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Old 06-03-2012, 12:20 AM   #6346
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Originally Posted by SLOWINSLOWOUT View Post
Thats cool, whatever works for you Just saying, that from an engineering point of view, something that is triangulated will be more ridged than something that is boxed. The Ti may be strong, but the assembly is only as strong as the weakest part, in this case, the ball cups. The plastic OEM part, with much more surface area under a clamping load from the multiple fasteners, will be stronger in compression and tension, and much stronger in torsional loading. The ball cup link design will have no torsional strength at all due to the balls. That being said, the increased flex (torsional) should be a good thing on low traction surfaces.
Agreed on all but the torsional rigidity. I tried to twist the chassis to see if the ball cups would pop. The chassis is too narrow I think to offer any flex at all. I was thinking in fact to mount the chassis ball stud on the edge of the plastic pods where those 2 screws are (on each side to mount the bottom brace) to fix potential chassis issues. I have link rod ends instead of the ball cups for that. Will test this layout first though.

I am waiting for a carbon sheet from china, lets see if I can fashion a cleaner and better brace .
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:24 AM   #6347
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New Cream brass bulkhead installed, and a top view of my layout.
They were somehow flipped upside down when uploaded.
I'm reading about these weights a lot and not sure what they do (besides add weight). Is this to help balance the car or give you more steering?
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:04 AM   #6348
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I'm reading about these weights a lot and not sure what they do (besides add weight). Is this to help balance the car or give you more steering?
Its supposed to give you more tuning options. More weight on axles, wt forward/backward basically to suit your driving style. I personally will not buy those, cheaper and better to buy balancing weights and stick it on the chassis (you can get a lot for 2$ in harbor freight just ask for wheel balancing weights). If you are using full stick pack, then the car is already too heavy. Makes more sense to use the weights on a plastic chassis or with a shorty pack or so.
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:56 AM   #6349
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Its supposed to give you more tuning options. More weight on axles, wt forward/backward basically to suit your driving style. I personally will not buy those, cheaper and better to buy balancing weights and stick it on the chassis (you can get a lot for 2$ in harbor freight just ask for wheel balancing weights). If you are using full stick pack, then the car is already too heavy. Makes more sense to use the weights on a plastic chassis or with a shorty pack or so.
OK makes sense. Right now I'm running full stick packs or saddle packs (which are pretty much just full sticks on this car correct?).

I've been seeing some $49.00 adds for shorties here on this site and might go pick up two to play around with.

What I was amazed by was the fact that I ran my 4800mAh GensAce saddle packs for what felt like forever! I'm so used to the batteries losing power faster on my 4wd SCT. Big difference with a little 2wd buggy
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:54 AM   #6350
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Good times yest at Stateline R/C in Fremont, IN. 215 entries for the Factory Tracks Midwest series! Long day with 23 heats in each round. Ended up locking up TQ after 3 rounds of qualifying in stock buggy. Unfortunetly rains came heavy after the last heat. Race was called, but I left satisfied with a TQ.
DEX210 was dialed still dialed as the track became extremely rough and rutted towards the end of the day with. RM4 gear gave me traction others didn't. As you can see in pics track was built for 1/8.
I will post setup if anyone is interested.

No broken parts ALL day!
No popped ball cups. (kit)
No broken rear camber link mount/gearbox.
No broken front or rear kit towers.
No gear diff.
Did I mention this car is durable?




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Old 06-03-2012, 06:11 AM   #6351
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That is just killer man! I'm so glad o bought this buggy.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:25 AM   #6352
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Good times yest at Stateline R/C in Fremont, IN. 215 entries for the Factory Tracks Midwest series! Long day with 23 heats in each round. Ended up locking up TQ after 3 rounds of qualifying in stock buggy. Unfortunetly rains came heavy after the last heat. Race was called, but I left satisfied with a TQ.
DEX210 was dialed still dialed as the track became extremely rough and rutted towards the end of the day with. RM4 gear gave me traction others didn't. As you can see in pics track was built for 1/8.
I will post setup if anyone is interested.

No broken parts ALL day!
No popped ball cups. (kit)
No broken rear camber link mount/gearbox.
No broken front or rear kit towers.
No gear diff.
Did I mention this car is durable?




Looks good Dave. We need to get you in the big boy class 2wd Mod... That track would be killer with a nice SP V3.0 6.5 in it..
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:28 AM   #6353
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Aloksatoor,
some good ideas there. But the plastic chassis brace is adequate. Why did you choose to remove it? My car has been on the shelf for a few weeks. I am waiting for the SP Reventon's coming out eventually. Once they are here I will be back trackside test all sorts of stuff. Youll see..
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:15 AM   #6354
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Need help- when the car is on the ground and I pull the throttle, the car squeal as if the ball diff is slipping the car won't move at all. The motor and spur gear are spinning just fine. When I lift the wheels off the ground, the wheels/tires spin?

