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Old 05-27-2012, 04:51 PM   #6226
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Could someone tell were can i get anodize washers for the Durango and other cars i have other than Tes.
Losi makes metric washers, not sure they are the same size as the Durango washers. The plastic ones I have from Losi work well though. Kyosho would work too if you wanted to spend $100.00 on a full set lol....
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:56 PM   #6227
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Post 210 hop ups

Hi,

I plan on ordering a 210 in a few weeks and was wondering what are specific things I need to watch out for during the build? Also, are there any modifications needed? I did see the build tips on the TD site and have been going through pages for hours looking for tips thanks for the help!
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:58 PM   #6228
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Hi,

I plan on ordering a 210 in a few weeks and was wondering what are specific things I need to watch out for during the build? Also, are there any modifications needed? I did see the build tips on the TD site and have been going through pages for hours looking for tips thanks for the help!
Jason
Download the manual on the website. The manual that comes with the car has alot of errors. Other then that you should be ok. Remember to pick up some circlip (snap ring pliers) before you do the diff, and watch the video carefully. It should go fairly smoothly for you if you do those two things.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:00 PM   #6229
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Default Gear diff

I just ordered the gear diff kit. What's the consensus as compared to the ball diff. ?

Last edited by meddman; 05-27-2012 at 09:01 PM. Reason: Mistake
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:05 PM   #6230
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Also when using th gear diff, I'm assuming you lock down he slipper?
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:22 PM   #6231
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Also when using th gear diff, I'm assuming you lock down he slipper?
No mate the slipper is not locked down at all.

It's designed to help get traction by reducing the power to the rear wheels

Otherwise you will wheel stand everywhere
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:27 PM   #6232
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Download the manual on the website. The manual that comes with the car has alot of errors. Other then that you should be ok. Remember to pick up some circlip (snap ring pliers) before you do the diff, and watch the video carefully. It should go fairly smoothly for you if you do those two things.
Cool, thanks man.
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:40 PM   #6233
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Just finished up with my build. Gotta say, this car is notfor the first time builder! It all went well, but gotta be competent at building car with this one. As has been stated, the printed manual has some errors in it, use the pdf.

The car is very well thought out and engineered, but the execution did leave a bit to be desired. The fit of all the parts of the front end and pods that all come together to form the tub/chassis is tight, I found that I had to leave all the screws loose, and then flex the chassis plate to get them all to fit together. Once together, tighten all the screws, and your golden, nice tight ridged chassis.

I did have some missing screws in my kit as well, kinda disappointing to say the least. Good this there is a bag with 'spares' in it, needed the spares for first's.

The other issue I had was with the shocks. first off, the shafts were rusted!!! The other issue is with the o-rings that seal the top caps, they pop out if you over tighten the caps, but, if you just snug the caps tight, when turning the spring adjusters, the shock body can turn, thuse causing the o-ring to pop out or the cap to be loose. Either way, the result is a leak. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? but for the life of me, I cannot get the cap on tight without the o-ring popping out!

Other than that, the car looks and feels fantastic! got a few Tresery bits coming, may change up the ball cups, but it does look to be a winner.

If anyone has any advice on the shock deal, i'm all ears.

Some pic's;









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Old 05-27-2012, 10:49 PM   #6234
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Well thats the first time I've seen rusty shock shafts, disappointing to say the least.. I have had similar arguments with the shock cap orings, and for me they seem to go better the less oil they have on them, others say oil them up, but they worked better dry. I have since taken an xacto knife to the caps, and created a slight bevel where the cap and oring meet, and that seems to have all but cured the issue for me..
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:08 PM   #6235
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Ya, the shafts kinda through me for sure, they didnt look too bad when I was putting them together, figured it was some tarnish or some thing and would clean off with some oil, wrong!! Ended up chucking them in the drill and polishing with some compound, they are good now, but not some thing I thought I'd be doing to new parts.

I have some large diameter counter sinking bits, might see if one of those would work to put a shampfer on the inside of the caps. The cap to body seal is a bad design, should have better provision for the o-ring to be captured.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:26 AM   #6236
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For the cap o-ring, all you have to do is to trim the cap a little, then your problem will go away. Just trim it at a 45 degrees angle, and trim it carefully.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:35 AM   #6237
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For the cap o-ring, all you have to do is to trim the cap a little, then your problem will go away. Just trim it at a 45 degrees angle, and trim it carefully.
+1 then it works fine. Is it rust or a bad MOS coating?
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:27 AM   #6238
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Default My new addition....

Just thought I'd share the new addition to my RC family.



Really enjoyed the build, except I built it whilst away from home and I forgot my PDF manual. The supplied one is full of errors, but I got by.

Hope image link works, I'm doing this from my iPhone.

Cheers

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Old 05-28-2012, 07:50 AM   #6239
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+1 then it works fine. Is it rust or a bad MOS coating?
Looks like the kit has been sitting and some type of manufacturing oil got on the shafts and rusted them out. Since they are not Ti, They should be pretty prone to rust. Glad I went with the black Ti Shock shafts.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:29 AM   #6240
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Any of you using the gear diff? If so like it? How oes it compare to ball diff?
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