce wing to a heavier, non-creaping up wing. It was that noticable. Especially during breaking, the closest I got to the stock wing was a B44.1 wing.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:06 AM   #6374
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any tips for a 8.5 motor on pinion and spur? sofar leisure hours raceway is the place ill be
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:21 AM   #6375
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any tips for a 8.5 motor on pinion and spur? sofar leisure hours raceway is the place ill be
If you have access to spur gears I ran as high as an 81/25 on a Reedy Sonic, Blistering fast, and temps were well below hot, talking about 130 degrees F. coming off, Speedo got a little hot, but not enough to kick in thermal shutdown. I plan on testing the 83 tooth RD spur with a 21 tooth for a bit more torque out of the motor. I was practicing with another DEX210 driver who was running a Novac Ballistic running an 87/18 combo, I couldnt keep up, Didnt have my full set of Spur gears with me, bought a 23 (the largest that would fit), and bam, there was the speed. All depends greatly on motor being used.
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