I've tried to tighten and lossen the diff...neither works, what could be the problem?
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:15 AM   #6355
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Has anyone run orion 5500 carbon pro's with this car? Or is it really worth shelling out the cash for some shorties?
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:35 AM   #6356
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What's the consensus on the longer rear shock shafts? The 210 is the only kit that comes with 55mm rears and the rest,including the DESC410R come with the 52mm shafts stock. I have some black Ti 52mm rear shafts on hand, do I tighten the shock ends all the way in or back out around 3mm to keep the same length as the stockers?
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:11 AM   #6357
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Originally Posted by GuiltyByAssoc View Post
Need help- when the car is on the ground and I pull the throttle, the car squeal as if the ball diff is slipping the car won't move at all. The motor and spur gear are spinning just fine. When I lift the wheels off the ground, the wheels/tires spin?

I've tried to tighten and lossen the diff...neither works, what could be the problem?

The circlip in the diff could have come out possibly.
Could also be the slipper.

I have read (back a few pages I think) that apparently something wears on the top shaft which causes a similar issue, no idea what it is that supposedly wears though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
What's the consensus on the longer rear shock shafts? The 210 is the only kit that comes with 55mm rears and the rest,including the DESC410R come with the 52mm shafts stock. I have some black Ti 52mm rear shafts on hand, do I tighten the shock ends all the way in or back out around 3mm to keep the same length as the stockers?
I asked this question on another forum (and here aswell, got no replies though).

I too thought it was odd, and still do.
It seems they used the same body as the 410 but with a longer shaft.
If your arms don't have the recess for the droop screw, they shock is too long, but if they do and you can get full droop (or take the droop screws out), they shock is then the perfect length.
The 210 I think should have had a longer body.
The piston will clear the top of the shock body with the longer shaft (will hit the shock cap on full compression).
Just put the shaft end on as far as you can, no need to have it any longer.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:26 AM   #6358
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Agreed on all but the torsional rigidity. I tried to twist the chassis to see if the ball cups would pop. The chassis is too narrow I think to offer any flex at all. I was thinking in fact to mount the chassis ball stud on the edge of the plastic pods where those 2 screws are (on each side to mount the bottom brace) to fix potential chassis issues. I have link rod ends instead of the ball cups for that. Will test this layout first though.

I am waiting for a carbon sheet from china, lets see if I can fashion a cleaner and better brace .
Its just theory based on observation. Testing will tell. Do you know about this place for carbon sheets? Ive not ordered from them, but they are in the US, prices good, and product is good. LINK
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:42 AM   #6359
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Good times yest at Stateline R/C in Fremont, IN. 215 entries for the Factory Tracks Midwest series! Long day with 23 heats in each round. Ended up locking up TQ after 3 rounds of qualifying in stock buggy. Unfortunetly rains came heavy after the last heat. Race was called, but I left satisfied with a TQ.
DEX210 was dialed still dialed as the track became extremely rough and rutted towards the end of the day with. RM4 gear gave me traction others didn't. As you can see in pics track was built for 1/8.
I will post setup if anyone is interested.

No broken parts ALL day!
No popped ball cups. (kit)
No broken rear camber link mount/gearbox.
No broken front or rear kit towers.
No gear diff.
Did I mention this car is durable?




Hells yeah it is durable. I love mine and will not drive anything else. As soon as the ST isa released im on that as well. Cannot wait to have a full Durango fleet, Just wish 4 wheel drive buggy was popular here as I have seen a few 410's and they look dialed as well. Will not drive Short Bus. Definately post a setup, everyone should, All of the setup sheets we have apart from mine are mostly european, and mostly mod. Building a car for stock (my class) is very different then building a car for mod. Especially post your gearing setup, im sure it would be greatly appreciated for those struggling with gearing.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:49 AM   #6360
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
What's the consensus on the longer rear shock shafts? The 210 is the only kit that comes with 55mm rears and the rest,including the DESC410R come with the 52mm shafts stock. I have some black Ti 52mm rear shafts on hand, do I tighten the shock ends all the way in or back out around 3mm to keep the same length as the stockers?
Screw them all the way in to reduce rear droop. The 55mm shafts cause way too much droop and possible drive shaft binding at full compression, beleive me, I have way more then enough droop at 52mm. Im thinking about taking some out since they are going through a rebuild at OC/RC and the track will be very smooth for the first week or so. More droop for rutted bumpy tracks, less droop for smooth flowing tracks. I bought the black ones too, Im bored with gold shock shafts
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